#46
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Initial cleaning
I just stripped down a new chain after its 100 mile breakin using a modified procedure that a fellow on another forum claims is faster and less wasteful solvent-wise.
I have two wide plastic containers (old Costco cashew jars) with 3-4 oz coleman fuel in them. The first container is the dirty one for the initial soak. The second one is the clean one, for the final rinse. After the final rinse, it goes into the crockpot of wax. I have done 4 chains so far in the same solutions. The first container looks nasty to be honest but the rinse one isn't too bad. On the next chain, I plan to switch and fill a new clean rinse container. In the time it took to change two tires and put new latex tubes into my 650B tired bike, the chain was done. I am slow changing tires these days, so, it might have been 30 minutes. |
#47
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Two questions please:
- Does the rinse container become the next dirty container, and the dirty solvent is tossed each time? Am I understanding that you are doing 4 chains in the same two containers? - Please say more about the 100 mile break-in, and why you strip it after that distance. Thank you Quote:
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#48
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#49
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I have had 4 rinses in my dirty container and 4 rinses in my clean container. I have not replaced either, yet. I am going to get rid of the dirty rinse and use the "clean" one as the dirty. So, I will be starting with a new "clean" rinse. I should be able to make it thru winter, all my chains are pretty new and recently waxed. I also skipped the alcohol as the last step that many use to get it squeaky clean. I listened to some guy on another forum who always seems to know chemistry or purports to. So far, I cannot tell any difference, the chain is quiet and seems low friction. |
#50
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Because it collects fine sand and dirt like a magnet and grinds away the plates and pins very quickly.
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#51
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Interesting--I have been doing a version of that cleaning procedure, but reapplying an oil based lube. Not sure I'm ready for waxing since I no longer ride in the rain if I can possibly avoid it...
A friendly reminder--most areas have a hazardous waste drop off site--make sure to save and drop off used solvents. I just use the orange juice bottles--and mark them--mixed solvents seem to be fine. The alcohol is less toxic since it breaks down pretty quickly, but if I'm doing a bunch of refinishing I will bottle that and drop it off too. If you are frugal, you can also use Melita filters and filter your dirty solvent--it will catch all the sludge and particles and then it can be re-used for the 'first clean' step. |
#52
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All lubes will do that- wax too. Shimano states to leave that factory lube on, it prolongs the life of the chain-most lubes don’t penetrate between them plates due to tight tolerances.
Last edited by Mikej; 11-06-2021 at 11:47 AM. |
#53
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As noted I am at 1500km (now 1700km) per chain with no wear, riding in all sorts of conditions. Previously a chain would have been in the bin by now as it’s still wet and gritty down here. |
#54
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Lube obviously penetrates into the pins and plate area. |
#55
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Zero friction is not exactly a scientific operation. It seems a sample size of 1 is what they base their findings with. To each his own.
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#56
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#57
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I answered the question. Anyone who keeps the factory lube on is a rube. |
#58
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Maybe I just dont know what a worn chain sounds/feels like. Before switching to Silca SS wax, i used NFS. I just buy a new chain each spring, putting about 6 to 7 thousand miles on it each year with lube. all this talk of 1 to 2 kilometers (or is it miles) is confounding to me.
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#59
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#60
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If you want to believe what you believe that’s fine, I’m not going to argue with you, just setting the record straight for anyone reading but not commenting. |
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