Which aluminum rim: rim brake, wide (20mm internal) clincher rim

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by saab2000

Of these only the Velocity Quill achieves my 20mm internal width requirement.

I have always read that wheel builders like the HED rims for their accurate and straight extrusions. They're on the short list and the Belgium + is wide enough for my needs.

That is true however many higher end rims fill those squares. IME, the very best is DT, particularly those made in Switzerland but the Asian made ones are very close behind. I like HED rims, just not sure what you get for the extra $..

[weiwentg]

Originally Posted by saab2000

Of these only the Velocity Quill achieves my 20mm internal width requirement...

You likely have thought about why 20mm. However, does 1-2mm matter, in the context of the tire sizes you're likely to mount on a rim brake bike? I'd argue it shouldn't really be a deal breaker. Naturally, it's your bike and your wheels.

[robt57]

Originally Posted by weiwentg

You likely have thought about why 20mm. However, does 1-2mm matter, in the context of the tire sizes you're likely to mount on a rim brake bike? I'd argue it shouldn't really be a deal breaker. Naturally, it's your bike and your wheels.

+1 Unless you are specifically targeting a tire wheel combo for aero reasons. Like the original design idea, so a 23 tire is very near width of the rim. For 99-44/100% of us in the real world superfluous really...

Having typed that, there is a sweet spot for 27-28mm actual width tires for 19-21c internal width rims. It just feels nice, solid. Unless you re still pumping tire up to 90-100PSI, then IMO superfluity enters back into the equation...

But then again, opinions are like PSI, right?

[pdonk]

I am likely one if not the only dissenter with respect to HED Belgium + - I hate them.

It may be my tire choice (Schwalbe Pro One) but they are next to impossible to mount tires to and have the tire seat, are difficult to get tires off of. In order to mount with a tube, need to soap the bead and hope it locks, if not, you are riding a bucking bronco and toast the rim in short order.

Even having watched the videos of how to install tires and having a shop show me, have a hard time with them.

[Robot870]

Originally Posted by pdonk

I am likely one if not the only dissenter with respect to HED Belgium + - I hate them.

It may be my tire choice (Schwalbe Pro One) but they are next to impossible to mount tires to and have the tire seat, are difficult to get tires off of. In order to mount with a tube, need to soap the bead and hope it locks, if not, you are riding a bucking bronco and toast the rim in short order.

Even having watched the videos of how to install tires and having a shop show me, have a hard time with them.

They are almost impossible to mount with tubes but i went tubliss ( easy to mount) and never looked back - The new Pro ones with about 70psi have been amazing and no flats now for about 6 weeks in Manhattan......

[robt57]

A lot if early tubeless rims got the center well depth wrong!

I still have V1 SL23 Pacenti rims I won't bother even trying tubeless. But the 'tires' can and do make the fight easier or impossible. And way ore choice today than when these early rims came on the market as well.

BUT, what has helped on non deep well tubeless rim is my using Kapton tape instead of thicker commercial offerings. Forget old school cloth all together for tube setup.

I have rolls of the stuff I got off eBay on the wall in the shop. Cheap as well, in 5-6 years not one failure either.

[mistermo]

Lot's of good information on this subject on Fairwheel Bikes site: http://blog.fairwheelbikes.com/revie...y-rim-roundup/ EDIT: Well, I guess these aren't as wide as I'd initially thought.

[saab2000]

Originally Posted by mistermo

Lot's of good information on this subject on Fairwheel Bikes site: http://blog.fairwheelbikes.com/revie...y-rim-roundup/ EDIT: Well, I guess these aren't as wide as I'd initially thought.

This chart is pretty old.

I have the gen 1 Pacenti SL23 on the wheels in question. The rear is rideable at the moment but has a crack from a direct hit in a deep pothole last summer. One of the spoke holes has actual broken metal. So it’s a dead wheel rolling, no doubt.

When 18mm rims came out they were game changing. I don’t hate them. But I feel that 20mm rims have moved the bar even further.

My favorite non-tubular setup uses 23mm tires with 20mm rims. They’re light and lively and I like them. 25s are fine too. But the 23s on 20mm internal rims remind me of the positive qualities of the best tubulars. Not looking for aero. I like the aesthetic and ride qualities of lower profile rims for the riding these wheels will experience.

I will say that I’ve had good experience with Boyd Altamont Lite rims, so that’s a possibility. I’ve also had a good experience with Pacenti Forza rims and they’re asymmetrical, so that’s a positive.

These will be for my coupled Serotta CIII I’m rebuilding.

[colker]

Originally Posted by saab2000

This chart is pretty old.

I have the gen 1 Pacenti SL23 on the wheels in question. The rear is rideable at the moment but has a crack from a direct hit in a deep pothole last summer. One of the spoke holes has actual broken metal. So it’s a dead wheel rolling, no doubt.

When 18mm rims came out they were game changing. I don’t hate them. But I feel that 20mm rims have moved the bar even further.

My favorite non-tubular setup uses 23mm tires with 20mm rims. They’re light and lively and I like them. 25s are fine too. But the 23s on 20mm internal rims remind me of the positive qualities of the best tubulars. Not looking for aero. I like the aesthetic and ride qualities of lower profile rims for the riding these wheels will experience.

I will say that I’ve had good experience with Boyd Altamont Lite rims, so that’s a possibility. I’ve also had a good experience with Pacenti Forza rims and they’re asymmetrical, so that’s a positive.

These will be for my coupled Serotta CIII I’m rebuilding.

I read everywhere the 20mm rims should only be used w/ 25mm and fatter tires. Good to know something else is doable.

[GregL]

Originally Posted by colker

I read everywhere the 20mm rims should only be used w/ 25mm and fatter tires. Good to know something else is doable.

It really depends on the actual, measured width of the tires. For example, Continental Grand Prix 4000S II tires with a nominal size of 23mm measure out to 26mm on Kinlin XR26T or XR31T rims (inflated to 95 PSI). Are they really 23mm tires? I defer to wiser forum members.

Greg

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by GregL

It really depends on the actual, measured width of the tires. For example, Continental Grand Prix 4000S II tires with a nominal size of 23mm measure out to 26mm on Kinlin XR26T or XR31T rims (inflated to 95 PSI). Are they really 23mm tires? I defer to wiser forum members.

Greg

To be technical, 700x23c is ETRTO size, and these tires will be very close to 23mm when mounted to rims of ETRTO recommend width (which would be 13-15mm for 700x23c tires). If you mount to rims narrower or wider than the ETRTO specs, then they would be different width than the label says. Now that people are installing tires on rims wider than ETRTO recommendations, a lot of the labeled sizing goes out the window - while that GP 4000II might actually wider than 23mm when installed on an XR26T or XR31T rim (a combination not recommended by ETRTO), the tire is still a 700x23c ETRTO tire.

All that being said, tires often don't meet the exact ETRTO standards. Continental GP 4000II tires were actually a little bit wider than the specs. for their labeled size. To account for the recent popularity of wide rims, Continental actually slightly undersized their GP 5000 tires, so these tires will be closer to their labeled width when mounted to wide rims.

[saab2000]

For reference, these are 23mm Vittoria clinchers on V2 Pacenti SL23 rims, with the 20mm internal width. I rode them like this for a couple seasons and enjoyed them very much, so as long as I have decent pavement this is the experience I'm trying to recreate.

I no longer have these wheels and the replacement rims are the Forza so that's likely the direction I'll go.



Mostly I posted this to see if there was anything I'm missing. It appears that this is what's out there.

I'd be tempted to try some carbon rims but they get very expensive very quickly and I'm thinking this bike may get some travel again as I'm considering everyone's positive reviews of the Solvang, CA area for cycling. These are the wheels in question and they need to be re-laced with newer rims.

[lavi]

Bumping this up.

I'm looking to nab some rims for future builds.

I have few wheelsets built with HED Belg +. My builder says they are great to build with. But the price.

Now looking at Velocity Quill.

Same as OP, I want 20+ inner width.

Fire away.

[skitlets]

Originally Posted by lavi

Bumping this up.

I'm looking to nab some rims for future builds.

I have few wheelsets built with HED Belg +. My builder says they are great to build with. But the price.

Now looking at Velocity Quill.

Same as OP, I want 20+ inner width.

Fire away.

I can't recall any new wide rim-brake rims released in the last 2 years. I'm still happy with kinlin and velocity quills.

[catchourbreath]

I had v1 & v2 Pacentis laced to my T-11s. Last fall relaced them to Quills since they were very similar in spec and so far so good.