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  #1  
Old 05-17-2019, 05:26 PM
guylimey guylimey is offline
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Wliier Cento Uno rear brake cable - threading through TT

Wliier Cento Uno rear brake cable - threading through TT - any ideas anyone (the plastic sleeving that was there at manufacture is no longer there and there is no internal tubing in the TT to guide either the casing or just the inner wire)? I have tried cotton thread and a vacuum cleaner, cotton thread with a needle and a magnet and both without success Too frustrated to continue at this point and looking for ideas/help. Thank you.

Last edited by guylimey; 05-17-2019 at 06:17 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-17-2019, 05:32 PM
bigbill bigbill is online now
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I can't tell by the picture, but if your putting housing through the top tube, I've had luck running a bare cable through then pushing housing down the cable, pull the cable out, and route your new cable through.
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  #3  
Old 05-17-2019, 08:20 PM
jemdet jemdet is offline
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Bare cable, put a kink at the end of the cable. You can spin it from the other end. Once the cable's in place, run the housing over it. Use grease or lube at entry ports
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  #4  
Old 05-17-2019, 09:20 PM
dustyrider dustyrider is offline
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Cable is also steel so you can use a magnet, too! Have fun.
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  #5  
Old 05-18-2019, 08:41 AM
Dave Dave is offline
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Most cables are stainless steel, so a magnet won't work. Only the cheap zinc coated cables are steel.

Park tool has a video showing their cable routing tools. I saw nothing in it that would be of value for my Colnago frame.

I've been able to use a length of small welding rod, under 1/16", and got it to go through after enough tries.

The key is to never lose the pathway. I use heat shrink tubing to attach a guide cable to the old cable before removing it, to retain the pathway.
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  #6  
Old 05-18-2019, 09:22 AM
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YesNdeed YesNdeed is offline
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Same frame, same problem. The fine thread/vacuum trick worked after a bunch of tries, and I seem to recall capping off other air inlets with my hand/fingers which gave the extra pull on the thread, making the difference. The point is to jostle and manipulate air flow a bit, and that directed the thread out of the suctioning hole. Worth mentioning, the smallest possible vacuum attachment concentrates the suction through the cable housing hole. And of course a punching bag within reach to keep from throwing the frame across the room might be helpful too .

Quote:
Originally Posted by guylimey View Post
(the plastic sleeving that was there at manufacture is no longer there and there is no internal tubing in the TT to guide either the casing or just the inner wire)
Was it ever there? I bought my 2010 Cento1 used, but the only plastic cable routing line it had was at the chain-stay. That line was effected after a drive-side chain-stay carbon repair job, so I removed it. Talk about a pain! I gave up and the cable is exposed. Works fine, no one besides me knows it's like that.

Last edited by YesNdeed; 05-18-2019 at 10:58 AM.
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  #7  
Old 05-18-2019, 11:15 AM
Tommasini53 Tommasini53 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustyrider View Post
Cable is also steel so you can use a magnet, too! Have fun.
+1..magnet.
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  #8  
Old 05-18-2019, 06:47 PM
guylimey guylimey is offline
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Wliier Cento Uno rear brake cable - threading through TT

Thanks for all the advice. After a lot or cursing and swearing, 6 aspirins and gallons of tea later I finally got it! Removed the fork to find whole front of frame open so with a needle and thread and stainless steel aircraft lockwire I managed to get a plastic sleeve through the TT and this in turn enabled me to pass the brake with through. Gosh, what a pain in the a--.
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  #9  
Old 05-18-2019, 06:58 PM
Polyglot Polyglot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guylimey View Post
Thanks for all the advice. After a lot or cursing and swearing, 6 aspirins and gallons of tea later I finally got it! Removed the fork to find whole front of frame open so with a needle and thread and stainless steel aircraft lockwire I managed to get a plastic sleeve through the TT and this in turn enabled me to pass the brake with through. Gosh, what a pain in the a--.
I too had the same exact issues with a Wilier Cento. The only more frustrating bike that I ever had to deal with was a Chesini will fully internal cabling. WHY?
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  #10  
Old 05-18-2019, 07:15 PM
dustyrider dustyrider is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guylimey View Post
Thanks for all the advice. After a lot or cursing and swearing, 6 aspirins and gallons of tea later I finally got it! Removed the fork to find whole front of frame open so with a needle and thread and stainless steel aircraft lockwire I managed to get a plastic sleeve through the TT and this in turn enabled me to pass the brake with through. Gosh, what a pain in the a--.
Bikes!
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  #11  
Old 05-18-2019, 10:15 PM
ultraman6970 ultraman6970 is offline
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Congrats OP, in steel is piece of cake compared with modern carbon bikes.... now remember all the time before putting the cable out to pass a long piece of cable inner casing then remove the cable leavigng the inner casing in place.
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  #12  
Old 05-19-2019, 09:14 PM
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YesNdeed YesNdeed is offline
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May your efforts be rewarded with supreme riding pleasure, Guy pal!
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  #13  
Old 05-20-2019, 02:10 AM
purplecu22 purplecu22 is offline
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internal routing

I feel your pain. My wife has a kestrel. It could take hours to route the cable if the Plastic sleeve were taken out or fell out. They are used to route the cable. No internal guides. I bought one of these worth the money.

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/p...4aAkCkEALw_wcB
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