Wider tire upfront on gravel? Yes? No?

[makoti]

I am running 38 GravelKing SS+ with cushcore inserts (not sure I'll keep using them when the wear out - if they do) and want to try wider tires. My frame is limited to 42-43 on the rear, but the front is very flexible.
I don't want to push the max in the back and end up trashing the chainstays if it gets sloppy, so was thinking only bumping up the front. They make a 43 SS+ (no 40).
Would running the 43 front and 38 rear work? Is that too large a difference? Anyone do this and can comment about that kind of a difference? Worth it?

EDIT: no idea if it matters, but more info is good. Shamal Carbon, 21mm internal

[wyatt_]

I've done it plenty. Raises your stack by a few mm. Gives you room to run lower pressure and take some of the edge off of rough gravel. Only downside I've noticed is that steering is not quite as sharp feeling on the road, but that may be splitting hairs, unnoticeable to a different rider.

[EB]

Originally Posted by makoti

I am running 38 GravelKing SS+ with cushcore inserts (not sure I'll keep using them when the wear out - if they do) and want to try wider tires. My frame is limited to 42-42 on the rear, but the front is very flexible.
I don't want to push the max in the back and end up trashing the chainstays if it gets sloppy, so was thinking only bumping up the front. They make a 43 SS+ (no 40).
Would running the 43 front and 38 rear work? Is that too large a difference? Anyone do this and can comment about that kind of a difference? Worth it?

EDIT: no idea if it matters, but more info is good. Shamal Carbon, 21mm internal

This will work fine. More width = more grip and more grip in front is good on loose dirt. The different in ride height front to rear is immaterial.

[CAAD]

I just threw on a 45 up front and running a 40 out back. The only thing I noticed is a little extra grip and comfort.

[litcrazy]

I'm have a bike that only takes a 38mm Gravelking SK in back and I'm running a 43mm in front.
On my new fat tired gravel bike, I'm running 67mm in front and 59mm in back.

In both cases I think it's great. I makes descending better and manages rolling resistance. I'll like go bigger in back on the fat tired back as the terrain demands it, but I've been pleasantly surprised by the ride when some of my motivation was using up a half lifed tire in back.

[redir]

Old school BMX puts the wider tire on front. Go for it.

[thirdgenbird]

Add me to the list of people that runs a slightly wider tire up front. Gravel kings as well.

[makoti]

Well, cool! This will be a much cheaper and easier solution, hopefully. Good to hear that some are running exactly what I am thinking of.

How big a difference in psi are you running , F/R? As it is I run maybe just a few PSI less up front. I imagine that with the wider tire up front that might be 5-10 less? The Silca calc shows the front going from 37 to 30 when I go to 43.
With the inserts, I run more like 32-35 upfront. So 25 to 28 in the front, then? Sound right?

[estuche]

I think there's a Cane Creek (?) headset that allows you to adjust the bike head-tube angle, in case you care to keep the geometry the same after up-sizing in the front. Jones bikes also use this idea to an extreme, like a fat tire up front and a 29er in the rear.

As an alternative, you may consider suspension stems from RedShift and Cane Creek, they are far more refined than the old mtb ones and are perfect for drop bars.

[Wunder]

Totally works fine. My CX bike runs a 38 up front and 35 in back for this reason. Gravel bike is 40/40 but I’d bump the front up to a 45 if desired (rear maxes at 40). My wife’s road bike runs 28 front and 25 rear (rear brake bridge too low). All work fine and I’ve also done the reverse sometimes on the road (23 front and 25 or 28 rear) for sharper handling and aerodynamics.

If you do upsize the front, and like your bike fit as is, I’d remove a 5mm spacer from under your stem if you can to correct the stack.

[Classicvelo]

Originally Posted by makoti

I am running 38 GravelKing SS+ with cushcore inserts (not sure I'll keep using them when the wear out - if they do) and want to try wider tires. My frame is limited to 42-42 on the rear, but the front is very flexible.
I don't want to push the max in the back and end up trashing the chainstays if it gets sloppy, so was thinking only bumping up the front. They make a 43 SS+ (no 40).
Would running the 43 front and 38 rear work? Is that too large a difference? Anyone do this and can comment about that kind of a difference? Worth it?

EDIT: no idea if it matters, but more info is good. Shamal Carbon, 21mm internal

Hey there. I did a 38mm rear and 40mm front for a gravel race out here in Colorado with pretty soft and sandy conditions in parts. The biggest issue when you get in the soft is that you can't steer, and a wider tire up front floats a bit better. 43 would have been even better. But you have to drag it around, so it depends on the conditions. Cheers.

[makoti]

Originally Posted by Classicvelo

Hey there. I did a 38mm rear and 40mm front for a gravel race out here in Colorado with pretty soft and sandy conditions in parts. The biggest issue when you get in the soft is that you can't steer, and a wider tire up front floats a bit better. 43 would have been even better. But you have to drag it around, so it depends on the conditions. Cheers.

I just got home from Arkansas, and this is why I'm asking. The gravel roads were rougher than here and had more loose patches. I am looking for a way to make steering a bit more positive and improve the ride, so it sounds like I'm on the right path.

Originally Posted by estuche

I think there's a Cane Creek (?) headset that allows you to adjust the bike head-tube angle, in case you care to keep the geometry the same after up-sizing in the front. Jones bikes also use this idea to an extreme, like a fat tire up front and a 29er in the rear.

As an alternative, you may consider suspension stems from RedShift and Cane Creek, they are far more refined than the old mtb ones and are perfect for drop bars.

Currently running a Redshift stem and a Cane Creek seatpost. They make a huge difference in the ride, but dropping from 35psi to 32 for the last day made even more of a difference.
Is this the headset? https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...a%20new%20fork.

[bigbill]

I'm a 44/40mm guy. I ride on dirt and gravel roads in Arizona with patches of cat-litter gravel and sand. The wider tire in front makes control easier. I could go wider since my gravel bike has a steel unicrown fork, but this is fine.

I've never considered impact on handling, IMO, gravel bikes are like a good Belgian bike, they should go well in a straight line. You're on dirt or gravel, keeping the front end hooked up and the rear under you is all that matters.

[Mark McM]

Using a wider tire on the front to improve grip and control on rougher surfaces is nothing new. In the early days of MTBs, before MTB suspension forks were developed, this was common.

[SonicBoom]

Originally Posted by litcrazy

I'm have a bike that only takes a 38mm Gravelking SK in back and I'm running a 43mm in front.
On my new fat tired gravel bike, I'm running 67mm in front and 59mm in back.

In both cases I think it's great. I makes descending better and manages rolling resistance. I'll like go bigger in back on the fat tired back as the terrain demands it, but I've been pleasantly surprised by the ride when some of my motivation was using up a half lifed tire in back.

I was thinking of pairing a 2.1 Rocket Ron with my 42mm S-Works Pathfinders (47mm on my rims) in the rear of my Giant Revolt to have more descending grip.