#16
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timely, this is what I will be working on today:
GRX di2 1x conversion: swap out 11-34 casssette with 11-52, replace deraileur cage, 44t single ring on SRAM Red bb30 crank For comparison: 11-34 vs 11-52 xt long cage vs extended long cage
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#17
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I use 44 x 10-50 and 10-53 on my gravel wheel sets. I use an Eagle AXS rear derailleur. You should look at a gearing chart. A 44t ring will not give you small climbing gears. You might want to use a 44t chainring if you are in flatter terrain, but if you have steep climbs, you might want to stay with a smaller chainring and give up the top end.
Last edited by djg21; 03-17-2024 at 04:27 AM. |
#18
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One thing to keep in mind tho: you're only as strong as your smallest gear.
Run those pie plates and you'll end up pushing with the same energy, just going slower M |
#19
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I usually run doubles on my gravel bike. Lots of climbing on gravel around here, and some of it is steep with loose gravel. I ran 28 front/32 rear for a long time. Last time I got a cassette, I went to a 36 on the rear. I still managed to run out of low gear on a recent ride. It was so steep that pushing was too unpleasant, so I decided to turn around because I was near the halfway point anyway.
I have considered going to 1x for gravel. For me, I think that high gears are significantly less important. I'm not racing, and I can spin. I use my 42-11 high gear, but I could do without it. Been thinking about a 38 if I go 1x. |
#20
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AXS shifters and a gx rear is like perfection
42 ring with a 10/50. Every gear works perfectly and I feel it the ticket for pretty much everything I need. Makes me regret 30 years of cables and front derailleurs If you're using sram electronic and a garmin...the shifting report is interesting and can definitely help dial gearing |
#21
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I run a 9-46 though, with a 38T or 40T, but I may try going to a 10-51 or 11-52 as you have, I have trouble with the 9T sometimes when the chain is real low on wax/grease. |
#22
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+1 This is the way.
I hesitated before buying a 38t thinking I'll be "spinning out" but that's just not the case. Granted I am running 165mm cranks now, and the higher cadences this leads to tend to match better with slightly easier gearing. |
#23
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That must be the longer goat link, not the road link.
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#25
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#26
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What's it look like in the small cog?
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Instagram - DannAdore Bicycles |
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Shhhhh.... I am working on something that could potentially escape the UCI motor doping tests....
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#28
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I still think we've been sold a bill of goods with the 1x for gravel. Easier for the frame builders and it got everyone to buy a new bike because you "Had" to have a 1x with 50c tires. But the large skips in gears for these pie-pan cassettes is lame. I've never dropped my chain on my 2x even when riding rocky single track. And my 50/34 11/34 is great for when I go from pavement to gravel to singletrack all on the same ride. Who knows perhaps in a couple of years the industry will tell everyone that 1x is now old school and we all need doubles up front to be current.
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I'm riding to promote awareness of my riding |
#29
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IMO there is no "right" answer for gravel gearing. It's very dependent on your riding style, fitness, preferred terrain, and whether you're competing or riding for fun. Pick 1X or 2X depending on these factors and choose the gear ratios depending on your needs. Above all, enjoy the ride!
Greg |
#30
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Bingham/B.Jackson/Unicoi/Habanero/Raleigh20/429C/BigDummy/S6 |
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