Chain-suck sucks; any suggestions on chain catchers?

[Pierre]

Originally Posted by FlashUNC

One opposing views against the K edge. You torque it enough that the chain gets under the K-edge, you're going to have a helluva time getting it fixed roadside.

.

Yep...focus on getting set-up correct. I’ve had the chain jamb under my k-edge 3X and had to walk home once and take crank off to dislodge. I have mine still on there but not convinced it’s needed. Never let chain go beyond 50% wear and check derailleur position every 8 weeks or so. That should avoid 90% of issues.


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[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by Pierre

Yep...focus on getting set-up correct. I’ve had the chain jamb under my k-edge 3X and had to walk home once and take crank off to dislodge.

I'm trying to figure out why one would have to go to such lengths to un-jam a chain with the K-Edge. Is it not attached with simple Allen head bolts? Are Allen wrenches not standard bike carry-along tools?

I've been using K-Edges for years and they've worked well. Once, I had a misadjusted K-Edge, and the chain managed to squeeze past the K-Edge and get stuck below it. In just a couple of minutes I had an Allen wrench out, loosened up the K-Edge, restored the chain back onto the chainring, and then tighted down the K-Edge again (after getting it properly adjusted this time).

[FlashUNC]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

I'm trying to figure out why one would have to go to such lengths to un-jam a chain with the K-Edge. Is it not attached with simple Allen head bolts? Are Allen wrenches not standard bike carry-along tools?

I've been using K-Edges for years and they've worked well. Once, I had a misadjusted K-Edge, and the chain managed to squeeze past the K-Edge and get stuck below it. In just a couple of minutes I had an Allen wrench out, loosened up the K-Edge, restored the chain back onto the chainring, and then tighted down the K-Edge again (after getting it properly adjusted this time).

You manage not to move your front derailleur in that time as well? The K Edge does mount directly on that bolt if you've got a braze on FD.

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by FlashUNC

You manage not to move your front derailleur in that time as well? The K Edge does mount directly on that bolt if you've got a braze on FD.

The arm of the K-Edge Pro Road Braze-on Chain Catcher mounts over the front derailleur bolt, so it doesn't require loosening the front derailleur bolt to attach/adjust the arm. The K-Edge arm is attached with a separate bolt.

In this photo, the front derailleur is attached/adjusted with the top bolt, and the K-Edge chain catcher is attached/adjusted with the bottom bolt:

[FlashUNC]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

The arm of the K-Edge Pro Road Braze-on Chain Catcher mounts over the front derailleur bolt, so it doesn't require loosening the front derailleur bolt to attach/adjust the arm. The K-Edge arm is attached with a separate bolt.

In this photo, the front derailleur is attached/adjusted with the top bolt, and the K-Edge chain catcher is attached/adjusted with the bottom bolt:

They changed their design then. One I had most definitely mounted with the FD bolt directly.

[benb]

I can't find it online but I highly suspect there is a Trek part # for this frame that is a more optimized chain catcher for that particular frame than the aftermarket ones and that Trek has 2 part #s, one for bikes with standard size rings and one for compact rings. I'd talk to a local Trek dealer.

I would have expected the Emonda to come with it already installed but maybe they leave it off some of them because the Emonda is marketed as the weight weenie choice in the Madone/Domane/Emonda triangle.

I had some trouble with my Domane when I first got it... the frameset included the chain catcher. But it turned out the default chain catcher with the frameset is intended for use with 50/34 rings. Because I had built my bike with 53/39 rings the chain catcher was too low to work correctly. A month or two after I got my bike I'd figured out that I couldn't get the chain catcher high enough to work properly with the 39 ring and when I asked the shop they immediately knew what was going on and got me the standard ring catcher. (I'd bet the Koppenberg model framesets came stock with the catcher optimized for the 39 ring)

I think I've only had one dropped/jammed chain since I got the correct catcher and got everything adjusted correctly.. it involved long stretches of mud, which is not what is necessarily expected of a Domane. The front derailleur got so jammed up with mud it somehow managed to still throw the chain off.

But yah, correct adjustment is key too, and maybe not having a SRAM front derailleur.. it is no coincidence SRAM is trying super hard to sell everyone on the 1X for everything.

[steamer]

Two cents.....

IME, chain suck is most common with worn out rings, and the fix to replace the rings, although I would theorize that clutch type rear derailleurs may help prevent it too.

Ring wear doesn't seem to play much role in chain drop, though.

[fa63]

Originally Posted by Pierre

Yep...focus on getting set-up correct. I’ve had the chain jamb under my k-edge 3X and had to walk home once and take crank off to dislodge. I have mine still on there but not convinced it’s needed. Never let chain go beyond 50% wear and check derailleur position every 8 weeks or so. That should avoid 90% of issues.

I am pretty meticulous about adjustments, but it seems that 10% is enough to do some decent damage on a carbon frame... My chain got jammed in there so bad that it bent several of the links, and I had to toss a chain out with ~400 miles on it.

It also seems to me that this is a bigger issue on carbon frames with wide/bulky bottom brackets. I can imagine that if this had happened on a metal frame, the chain wouldn't necessarily have gotten jammed between the BB and the small chainring.

Originally Posted by steamer

Two cents.....

IME, chain suck is most common with worn out rings, and the fix to replace the rings, although I would theorize that clutch type rear derailleurs may help prevent it too.

Ring wear doesn't seem to play much role in chain drop, though.

This happened on an essentially new bike (432 miles on it, according to Strava). I shouldn't have called it chain suck, as I forgot that refers to another set of circumstances. In my case the chain dropped during a downshift and got "sucked" into the space between the bottom bracket and the small chainring, which is technically chain drop.

[steamer]

Originally Posted by fa63

This happened on an essentially new bike (432 miles on it, according to Strava). I shouldn't have called it chain suck, as I forgot that refers to another set of circumstances. In my case the chain dropped during a downshift and got "sucked" into the space between the bottom bracket and the small chainring, which is technically chain drop.

Sorry, your right of course. I just couldn't help myself from addressing what causes the other 'chain doesn't go where its supposed to" syndrome. Just for posterity's sake, I guess.

[jambee]

Hoping to revive this thread since:



It sucked. No idea how I managed, but that was the end of the ride.

I just converted the bike from 1x to 2x11. Its a combination of Campagnolo shifters and rear derailleur, Sugino cranks at 46/30, Shimano Front derailleur and SRAM 11-32 cassette.

So, what's the consensus?

Do we think that it's about tuning the system further (if so, how?) or a chain suck stopper like the Deda piece?

[simonov]

How many miles on the chain and chainrings? I think you're setting yourself up for issues with such a mix and match of parts, but I don't know that chainsuck would be the result of FD tuning. Dropped chains, sure, but probably not chain suck.

[Hindmost]

Classic chain suck. Not a result of adjustments. Usually caused by worn teeth on the ring that "hook" the chain and don't release it. Sandy grit can also do the same thing.

[jtbadge]

Seems like Campy 11 is really struggling with subcompact cranks and big cassettes.

https://forums.thepaceline.net/showt...mpy+chain+suck

[jambee]

I think that there are some facts:
1. Super gritty! My god riding in Brandenburg sand does a number in your chain.
2. Crank is brand new.
3. Cassette has some miles on it and us pretty dirty.

[m_sasso]

Actual chain length too long, exceeding the rear derailleur wrap capacity, worn rear derailleur cage spring, improperly adjusted B screw, improper chain line with short chain stays?

Looks to me like the slack in the chain coming off the chain wheel was not taken up quick enough, hit a bump, chain catches large ring, hangs up, chain caught between stay and chain wheel.