1x - Do I really need a dedicated chainring?

[T-Crush]

Thinking about trying a 1x drivetrain setup on a currently idle bike. The 1x chainrings I see on the web appear to be profiled differently, I assume to help keep the chain on. Is this a necessity, a good idea or just a way to sell more parts? If it matters, thinking Campagnolo 10 speed for the townie project, but may go with it on the Sram MTB too.

[FlashUNC]

Either that, a chain catcher/guide, or patience to dismount and put the chain back on the ring after it drops.

Clutch derailleur and a narrrow/wide ring and you're good to go.

[eBAUMANN]

you dont NEED it if you are only riding on pavement, but i would highly RECOMMEND it, as narrow wide rings do work exceptionally well for preventing dropped chains.

on a mtb, yes, absolutely necessary, with a clutch RD to match.

[kppolich]

2 important questions to ask when considering going 1x.

Are you riding on the road or off road?

Are you using a clutched rear der?

If off road, might as well use a narrow/wide ring and clutched.

If on road, any chain ring should be fine with a clutched rear der/chain tensioner.

If no clutched rear der or chain tensionerdefinetly a N/W Chain Ring.

[vqdriver]

1x10 townie?? just use what you've got. if you find that you need it, it's no problem to change it later and just deal with any drops until then. fwiw, i have a 1x9 with left over parts that hasn't dropped a chain yet. probably wouldn't even try it on a mtb, but for a townie that chain tension does a lot.

[.RJ]

Yes, you need it unless you like constantly putting your chain back on.

The chainring is MORE important than the clutch RD, and you can get away with just a new chainring if you are not riding off road. If you're riding on trails, its still not essential until its muddy, and then all bets are off unless you have both ends covered.

[auto_rock]

With a MTB ring on a 1x I was throwing the chain off all the time - granted, I was thrashing it pretty hard but maybe you're gonna thrash your townie... got a Wolf Tooth narrow-wide, and no problems since.

[tumbler]

Depends on your roads and how you ride, but for a townie, you are probably fine with a standard chainring and rear derailleur. For the MTB, I would definitely go with the proper narrow-wide ring + clutch derailleur.

[NHAero]

When I converted my CAAD10 to 1x11, I put a 42T Raceface NW chainring on. The RD is an Ultegra R8000 so no clutch, and no chainkeeper. No thrown chains yet, but pavement only riding.

[gdw]

I ran a 1x8 on my town bike, spare mtb, without problems before clutch derailleurs were invented and never dropped a chain on pavement or gravel.

[tommyrod74]

Narrow-wide ring + clutched rear derailleur is the best setup.

I have, however, more than once raced the MTB and forgotten to re-engage the clutch first - was a bit noisy from chainslap but no chain loss with the narrow-wide ring (technical XC terrain).

I have, conversely, dropped a chain with a clutched derailleur once the narrow-wide ring has sufficient wear on it.

I raced a crit-only bike last year with a narrow-wide ring and standard rear derailleur - no drops.

I think the ring does the lion's share of the work.

[weaponsgrade]

I had a regular single ring for the road on my grocery bike. The chain would bounce off when going fast over bumpy roads. I put an old front derailleur on as a chain guide.

For gravel type riding, a dedicated 1x (i.e., narrow-wide) chainring is essential unless you're also running some type of chain guide. A clutch RD is a nice to have.

[velotrack]

i used a regular ring without any pins/ramps for a 1x and it worked great on my town bike- no drops. definitely depends on the application.

[tedski]

I run a 1x10 setup with 7800 group using the inner 39T ring as the single, do have the occasional chain drop when I was on the small cogs when the chain tension is lower. I have since switch to a Narrow-wide 40T and never had any issue again.

[unterhausen]

I used to ride 1X for spring training long before they invented narrow/wide chain rings. I was out riding in late winter when I got to the bottom of a hill, and about 200 feet of the road was covered in slushy ice. I got into it about 20 feet, tried to shift, and the chain dropped. I'm sure that was the only time it dropped on that ride and many others, but do you really want to take the chance that you'll be riding through slushy ice and drop your chain? I say you don't.