OT OBD2 scanner

[ScottW]

I use this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ELM327-Blue...d/132147449025

Not sure if that's the exact same vendor I bought mine from, but it's the same model. About $10 and has worked fine on my Subaru and Acura. Use it with the free version of the Torque app for Android, and it should cover most of the basic diagnostic needs for shade tree home mechanics. Reads codes (along with some basic info on what they mean), clears codes, can monitor several engine parameters in real time, etc.

[Ken Robb]

In some cars there are two different check engine warnings. One is yellow and means look into this problem sooner rather than later and the red one means STOP DRIVING and SHUT OFF THE ENGINE! Jim might be fine driving a little bit for a diagnosis.

As already suggested a loose or faulty gas cap is often to blame as is a dipstick not fully inserted for yellow codes.

I didn't know we could buy useful scanners so cheaply. As a car geek I might "NEED" one.

[kramnnim]

I have this one, works fine. https://www.amazon.com/U480-Engine-S.../dp/B000LEPT5G

[choke]

I've been using an OBDLink MX for a couple of years now....I'm very happy with it.

http://www.obdlink.com/mxp/

[Ralph]

In our area....any Autozone store will read the codes free. And if a simple fix...they might fix it for you.

[paredown]

Originally Posted by ScottW

I use this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ELM327-Blue...d/132147449025

Not sure if that's the exact same vendor I bought mine from, but it's the same model. About $10 and has worked fine on my Subaru and Acura. Use it with the free version of the Torque app for Android, and it should cover most of the basic diagnostic needs for shade tree home mechanics. Reads codes (along with some basic info on what they mean), clears codes, can monitor several engine parameters in real time, etc.

I use the same one--these super cheap ones are all produced with pirated Elm 327 chip sets, so their functionality is pretty limited. I have used it for simple diagnostics and code resets on both my Tundra and our late Volvo V70--things like the O2 sensor related codes (emissions) that are part of the universal implementation.

As I understand it, the OBD-II diagnostics are written in such a way that the first set of data registers are implemented the same on all vehicles--and that's what the cheap scanners can read (and often reset).

Then there is a set of extended registers where each manufacturer implements as they see fit, so often anything in those registers requires a manufacturer's specific device to reset (and often even to read them). So all the VW guys buy the aftermarket VCDS from Ross Tech (VW-Audi) for full functionality, the Volvo guys are buying pirated copies of the Volvo specific device (name escapes me), and the Mercedes people have to use the dealer (and the Bosch 'Hammer') that I don't think has been pirated.

Pre OBD-II--someone mentioned light sequences and the rest--those were all supplanted/replaced by OBD-II.

[jimcav]

i got the link scanner, code was P2004, not serious, IMRC control valve stuck open on bank 1
Quick web search showed the plastic bushings crack and fall off, the the control linkage arm pops off. I opened my hood and sure enough, the bushing is gone and the arm is free of the bracket. what is really weird is the linkage arm to the other bank is not even there, and looks like it hasn't been in a long time. I went back into our service records and there was a comment about the linkage missing and "check TSB?" so it has run for years with no issue with one bank of the engine not having that valve close ever, and now the other is in "open", so i assume all it does is waste fuel at lower rpms etc. I'll order the bushing--it seems easy to do myself...

[AngryScientist]

great. glad that worked out for you jim.

a cheap code scanner is a must have if you keep cars on the road for a while.

[ScottW]

Originally Posted by jimcav

...so i assume all it does is waste fuel at lower rpms etc...

Theoretically it's proper function is the opposite of that. Intake runner flappers are called different things by different manufacturers but their purpose is to induce air turbulence in the intake runners, which helps to more completely atomize the fuel (on port injected engines) so the engine runs more efficiently and/or smoothly at lower rpms and lower intake air temperatures. If you were to notice symptoms it would likely be at low loads or idle, particularly on cold starts in winter. Or you may notice nothing, depending.

The flip side to those flappers is even when they're fully open, there's still a metal rod and a small cross-section of the flapper sitting in the intake runners. On track cars or dyno queens, some people surgically remove that slight restriction from the intake to pick up the few extra hp on the top end.

[likebikes]

the cheap ones from walmart are fine