#31
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I've spent some time in Scotland, not quite the same as England, but road quality is similar. But, loads of gravel, farm track, and trails, so a burly gravel bike, mostercross, or fast hardtail would make a nice do-it-all.
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#32
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+1. I'd want just what was specified; being able to throw 32s on with fair clearance seems nice to have in your back pocket on the bike. I'd wait the 6 weeks and figure something else out for the event if possible.
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#33
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I'd take option #2. Get what you originally wanted. On option #3, my concern is that the builder - especially someone starting out - may not know how far a tube can be crimped and manipulated. The bike might be fine for the first few thousand miles, but then develop cracks afterwards. On option #1, I'd probably forget about the discount over the years, but it'd forever bug me knowing I didn't get what I originally wanted and I'd get a sharp reminder of that anytime I went to put in a 32.
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#34
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This^^^
THIS^^^
The other thing to consider about a new rear triangle is the experience level of the builder. Do you want someone who has not built a ton of frames to cut apart a frame and put a new rear triangle on. Things can go wrong... True story- In the 90's I had a nice custom Columbus ELOS frame. I crashed it and had a different builder replace the toptube. I did this because the original builder was busy, it was June and I wouldn't have gotten the repair back until late fall. So I had another builder replace the toptube. This builder is now a legend, but in the 90's he was just getting going. Most of his experience was in a particular type of hardtail (mine was a road bike with pretty thin wall tubing). When I got the bike back it looked perfect. Part of that was that he used the same painter. But he ovalized the seatube, and the bike rode like a pile- It was not longer straight. Lesson learned. |
#35
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Quote:
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#36
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Something to consider: My 700x28 labeled Panaracers measure 30mm on my Light Bicycle carbon rims* (rim brake). All of the tires on my disc rims measure wider than the labeled size to some degree. A tubeless setup generally produces a wider tire than using an innertube.
It's more likely than not that whatever tires you run going forward will measure at or wider than the labeled width. So, if your new or corrected frame can accept a tire no wider than 32mm are you going to have to purchase 700x30 tires? It wasn't long ago that those didn't even exist and there aren't a whole lot to choose from now. I can understand most of the positions taken in this thread, but perhaps having the builder do what he can with regard to additional crimping/dimpling and getting the frame on the road now is the best option for you and the builder. *bike is second hand and I don't know the internal width as I haven't had the tires off yet. |
#37
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And from my experience last fall in Wales and the Peak District - don't forget the sheep crap on the trails and roads. Loads of crap. And when it rains...just be sure your bike has, er, mudguards.
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#38
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I'd opt for option #2 if you trust him.
If you take option #1 you'll always hate the frame because it isn't what you ordered. If you take option #3 you won't get enough gained clearance and might compromise the tubing too. The builder is being fair. Things happen. He has offered to make you the frame you ordered with a small delay. I wouldn't expect a discount. I would expect return shipping covered but not a dealbreaker. Do you trust him? Do you know where he is located? I just mention this because some builders disappear especially if they're pressed against a wall. I heard a recent story about a paid Gaulzetti frame that was returned for the wrong paint color and it just disappeared along with the builder (https://forums.thepaceline.net/showp...2&postcount=17) Even if he squishes the current rear end to give you 2 more mm that overall isn't enough and might compromise the tubing. I think you should aim for 5-6 mm of clearance with the max tire desired "as measured" i.e. a tire that actually measures 32 mm (be that a 700x30 measuring wide or a 700x33 measuring narrow or whatnot). Last edited by Pegoready; 03-15-2024 at 11:10 AM. |
#39
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Oh boy what a downer
Personally I’d say with races coming up just race the hell out of it if you’re happy with race day clearance and worry about guards etc over a pint ,if you go for a partial re-build get some advice [not off your builder]about how happy XCR is about being reheated and /or crimped again .As a fellow Brit I’am happy to give him a huge shout out for doing the Whitton ,this event and the Dragon Ride in Wales [still run ?] are the original two hardest UK sportives just huge distance non stop up and down on some of hardest passes the country has ,every other ‘hard’ sportive here is trying to copy them ,he’ll know about the sheep if they’re not on the road they’re the folk watching
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#40
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Yup... from last year.
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#41
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What can the front fork handle?
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#42
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Whoa! I presume this isn’t an optical illusion.
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#43
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No - that section of road touches 33%. It is unspeakably hideous
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#44
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#45
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Quote:
No can do. |
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