Tell me about chain wax

[froze]

Originally Posted by glepore

Car waxes aren't paraffin, they are carnuba if actually wax and polymers if not. They shine nice but aren't very good lubricants.

I don't get the "hassle" factor of hot wax. I have a dedicated crockpot. Once a month or so I turn it on, remove chains from bikes(s), clean and wax. Its easier if you keep chains in rotation, and just reinstall a chain waxed "last time" and wax the chain that just came off and hang it to cool. I haven't had a tattoo since I switched, and you can handle the chain without marks if loading or it drops. Time wise its less than lubing each roller, allowing it to settle in and wiping wiping wiping.

No it's not less time than lubing, I've done both and lubing is quite a bit quicker taking about 20 seconds if you do one roller at a time, but Rock N Roll is actually faster because you dribble in on while you spin the pedals faster than other lubes say to do; and wiping you spin the pedals backwards fast and you can get that done in 10 seconds. Even with hot wax you have to wait for it cool and harden, while true with lubes you should wait at least 6 hours but that's no big deal if you're the type of person who sleeps at least 6 hours a night!

I also had a dedicated crockpot, no waxing has more of a process it to it. Melting the was alone will take about an hour in a slow crockpot, but by the time you melted your wax to 200 degrees I've washed my bike, cleaned my gears and chain and re-lubed my chain.

By the way, when I use to wax (I used Gulf Wax, but really any wax will work) chains we used paraffin oil, but later switched to Slick 50 (the original Slick 50 with Dupont teflon, since then Slick 50 has used a inferior version of Dupont teflon) and added that in at about a 1 to 1 ratio if I remember; we tested it by sticking a spoon into the mixture, let the spoon cool down till the wax was hard, and give it the fingernail test to see if the wax comes off the spoon in pieces, if it did we added a bit more oil till the spoon test showed it sticking to the spoon and my nail would only smear it around with no pieces coming off. So just getting the consistency right took more time then it would to lube a chain! Put the chain in let it set till it bubbles and stir the chain around a bit to get all the links to move and the bubbles to stop. Once you remove the chain you have wipe it down before it cools just as you do with lube to get the excess wax off, and you have to keep wiping till it looks clean, then hang it for about a 1/2 an hour, or overnight is convenient which is what I did; once it's cool you have to work all the links to make sure there are no stiff links from the wax.

For a short while I was even removing the freewheel and placing just the gears into the molten wax thinking I was helping the chain out by not using some of the wax on the chain to cover the gears, not sure if that worked because I never noticed anything better happening.

And then you have to disassemble and reassemble the chain, work the chain through the gears to push out any extra wax.

So no, I disagree with you, there is a lot more work to waxing a chain if you're doing it correctly then there is with lubing. Not only that but whenever it rained I had to re wax the chain, but even with dry riding you had to repeat the waxing process about every 250 miles which is why I had another chain hanging and ready to go.

[JStonebarger]

Most of us who have tried waxing have done both. So far waxing seems to save me time. In part this is because I'm quick about it -- no spoon tests, mineral spirits bath all set, several chains at a time, etc. Partly, too, this is because any discussion of the time it takes has to include cleaning the chain, the cassette, the chaingrings, and whatever else that constant mess of ordinary chain lubes has gotten all over.

I remember once changing my wife's bar tape to a light blue matching our new kit. She loved it. On her next ride she dropped her chain, used her fingers to get it back on, and messed up her new bar tape. That won't happen with wax.

[Dave]

A dry wax based lube may be the best of both worlds. My drivetrain is cleaner than ever and relubing only takes a couple of minutes, tops.

All you need is 6-7 ounces of naptha (white gas/camp fuel), one ounce of wax and 2-5% oil to make a good dry lube.

[froze]

Originally Posted by JStonebarger

Most of us who have tried waxing have done both. So far waxing seems to save me time. In part this is because I'm quick about it -- no spoon tests, mineral spirits bath all set, several chains at a time, etc. Partly, too, this is because any discussion of the time it takes has to include cleaning the chain, the cassette, the chaingrings, and whatever else that constant mess of ordinary chain lubes has gotten all over.

I remember once changing my wife's bar tape to a light blue matching our new kit. She loved it. On her next ride she dropped her chain, used her fingers to get it back on, and messed up her new bar tape. That won't happen with wax.

My chains using Rock N Roll lubes never get my fingers black either, and with the Rock N Roll stuff I no longer clean my chains if I don't want to, but I do anyways because I'm anal like that just not as much as I use to.

I know you can have all the stuff prepared for waxing once you have it dialed in, but people need to know the process involved

Like I said before, wax does not last as long as an oil based lube, wax lasts about 200 miles unless it rains then it's gone, Rock N Roll and others I've used last around 400 to 500 miles before doing a quick relube. And yes waxing does take more time no matter what you're trying to convince others about, I'm not going to argue about this any more, I've been there done that I know all to well the time that was involved. Here is a video that speeds through the process but just watching this you know this isn't something quick and easy: https://moltenspeedwax.com/pages/waxing-your-chain

I did discover today there's been a product out for a while that has the teflon from Dupont all ready mixed in a wax that you spray out of a can onto the chain and goes on dry and supposedly it's water resistant which I sort of doubt, but anyways it runs very clean on chains: https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon.../dp/B00KMMFE8Y It's also available at Walmart. I may try this just for kicks, if it doesn't work to my satisfaction I have things I can use the lube on around the house. Finish Line got bought out by Dupont and now Finish Line has a Wax Lube (simply called that) that is supposedly very durable and very slick, I may try that after the Dupont stuff.

[oldguy00]

Waxing properly is definitely a process, but some of us enjoy doing that kind of work on our bikes. Its usually a day that I'm hanging around the house. Turn the crock pot on, put the chain on top of the hard wax. Go back in an hour and stir the chain around in the hot oil, go back in 20 and take it out and hang up.

Then any time in the future take the cooled chain and run it over something round to break it up quickly, re-install.

If I were in a hurry, I'd just be using R&R Gold.

Question though....if you've waxed your chain, and you show up race morning and it is raining, can you apply an oil over the wax to get you through the day?

[JStonebarger]

Originally Posted by oldguy00

Question though....if you've waxed your chain, and you show up race morning and it is raining, can you apply an oil over the wax to get you through the day?

I haven't had an issue in rain so far -- wax holds up to water very well (tests confirm this), with the added benefit that it doesn't hold as much sand and dirt as wet lubes can. After the muddiest 'cross season I've had in years -- my first using wax -- I'm very happy with it.

In the pit once a friend applied a wet lube to my waxed chain without me knowing it (very wet race). Whether or not the chain needed it I don't know, but the wet lube worked fine. Afterward I stripped the chain again to prepare it for wax.

After a bit of rain I usually shake water off a freshly waxed chain and forget about it. After heavy or prolonged rain the chain soaks in MS until I want to wax again and a freshly waxed chain goes on. The swap takes a couple minutes. (During cx season I had 10-12 chains in rotation for our 4 cross bikes.)

[MisterMurray]

Hmmm, seems like just as with everything thing else bicycle related, it comes down to personal preference...

[GParkes]

I save the wax for my Speedo lines. Use Triflow for the chains

[MikeD]

Originally Posted by froze

I did discover today there's been a product out for a while that has the teflon from Dupont all ready mixed in a wax that you spray out of a can onto the chain and goes on dry and supposedly it's water resistant which I sort of doubt, but anyways it runs very clean on chains: https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon.../dp/B00KMMFE8Y It's also available at Walmart. I may try this just for kicks, if it doesn't work to my satisfaction I have things I can use the lube on around the house. Finish Line got bought out by Dupont and now Finish Line has a Wax Lube (simply called that) that is supposedly very durable and very slick, I may try that after the Dupont stuff.

Don't bother. I tried it. You need to relube after every ride with this stuff. It's similar (if not identical to) Finish Line Dry.

[John H.]

I did the Molten Speed wax thing a couple weeks ago- I am about ready for a 2nd wax- They say just put the chain in the melted wax and swish around for 60 seconds.

[glepore]

John-yeah, that's what I do. Eventually the wax gets contaminated and needs to be tossed. But I save the stripping for the factory grease. I will throw it in the us cleaner for a cycle to get the surface dirt off.

[HenryA]

Originally Posted by MikeD

Don't bother. I tried it. You need to relube after every ride with this stuff. It's similar (if not identical to) Finish Line Dry.

Regarding DuPont Teflon Chain Saver — My experience is completely opposite. No need to relube very often and does a fine job of quiet lubrication. Stays on pretty great on MTBs as well. You should clean the chain completely before applying the lube (they make a very effective cleaner too). Then follow the directions on the can. When it dries it leaves a dry wax film behind.

The Dupont Teflon Chain Saver also comes in a small dropper bottle if you prefer to do a roller by roller application.

http://www.performancelubricantsusa....-lubricant.php

https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_con...&v=Jmv5Ak9Lo6g

[froze]

Originally Posted by HenryA

Regarding DuPont Teflon Chain Saver — My experience is completely opposite. No need to relube very often and does a fine job of quiet lubrication. Stays on pretty great on MTBs as well. You should clean the chain completely before applying the lube (they make a very effective cleaner too). Then follow the directions on the can. When it dries it leaves a dry wax film behind.

The Dupont Teflon Chain Saver also comes in a small dropper bottle if you prefer to do a roller by roller application.

http://www.performancelubricantsusa....-lubricant.php

https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_con...&v=Jmv5Ak9Lo6g

Interesting; on the video it shows it can be used on a motorcycle, I would think if they are recommending it for a motorcycle it should be more then fine for a bicycle?

I'm still thinking of trying it, I have a really good product I use now so I do have a base to go on.

[weaponsgrade]

Got my first ride in with a Molten Speedwaxed chain. The bike seemed a little loud in the stand, but things were pretty quiet once outside. Shifts were smooth. I couldn't tell much of a difference in the ride, but I'm liking having a clean drive train. Let's see how long it holds up. The cleaning/waxing process was a multi-day affair, but I was waxing a bunch of chains for the bikes I ride the most and also so I could have some waxed chains on standby.

[fmradio516]

I dont pay enough attention to the quality of lube I use on my bikes. Still using really old Pedros dry lube that I have a huge tub of. Come by with your empty bottles; leave with them filled!