Raw Aluminum Finishing

[mattscq]

I've been in this habit of stripping typically black alloy parts to turn them silver mostly due to a lack of natively silver parts.

So far I've done a chainring, a computer mount, some lock rings etc. I have been thinking of doing my shifter levers but unlike those other parts which are cheap/low-touch/needs periodic replacement anyway, the shifters are a relative pain to remove and reinstall, are expensive to replace, and probably won't ever need to be replaced anyway so their durability is a bit more important. That said, whereas I haven't had to really worry about corrosion, I know aluminum can oxidize.

I'm not necessarily looking for a mirror finish but any ideas on what I can do?
I've looked into anodizing but a local shop wants $125. Not bad but also a bit more than I would like given how frivolous this is.

Anybody have any luck (pics would be nice) if just clear coating it?

Tips and tricks?

Thanks

[steelrimbrake]

My MTBs from Canfield Bikes have typically been raw - currently on a raw tilt. One of them was a limited edition polished:
https://nsmb.com/articles/canfield-b...nce-le-review/

I've stripped smaller parts before, without any clear they've oxidized. Had a friend that works in auto so he cleared coated them for me.

Otherwise there's this:
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamond...r-aerosol.html

[donevwil]

I'd avoid the anodize route, shiny with anodize takes a lot of effort and process know how. Keep things bare, progressive sanding (finishing with 1500 or 2000), polish and done. Quite a few silver parts out there are bare (not anodized), White Industries cranks, Paul Components polished parts for example.

[mattscq]

It's a relatively small number of parts to finish so I don't mind the labor. The desired effect is less mirror-chrome shiny and more Dura-Ace 7800 era parts or Thompson silver bits.

I had no idea that WI and Paul polished were left raw. Don't they just oxidize then?

[donevwil]

Originally Posted by mattscq

It's a relatively small number of parts to finish so I don't mind the labor. The desired effect is less mirror-chrome shiny and more Dura-Ace 7800 era parts or Thompson silver bits.

I had no idea that WI and Paul polished were left raw. Don't they just oxidize then?

Not as quickly as you'd think. Climate, riding conditions and care (cleaning) are the big variables, but even if you see some oxidation beginning it's a quick polish away from looking like new again. I have a fair weather, "nice" bike with polished parts that hasn't been touched, other than cleaning, in 10 years still looks new.

[wyatt_]

This stuff is your friend. Works great for aluminum parts that have been stripped in my experience. No need to try to polish, just hit them with a buffing pad and it goes a long way to protect the aluminum.

[donevwil]

Originally Posted by wyatt_

This stuff is your friend. Works great for aluminum parts that have been stripped in my experience. No need to try to polish, just hit them with a buffing pad and it goes a long way to protect the aluminum.

"No need to try to polish", instead use this polish? Maybe you meant sand? Sanding (and in extreme cases filing) are only required to blend damage.

Agree that this works very well (I use Meguiar's because I inherited it) and a bench buffer, but have done it by hand.

[jimbolina]

I, myself love the look of aluminum. Brushed aluminum, that is. I think that ‘warm’ color that aluminum shows, vs the slightly harsher, ‘cooler’-silver appearance stainless steel and chrome usually impart, is preferable.

Over these many years I have personally removed coatings on assorted aluminum products and components and have always used (green) Scotchbrite as my primary finisher. Or if it came with merely a clear coat, or nothing, the Scotchbrite was still called upon!

It is easy as heck to use, cheap as dirt and can be employed quickly and easily when a small touch-up, or big-job refinish is required.

Anyway, I obviously realize it doesn’t provide that highly polished, mirror finish many like or even prefer, but for me it fills the bill.

[wyatt_]

Originally Posted by donevwil

"No need to try to polish", instead use this polish? Maybe you meant sand? Sanding (and in extreme cases filing) are only required to blend damage.

Agree that this works very well (I use Meguiar's because I inherited it) and a bench buffer, but have done it by hand.

Ha, yeah, fair point. Guess I just meant that you don't need to get a mirror finish to protect it with that stuff.

[mattscq]

So I did a strip in an ultrasonic cleaner with Greased Lighning which took off 99% of the black finish. Proceeded to do a few passes with Scotch Brite and then a few more minutes with Mother's with a microfiber. I think I'll leave them raw for now and see how they hold up since I can always re-polish and then clear coat them if they start getting fussy.

SRAM laser etched the RIVAL graphic on them though, so if you look carefully, you can make out the dashed outline of the graphics there previously. I could rub them out with some more abrasive material but they're kinda nice.

[Fat Cat]

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...p-success.html

Just way easy