Speedplay: busted again

[azrider]

Originally Posted by oldguy00

Weird, add me to the list of folks who have been using these for 10+ years and I've never had one break!

Originally Posted by gbcoupe

20 or so years for me on Zero's. I've never broken one.

Originally Posted by cmbicycles

20+ years on X2s and never had a spring break.

Originally Posted by muttley

Another X/2 rider (20+ years) that has never broken a spring.

Another 15+ year Zero user and no broken springs.........hmmmmm..........

[bshell]

20 years on Zeros w/ no broken springs...but I would love to find some replacement pedal bodies (new or vgc).

[schwa86]

About 15 years on light action with no broken springs. One wonders whether it would be worth removing the spring from one of the knockoffs and trying it.

[OldCrank]

I just joined the Broken Clip club.
6 seasons plus trainer, on a pair of used cleats, can't complain.

Maybe I was pulling up a little and not just swinging sideways?

I see a bunch of copies on Amazon for $20 to 30,
has anybody tried them?

[thegunner]

Originally Posted by OldCrank

I just joined the Broken Clip club.
6 seasons plus trainer, on a pair of used cleats, can't complain.

Maybe I was pulling up a little and not just swinging sideways?

I see a bunch of copies on Amazon for $20 to 30,
has anybody tried them?

don't use them outside, they break randomly. on the trainer though? go nuts.

[CAAD]

Do you clean them regularly and lube them? I use the Speedplay finishline spray lube. Never any issues.

[verbs4us]

Always walk with cleat covers, and use a wax-based lube.

[berserk87]

Originally Posted by CAAD

Do you clean them regularly and lube them? I use the Speedplay finishline spray lube. Never any issues.

I lube mine before every ride. Still break them like it's a side hobby.

[Wakatel_Luum]

I roe Speedplay for years, my advice buy some Time Pro's they're a better pedal/cleat system.

[retrofit]

Put me in the group of never having broken a c-spring.

That said, pm a shipping address and I send you a couple that I have in the parts bin.

Stan

[oldpotatoe]

Think I've mentioned this but the cleat part of SP, the part with the spring, MUST be very flat. That's why the cleats come with a bundle of shims for the base plate, so the base plate can conform to the bottom the shoe and the cleat part can be flat, flat.

[jc031699]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Think I've mentioned this but the cleat part of SP, the part with the spring, MUST be very flat. That's why the cleats come with a bundle of shims for the base plate, so the base plate can conform to the bottom the shoe and the cleat part can be flat, flat.

Echoing Peter, my understanding is that there should be no daylight, ZERO, between the cleat and the sole before the first set of adapter screws are placed (4Nm).

The second set of outer screws should then be placed and advanced. I say advanced because that is the other part of this, they have a very specific torque spec that is NOT as tight as I can make it (like I do for other pedals’ cleats). The locking heads (radial grooves on the tapered flare of the screwhead) and the thread lock on their screws prevent loosening which would otherwise occur. In their instructions I believe it says turn until you feel two “clicks” from the grooves engaging. (I just checked, the latest says a quarter turn after you feel one click, or 2.5N.) Or use a tiny torque wrench. To clarify, this is for the screws that hold the outermost plate and spring in place.

https://www.wahoofitness.com/media/d...structions.pdf

Pedantic, I know, but it ain’t rocket science.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Nessism]

I've been using X2's since the solid aluminum puck days. After the spring wire gets a significant flat spot worn in them I replace the wire. They used to sell just the wire and I stocked up. My supplies are almost all gone now though. It sucks that Wahoo doesn't support the older products.

[batman1425]

Originally Posted by jc031699

Echoing Peter, my understanding is that there should be no daylight, ZERO, between the cleat and the sole before the first set of adapter screws are placed (4Nm).

The second set of outer screws should then be placed and advanced. I say advanced because that is the other part of this, they have a very specific torque spec that is NOT as tight as I can make it (like I do for other pedals’ cleats). The locking heads (radial grooves on the tapered flare of the screwhead) and the thread lock on their screws prevent loosening which would otherwise occur. In their instructions I believe it says turn until you feel two “clicks” from the grooves engaging. (I just checked, the latest says a quarter turn after you feel one click, or 2.5N.) Or use a tiny torque wrench. To clarify, this is for the screws that hold the outermost plate and spring in place.

This^. The base that you mount to the shoe must make a flat surface for the spring retention portion to mount to. If it isn't, or if you tighten the screws too much it can warp the spring carrier and cause the spring to bind. In some cases, this can make it near impossible to unclip.

Overtightening can also cause the spring to wear prematurely, assuming it isn't so tight to cause binding.

[dgauthier]

Verbs4us, perhaps try a pedal system that has cleats with no moving parts.

With all due respect, the cleat in your photo has seen a hard life! You need cleats that are simple, with all the complexity in the pedal. Speedplay's are exactly the opposite of this.

Shimano, Time, and Look are all very appealing mainstream pedal systems with cleats that are chunks of metal and plastic with nothing to go wrong.