tight chainstay clearance on my lynskey Ti allroad!

[Hellgate]

Put a frame alignment tool on it. That's pretty jacked up. It should be spot on.

[Peter P.]

I'll add my 2 cents.

The frame will work with cranks with wider Q-factors.

[madsciencenow]

+1 for showing Lynskey a pic. Something seems wrong. I hope a stages PM wasn’t in the plans?


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[R3awak3n]

I don't think frame is out of wack but your campy is not going to work. I had the same problem on my OPEN, campy crank would not fit. drive side ok and NDS it was exactly like that. And of course with campy you are kinda SOL since you can't put spacers or anything like that.

[wallymann]

Originally Posted by robt57

Lets discount the frame alignment angle. Just wide there for the tire clearance/design.

concur.

i reached out to lynskey.

[Pegoready]

Guys, frame alignment and how close the cranks pass the chainstays are two completely separate things.

Clearly, they're using an asymmetric rear end evidenced by the yolk on the driveside and the round tubing on the non-driveside. You'll get different crank arm clearance visually.

Campy cranks have notoriously narrow Q-factors. My guess is they'll say the frame is aligned buy not specifically designed for Campy and to use a Shimano or SRAM crank for better results.

Who uses Campy on an all road bike anyway? Didn't they create the H11 group specifically to address this issue?

[robt57]

>>>To achieve a harmonious chain line with disc-equipped wheels, Campy pushes out the H11 Cassette and Crankset by 2.5-millimeters each to accommodate the wider spacing of 12 x 142mm rear axles.<<<

And UT too.

Originally Posted by Pegoready

Guys, frame alignment and how close the cranks pass the chainstays are two completely separate things.

Clearly, they're using an asymmetric rear end evidenced by the yolk on the driveside and the round tubing on the non-driveside. You'll get different crank arm clearance visually.

Campy cranks have notoriously narrow Q-factors. My guess is they'll say the frame is aligned buy not specifically designed for Campy and to use a Shimano or SRAM crank for better results.

Who uses Campy on an all road bike anyway? Didn't they create the H11 group specifically to address this issue?

[ntb1001]

I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s just a Campy issue.
I used a Dura Ace direct mount under BB caliper on my Parlee and my Campy crank wouldn’t clear the caliper arm.
My problem was easily fixed with a mini grinder and shaved a bit off the outside of brake caliper arm just enough for crank arm to clear.


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[commonguy001]

I had an Urbano which used the same design.
Shimano cranks were tight enough that you couldn’t run a Stages but there was more clearance than that campy crank and plenty for everyday use. I swap those to a Praxis and had plenty of room for a 4iiii PM.

If you have access to something Praxis or Shimano I’d try to put them on before you determine it’s not square.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Hellgate

Put a frame alignment tool on it. That's pretty jacked up. It should be spot on.

Gotta agree..with Campag cranks(or any crank) installed correctly, the distances from the chainstays, left and right, 'should' be the same. As long as the chainstays are 'bent' and shaped, the same. Usually, on some 'cross'/dirt frames, that rely on 135mm spacing, the RH side, chainrings or crank arm, is too close but left side is unusual.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by R3awak3n

I don't think frame is out of wack but your campy is not going to work. I had the same problem on my OPEN, campy crank would not fit. drive side ok and NDS it was exactly like that. And of course with campy you are kinda SOL since you can't put spacers or anything like that.

Can't really put spacers on most outboard bearing cranks these days.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by ntb1001

I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s just a Campy issue.
I used a Dura Ace direct mount under BB caliper on my Parlee and my Campy crank wouldn’t clear the caliper arm.
My problem was easily fixed with a mini grinder and shaved a bit off the outside of brake caliper arm just enough for crank arm to clear.


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Well, Campag cranks are designed for essentially road bikes with the brake caliper up on the seat stays or for disc. An under BB, direct mount, DA brake on a Parlee..I wouldn't say that's a 'Campy issue'..Yes some cranks with thinner arms may work better but..I built a 'Boardman' tri bike with sram and under BB brake and NO crank worked..it was a frame design issue, not a crank issue.

[wallymann]

Originally Posted by R3awak3n

I don't think frame is out of wack but your campy is not going to work. I had the same problem on my OPEN, campy crank would not fit. drive side ok and NDS it was exactly like that. And of course with campy you are kinda SOL since you can't put spacers or anything like that.

my recollection is that the lower-tier solid-core UT carbon cranks like chorus/athena/centaur dont have that inward/medial bulge on the ND crankarm. so i'll be searching for a compact version of them!

EDIT: i just did a quick comparo between my records and chorus UTs and the medial ND bulge is definitely in a different, more chainstay-friendly location!

[R3awak3n]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Can't really put spacers on most outboard bearing cranks these days.

You are right. I guess I have been used to 30mm cranks with a long spindle that require spacers.

Originally Posted by wallymann

my recollection is that the lower-tier solid-core UT carbon cranks like athena/centaur dont have that inward/medial bulge on the ND crankarm. so i'll be searching for a compact version of them!

EDIT: i just did a quick comparo between my records and chorus UTs and the medial ND bulge is definitely in a different, more chainstay-friendly location!

I tried 2 cranks on my bike, a 4 arm chorus (2015+ but no ho) and a 5 arm super record. Neither fit. Looking by your pictures though, looks like the chorus would work.

[d_douglas]

Why do t you just throw that Chorus one on the Lynskey to test your theory? I am surprised how different the two look!