When a good deal is not a good deal...

[Black Dog]

Originally Posted by mhespenheide

Friend of mine in Riverside was looking for a commuter bike and I was shopping on his behalf. I look around near him and suggest a few bikes, then browse locally and spot a LeMond Poprad that would fit him at a pretty nice price. He and I talk back and forth and we agree to go for it; I'd look at it and make the call. Unusually, it has Campy 10-speed on it (Mirage), but y'all seem to like Campy 10-speed, so we figure that it could work just fine.

I go out, take a look at the bike, ride it around a little. It's a size too small for me, but it seems okay and I buy it.

Bring it home, try to start working on it, get the brakes fairly well set up, but the shifting never quite works as well as I want it to. I start pulling things apart and find that the previous owner was using a Shimano 10-speed hub and cassette with Campagnolo 10-speed shifters and derailleurs. Never figured that was something I needed to double-check!

So, since I've promised my friend a good commuting bike, I pulled off the Campy bits and put on some 9-speed shimano derailleurs I had in parts bins and (luckily!) found some 9-speed 105 shifters at our local co-op for $40. Then after another couple hours swapping everything over and tuning it again. So I'm out $40, some parts, and ~4 hours of my time. But my friend's got a nice bike that he appreciates, so it all comes out fine in the end.

And I've got a Mirage mini-group in the parts bins if anyone's interested...

Here is a bit of irony for you. Ten speed campy will shift perfectly on a 9 speed shimano cassette. All you had to do was a cassette swap and adjust the limit screws on the RD. Now about that mirage mini group that you are looking to part with...

[Pegoready]

Originally Posted by fa63

Someone's gear puller tip seemed like the absolute best pro solution, but I've also taken one of those thin headset wrenches, placed it behind and cassette and gently pried the cassette off by moving it to various points on the cassette and carefully applying pressure against the flange with the torque of the wrench handle. Obviously don't go ham on it or you'll damage the flange.

Lastly, use an 11-34 11-Speed cassette. Problem solved!

[rwsaunders]

I’ve had decent luck with CL in terms of people from other parts of the country buying my parts. They reach out and ask if I’d ship to CA, CT, etc. and I respond that I will if they use PayPal request and add shipping and PayPal fees, depending on the value of the item. Never had an issue with almost a dozen transactions. In fact, last week I sent a Campag part to a gent in San Francisco and received notice that the part had arrived and that he appreciated my effort in dealing long distance...I told him to join Paceline and VSalon to satisfy his quest for parts.

Locally, I always meet at my police station, which is located in between a restaurant and a doctor’s office and there is a large parking lot across the street. I just use the police station address as my location and text the meeting place...never an issue.

[pdmtong]

...nvm, carry on

[Hindmost]

Originally Posted by paredown

I can't see the construction of the wheel very well, but can you use a gear puller, with the center on the center of the axle and the arms hooked behind the last cog?

I shouldn't think it will take much pressure to break it free...

(I picked up a cheap puller from Harbor Freight for doing Ultratorque bearings for ~$10 or ~$12.)

Or put the wheel with axle down a suitable surface and with a metal rod & hammer tap it from the other side?

Not being familiar with the cassette the sleeve doesn't make any sense.

[cinema]

used deals are just that. you are buying someone else's used things/problems. I try to make things right as deals are fluid. I just sold a frame on here that I posted and photographed before I broke it down. when breaking it down I noticed there was a pretty ugly (to me) clamp mark from the front derailleur. The paint on the frame wasn't super pro and had left a nice potocopy of the clamp band and the writing on the inside of it. I notified the buyer, who still wanted the frame, and without him even asking refunded him a couple hundred dollars. it wasn't as I advertised initially and I felt bad about it.

I like negotiating things down in person, no shame in that. many times it doesn't work and I walk, as I just learned the hard way on a pretty large purchase! seems like everyone around here thinks their used **** is worth its weight in gold. I am ecstatic to get 50% back on something if I sell it used, even if I bought it used.

[kppolich]

take the freehub body off and give yourself a better angle for removal of that final cog/sleeve.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9JA6TmkDrg

[fa63]

I used my buddy's Campy bearing puller and the sleeve came off without too much hassle. I can now see clearly why they had to resort to a Red cassette:

[AngryScientist]

looks like the hub is in nice shape. you still made out OK on this deal!

[fa63]

The hubs are in good condition indeed. I adjusted the preload a bit and the bearings feel fine. Trueness / roundness / spoke tension also seem pretty good after throwing the wheels into a truing stand.

It also looks like the cassette can be reassembled and used.

Now to decide whether or not I should take this opportunity to upgrade to 11-speed in the rear hub, or just source a replacement 10-speed freehub body...

Update: found a replacement freehub body on here; the wheels should be back in business soon!

[bikinchris]

Originally Posted by gemship

Do you have regrets about not just taking the 540 bucks? With the second potential buyer not responding I know I would.

Honestly I think wheels are a super dooper crap shoot no matter how much money can be saved buying used. I probably should've stated that in a separate post.

Absolutely not. If we agreed on a price before we meet and then they tried to pull that, no. That's a super low class move.

[jb_11]

Originally Posted by mhespenheide

Friend of mine in Riverside was looking for a commuter bike and I was shopping on his behalf. I look around near him and suggest a few bikes, then browse locally and spot a LeMond Poprad that would fit him at a pretty nice price. He and I talk back and forth and we agree to go for it; I'd look at it and make the call. Unusually, it has Campy 10-speed on it (Mirage), but y'all seem to like Campy 10-speed, so we figure that it could work just fine.

I go out, take a look at the bike, ride it around a little. It's a size too small for me, but it seems okay and I buy it.

Bring it home, try to start working on it, get the brakes fairly well set up, but the shifting never quite works as well as I want it to. I start pulling things apart and find that the previous owner was using a Shimano 10-speed hub and cassette with Campagnolo 10-speed shifters and derailleurs. Never figured that was something I needed to double-check!

So, since I've promised my friend a good commuting bike, I pulled off the Campy bits and put on some 9-speed shimano derailleurs I had in parts bins and (luckily!) found some 9-speed 105 shifters at our local co-op for $40. Then after another couple hours swapping everything over and tuning it again. So I'm out $40, some parts, and ~4 hours of my time. But my friend's got a nice bike that he appreciates, so it all comes out fine in the end.

And I've got a Mirage mini-group in the parts bins if anyone's interested...

Originally Posted by Black Dog

Here is a bit of irony for you. Ten speed campy will shift perfectly on a 9 speed shimano cassette. All you had to do was a cassette swap and adjust the limit screws on the RD. Now about that mirage mini group that you are looking to part with...

Had a similar issue with a bike I bought awhile ago. Installed a j-tek cam adapter and it worked great.

[fa63]

And the saga continues...

I found a nice replacement freehub here on Paceline, and it arrived in the mail today. I then went to remove the old one, and the axle end cap is seized... It wouldn't budge no matter what I did, including using regular and channel-lock pliers (I got frustrated and resorted to brute force in the end...). Now the end cap is all marred but it still hasn't moved at all.

Anyone have any tips for removal? I have also reached out to Chris King to ask if they have any tips (and also to get a replacement end cap).

[duff_duffy]

Just a random guess....is it reverse threaded?

Originally Posted by fa63

And the saga continues...

I found a nice replacement freehub here on Paceline, and it arrived in the mail today. I then went to remove the old one, and the axle end cap is seized... It wouldn't budge no matter what I did, including using regular and channel-lock pliers (I got frustrated and resorted to brute force in the end...). Now the end cap is all marred but it still hasn't moved at all.

Anyone have any tips for removal? I have also reached out to Chris King to ask if they have any tips (and also to get a replacement end cap).

[fa63]

It is not threaded at all; supposed to be slip/interference fit.