Italian BB, aghrrrrr!!!

[pjbaz]

Originally Posted by Peter P.

I would not use Loctite 242 (Blue).
If you use it in lieu of grease, rust can still form. Then you're in a world of poop.
I'm not sure the 242 would work if you greased the threads first, THEN added the 242.

I was going to say it would be a smart idea to check with Loctite to find the proper "number" of their goo to use on the BB. I had to replace a spoke in my Velomax wheels and it required a close-but-different number than regular "red". I'm glad I checked into the differences before I did it

[Peter P.]

Originally Posted by pjbaz

I was going to say ... than regular "red". I'm glad I checked into the differences before I did it

When I was a wee teenager, budding bicycle geek in the '70's, I had our local reputable shop build me a pair of custom clincher wheels with Maillard hubs and Fiamme clincher rims. I think they used Robergel spokes.

They told me to bring the wheels back in after 100 miles for a free re-truing.

I did, and when I picked up the wheels, they told me they used red Loctite on the initial build, and upon re-truing them couldn't turn them for squat. They had to cut out the spokes and re-lace the wheel!

[mtechnica]

I have a few bikes with Italian bottom brackets and they’ve come loose once or twice in the past, however blue loctite and a good amount of torque seems to work for me. I also mark the cup and the frame so I can easily see if it’s starting to loosen.

[mtechnica]

Also red loctite is theoretically a good choice because of the diameter of the threads. but I wouldn’t use it personally, I think blue holds it more than well enough.

[oldpotatoe]

AAArrrggg..all this about using glue in a Italian(or any) BB shell...we had a Bianchi, steel..RH cup seized in the frame. It would not come out('far superior Italian threads)...so, strip bike to frame(overhaul anyway, new crank and BB so we had to get it out), flats of BB cup into our big, burley vice and 2 of us turning the frame...I was afraid the BB shell would explode but nope..it came out and some sort of dried, loctite-ie type crap all over the threads...

So please.
-Face BB shell
-Grease
-teflon tape
-proper tool
and TIGHT.

IMHO, of course.

BTW-I've seen spokes glued and bonded so you couldn't turn the nipples either. Ya get a 'barber pole' spoke or shattered nipple(a lot were alloy)...

[zennmotion]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

AAArrrggg..all this about using glue in a Italian(or any) BB shell...we had a Bianchi, steel..RH cup seized in the frame. It would not come out('far superior Italian threads)...so, strip bike to frame(overhaul anyway, new crank and BB so we had to get it out), flats of BB cup into our big, burley vice and 2 of us turning the frame...I was afraid the BB shell would explode but nope..it came out and some sort of dried, loctite-ie type crap all over the threads...

So please.
-Face BB shell
-Grease
-teflon tape
-proper tool
and TIGHT.

IMHO, of course.

BTW-I've seen spokes glued and bonded so you couldn't turn the nipples either. Ya get a 'barber pole' spoke or shattered nipple(a lot were alloy)...

...on the other hand, go ahead and loctite it, so that ebay bottom feeders like me can pick up a pristine Giordana frame super cheap because the seller couldn't remove a glued gnocchi (because that's the sound of my bench pulling away from the wall due to the torque on the vise) bottom bracket. My Dad's 60+yr old Wilton FTW.

[dddd]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

AAArrrggg..all this about using glue in a Italian(or any) BB shell...

...BTW-I've seen spokes glued and bonded so you couldn't turn the nipples either. Ya get a 'barber pole' spoke or shattered nipple(a lot were alloy)...

I'm working on a Stans rear wheel this morning, needs all new outer driveside spokes from a chain mishap.

...and they are all Loctited apparently! Propane torch, or cut them out, this is the decision.
I'd like to de-tension them all a bit before removing this very directional swath of spokes, but how?
At least these modern hubs have fat center barrels, so torque going through the hubshell shouldn't twist or break anything, right?
"Famous last words", I know!

Well, actually these spokes are slightly de-tensioned already, putting the rim 1-2mm off towards the left (and how I noticed that the spoke nips were bonded and that the outer driveside spokes were quite gnarled).

[FlashUNC]

Small dab goes a long way. Ain't gotta spread it on like butter on toast. Even the weakest stuff works great.

Just a dab and some anti-seize and you're good to go.

[fmradio516]

what about in a TI bottom bracket shell?? What goes on aluminum threads THEN

[dddd]

Originally Posted by fmradio516

what about in a TI bottom bracket shell?? What goes on aluminum threads THEN

Finish Line sells a copper-based anti-seize touted as best for titanium.

But the silver stuff would be great from my experience, or even just regular grease.

[vqdriver]

I have learned something highly useful today

Originally Posted by Nomadmax

243 works in the presence of lubricants.

[pjbaz]

Originally Posted by Peter P.

When I was a wee teenager, budding bicycle geek in the '70's, I had our local reputable shop build me a pair of custom clincher wheels with Maillard hubs and Fiamme clincher rims. I think they used Robergel spokes.

They told me to bring the wheels back in after 100 miles for a free re-truing.

I did, and when I picked up the wheels, they told me they used red Loctite on the initial build, and upon re-truing them couldn't turn them for squat. They had to cut out the spokes and re-lace the wheel!

Come on, what shop did that? I'm local and inquiring minds want to know

The loctite my wheels called for is designed to be heated to loosen - worked fine taking out the old ones and the new ones went right in - wheels were 12 years old, too

[fmradio516]

Originally Posted by pjbaz

Come on, what shop did that? I'm local and inquiring minds want to know

The loctite my wheels called for is designed to be heated to loosen - worked fine taking out the old ones and the new ones went right in - wheels were 12 years old, too

Oo how do you heat them? Lighter? mini torch?

[Tandem Rider]

If your Italian fixed cup is coming out, lack of loctite isn't the problem. Chase, face, grease the threads, TIGHT with a proper BB fixed cup tool. When you think it's tight, tighten a little more. Gutentight is the technical spec.

[DrewK]

Tighten until your shoulder clicks. Or you can get technical: tighten until it's loose, then back off 1.5 turns.