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  #1  
Old 11-17-2019, 06:18 PM
guylimey guylimey is offline
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Campy Super Record 11 FD - failure

Any one suffered from this problem where the derailleur fails close to the Phillips headed screw at the rear of the derailleur which secures the outer plate to the inner plate and the small piece of metal that bridges across between the plates breaks off? What is the fix? A complete replacement derailleur?
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  #2  
Old 11-17-2019, 06:42 PM
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jpritchet74 jpritchet74 is offline
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Nope.

Post a pic, eh?
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  #3  
Old 11-17-2019, 06:47 PM
zmalwo zmalwo is offline
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there was another guy here who had the same problem and few of our fellow paceliners also replied that they had the same problem. seems to be a common issue. The solution was replacing the cage with a chorus alloy cage.
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  #4  
Old 11-17-2019, 06:51 PM
zmalwo zmalwo is offline
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I personally recommend an Athena FD as it uses a zinc-coated nickel cage rather than an alloy cage used by Chorus FDs. I had both Chorus and Athena FD, the Chorus FD plate wear out much faster than the Athena FD cage as aluminum alloy is so much softer than nickel.
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  #5  
Old 11-17-2019, 06:56 PM
yinzerniner yinzerniner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guylimey View Post
Any one suffered from this problem where the derailleur fails close to the Phillips headed screw at the rear of the derailleur which secures the outer plate to the inner plate and the small piece of metal that bridges across between the plates breaks off? What is the fix? A complete replacement derailleur?
I had something similar to this happen to a first gen SR FD and was lucky enough that the break happened at the mid point of the plastic loop that the screw secured into. Was able to jb weld it together with a bit of reinforcement via a bent paperclip. It worked temporarily and the paperclip fell out, but it still shifted the same as before, which was admittedly not the best.

Unfortunately it just seems to be a weak point for the super slimmed down SR stuff.
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  #6  
Old 11-17-2019, 10:20 PM
Idris Icabod Idris Icabod is offline
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I had one break there. You can buy a new cage but I found an entire new FD cheaper than what I could find the cage for.
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  #7  
Old 11-18-2019, 06:46 AM
SPOKE SPOKE is offline
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I think you need a new bike😜
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  #8  
Old 11-18-2019, 06:49 AM
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oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guylimey View Post
Any one suffered from this problem where the derailleur fails close to the Phillips headed screw at the rear of the derailleur which secures the outer plate to the inner plate and the small piece of metal that bridges across between the plates breaks off? What is the fix? A complete replacement derailleur?
Unfortunately not uncommon..
-Find a donor front der
-fund a metal cage, the cage or a front der...

A '10s' front der will work just fine, BTW..or a 2015 front der...
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  #9  
Old 11-18-2019, 02:59 PM
dddd dddd is offline
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So reminiscent of the early SRAM Red front mech's with the welded titanium cage, often broke at the weld but still worked (if less robustly than before).

It's tough trying to repair minimalist lightweight things since there is so little material to work with. I had the threaded bore of a SRAM Red caliper "Aerolever" arm split open at the pinch bolt, luckily found a used single for sale from which parts could be swapped (as it wasn't the same in terms of being front/rear).
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  #10  
Old 11-18-2019, 03:16 PM
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cgolvin cgolvin is offline
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I had the same problem, am so far fortunate that once I discovered it I was able to screw it back in and have it hold (so far).

Unfortunately by the time I figured out why I couldn't get the shifting right the outer cage had worn a rub mark into the crank arm. Expensive lesson.
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  #11  
Old 11-19-2019, 04:35 AM
robertbb robertbb is offline
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Chorus wins... again.
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  #12  
Old 11-19-2019, 05:57 AM
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I've been fighting this design flaw on one Super Record FD for years now. I've bonded it twice, shop has bonded it once, and it just always seems to break free. Thought of trying some ss wire tied in as a final attempt.

Had Campy extended the carbon all the way to the plate I feel it would've worked, rather than going with a cheap plastic connector.

I have a metal Chorus 11 ready to go next time cables are replaced, just haven't done it yet because ti shifts just fine, even with the broken cage.
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  #13  
Old 11-19-2019, 07:14 AM
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Lewis Moon Lewis Moon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpotatoe View Post
Unfortunately not uncommon..
-Find a donor front der
-fund a metal cage, the cage or a front der...

A '10s' front der will work just fine, BTW..or a 2015 front der...
This is the reason I've always used older 10sp front ders on my Campy bikes.
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  #14  
Old 11-19-2019, 08:21 AM
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oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
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Or..pretty sweet and not expensive($55-$65 or so)...

2015-2019
Attached Images
File Type: jpg campagnolo-chorus-2015-fm.jpg (31.3 KB, 77 views)
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  #15  
Old 11-20-2019, 09:57 AM
SoCal Al SoCal Al is offline
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The pre-2014 SR 11s FD don't have the arm that the R11s one has so when I set my 2014 SR gruppo up I used the R11 FD. It's worked flawlessly however there is a bit of chain rub on the outer side of the carbon arm but not so bad as to replace it.

As OPs pic shows, the post-2014 SR FDs all have the arm for more leverage I assume.
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