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  #1  
Old 04-12-2019, 11:24 PM
Plum Hill Plum Hill is offline
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Repairing rack eyelet

The rack eyelet (welded on, not part of the dropout) on my aluminum Guru cross bike has stripped threads.
Is there enough meat to install a helicoil?
(No snide comments about steaks or hamburgers)
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  #2  
Old 04-13-2019, 12:05 AM
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zmudshark zmudshark is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plum Hill View Post
The rack eyelet (welded on, not part of the dropout) on my aluminum Guru cross bike has stripped threads.
Is there enough meat to install a helicoil?
(No snide comments about steaks or hamburgers)
May be easier to tap one size bigger, unless they were already 6mm.

Barring that, there used to be a thread repair product I have used with varying success.made by Permatex

Last edited by zmudshark; 04-13-2019 at 12:10 AM.
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  #3  
Old 04-13-2019, 12:26 AM
Joxster Joxster is offline
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Or just fit a slightly longer bolt and fit a nylock nut on the other end.
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  #4  
Old 04-13-2019, 05:28 AM
Peter P. Peter P. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joxster View Post
Or just fit a slightly longer bolt and fit a nylock nut on the other end.
This was going to be my suggestion, too.

Drilling out the eyelet to the next size would require doing the same to the rack. That might leave too little material and compromise the strength of the rack.
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  #5  
Old 04-13-2019, 08:35 AM
Timdog Timdog is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joxster View Post
Or just fit a slightly longer bolt and fit a nylock nut on the other end.
I, also, would do a longer bolt and nut. Back in the day my Huffy's didn't have threaded eyelets. Always used a heavy nut and bolt to mount my paper route baskets.
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  #6  
Old 04-13-2019, 09:04 AM
NHAero NHAero is offline
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Sometimes that nut interferes with the smallest cassette cog.
If all else fails, what about filling the hole with JB Weld epoxy and re-drilling and tapping?
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  #7  
Old 04-13-2019, 02:37 PM
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charliedid charliedid is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHAero View Post
Sometimes that nut interferes with the smallest cassette cog.
If all else fails, what about filling the hole with JB Weld epoxy and re-drilling and tapping?
If so you can use a button head from the inside out.
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  #8  
Old 04-13-2019, 06:04 PM
Plum Hill Plum Hill is offline
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Ahead of you all.
I tried a buttonhead screw from the inside with a nut on the outside. Wouldn’t clear the chain on the small cog.
Thought of JB Weld. I wonder if there is something I could put on the threads that the JBW wouldn’t adhere to. Coat screw, insert, JBW, set up, remove screw. Hmmm.
Will have to research the Permatex product.
Will call local tool and die cyclist and get his opinion on helicoil.
Thanks.
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  #9  
Old 04-14-2019, 06:08 AM
Joxster Joxster is offline
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Zip Tie it
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  #10  
Old 04-14-2019, 08:20 AM
Peter P. Peter P. is offline
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Perhaps you should switch both dropout rack mounts from the dropout to a pair of P-clamps around the seatstays.
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  #11  
Old 04-14-2019, 02:00 PM
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oliver1850 oliver1850 is offline
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I would probably use the button head method and grind the head down after installing the rack and nut.
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  #12  
Old 04-14-2019, 02:22 PM
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charliedid charliedid is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oliver1850 View Post
I would probably use the button head method and grind the head down after installing the rack and nut.
Me2
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  #13  
Old 04-14-2019, 05:09 PM
parris parris is offline
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I'd think about running the tap through the backside of the mount in the next closest non metric size thread then use an appropriate fastener on that side using some locktite to keep the screw from vibrating loose.

Last edited by parris; 04-14-2019 at 05:11 PM.
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  #14  
Old 04-14-2019, 06:13 PM
muz muz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oliver1850 View Post
I would probably use the button head method and grind the head down after installing the rack and nut.
How about countersink backside (probably using a right angle drill) and use a flat head bolt?
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  #15  
Old 04-14-2019, 06:14 PM
unterhausen unterhausen is offline
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I have seen some that are large enough for a helicoil
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