#16
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I have looked for ANY place to plug that in. Now I suppose I can pull the seat post and dig out the battery, but does anyone have a suggestion on how to install something to charge the battery outside of the bike? If so, what do I need. This is the only Di2 I have or will have. I have EPS V3 and not only was it a sinch to install, set up, and charge. Shimano has never given me fits and is wicked easy to make work. I just don't know what else I need if in fact the seller said this was it. Thanks for all help though if I get frustrated, run over the bike and forget to show appreciation. |
#17
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#18
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Can't rule out anything until you rule out everything I always say.
Did you get to ride it at all yet I guess is a good question? In shipping a tight wire and a loose battery could certainly = the plug popping out of the battery. Quote:
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This foot tastes terrible! |
#19
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I HOPE it is just a loose wire somewhere or then I have a bike that is useless until I spend more money to just make it work. Oh goody. |
#20
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Well, hope may not be a useful as help via this process.
Pull the seatpost and make sure the battery is in fact plugged in. While you have it in your hand take a pic and/or look ate the PN cast into it. Still betting BTR2. Could also be a DIY Battery solution too and not an actual Shimano battery. I hate to suggest it, but the DIY charging solution may what be what bricked it. It sounds bricked certainly. Have you eMailed who you got it form to be sure you implemented the charge as intended?? I am stuck on the red molex on your charger and what DIY shenanigans I have seen googling for Di2 hacks for my own shenanigans.....
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This foot tastes terrible! |
#21
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Oh goody nothing as exciting as this type of headache. |
#22
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I too am curious on how this was modified to get this custom setup to work. If you can get the seller to provide more details I'd like to know what was put into it.
Other alternative is to find a EW90 junction (3 or 5 port) and you might need a couple of Di2 wires though to connect to your shifters and then bridge the connection to the battery/derailleurs. You would still need once of those BCR2 chargers too. But if the system if bricked then you may need to take it in for a diagnostic (or find somebody locally to who has the connection/diagnostic tool). While the BCR2 can serve as a connection tool for basic diagnostics it doesn't have the full functionality as the actual diagnostic tool (the Shimano SM-PCE1 interface...which most people don't need). |
#23
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Is it of the 10s or 11s cobbled variety. No negative connotation.
I started my Di2 life a few years back with a $99.00 pair of Jensen USA ST-6770 shipped. Once you learn it well, Shimano adds new things to learn too. Cumpuuters.. Zed.
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This foot tastes terrible! |
#24
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What is bricked? Does this mean the "system" needs a reboot or update?
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#25
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Lord knows what the firmware versions are among the components. Which is why I asked if 10 speed still. I actually have a laptop off the net to keep the e-tube software from updates or me allowing a firmware update to a part to occur on a bike with 10 speed on it still. I am about to do my first DIY battery actually, for an adventure bike that may get way out occasionally. 4xmah than orig batts. yada. Did yours start showing signs it needed recharge? And do you know what those indicators are? Both in system behavior and LED readout modes on your A junction and how to interpret?
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This foot tastes terrible! Last edited by robt57; 02-26-2020 at 01:28 PM. |
#26
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That charger looks like one from a guy that assembled internal batteries years ago before the Shimano internal system was launched.
Called himself Di2DIY or DIYDi2 on eBay... Looks like there was a facebook page but it is pretty dormant. https://www.facebook.com/Di2SeatPostBatteryKits Good luck! |
#27
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#28
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Nothing wrong with that, but it will present some possible unexpected challenges once plugged into a SM-PCE1 to do diagnostics. Your system is pretty far away to being able to connect to e-tube/android. I'd add sudden death without loosing first the systems ability to auto trim FD, then stop shifting RD after that... In my experience this happens from a poor battery, a RD jammed into recovery mode, or a failed connection point. Or a crashed/bent RD that is fighting the servo continually. I am sure there are more/other reasons, just not in my experience, yet.
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This foot tastes terrible! Last edited by robt57; 02-26-2020 at 01:39 PM. |
#29
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ok, here is the cluster f$%^k that I was surprised with.
I was able to remove the battery and charge (I hope) it via the little red thing. Exposed wire, poop storm of some sort in the ST. Oh well, give it some time to charge and just deal with it I suppose. https://photos.app.goo.gl/xpbCYZWM4KtSKYfP9 Last edited by Dave B; 02-26-2020 at 04:05 PM. |
#30
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Photos aren't available, but there was an ebay seller selling conversion kits for first gen di2 stuff to mount internally. It was all fab'd, including the charger and battery.
In theory, you should be able to charge through a shifter port, assuming that's how the charger is set up and the connector is fully engaged. But the whole setup is bespoke and you'll have to troubleshoot it yourself, most likely. |
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