#31
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#32
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that's the sound of the credit card processing fee.
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#33
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Quote:
None of the alloy wheels I've owned were able to touch the stiffness of a carbon rim - not even close. I mostly used Open Pros, then switched to Hed C2s, but have also run DT RR440s (personal fave). None of my alloy wheels had exotic spokes, lacing, or low counts. |
#34
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This thread reminded me of a funny one from a couple of years ago.
https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=244750 |
#35
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Haven’t seen a better deal on a 24 wide internal rim carbon wheelset than this Hunt one:
https://us.huntbikewheels.com/produc...urecarbon-disc Seems too good to be true in comparison to any price I’ve seen for something comparable in terms of spec. I guess the Bitex hubs aren’t quite the value that DT Swiss would be, but I’ve heard a lot of people swear by Bitex at this point. I will admit to being a little confused as to why these wheels are so much cheaper than the rest of the carbon options out there, though. |
#36
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Pretty much the same story across the board with all these direct to consumer brands. They keep development costs low by using off the shelf/whitelabel hubs and reverse engineering other brands who spend time and money doing the engineering work. No marketing budget, no Tour sponsorship, cheap labor and direct distribution keeps overhead low.
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#37
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Quote:
Back Hunt Wheel = ~6k miles (Cracked the original jumping things like crazy) spin ultra smooth like the day I bought them. As you can see in the picture, I am NOT EASY on them! |
#38
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NOT saying saving a few hundred grams is the answer to ANY question, particularly on a bike and rider 'package' is in the 88,000gram range(like you). BUT, it's all about whizbangery, coffee shop points..remember there is only 2 things you can measure on a bike..weight and price..Lighter is more better, right?(Yes, I know that's not always true)..
__________________
Chisholm's Custom Wheels Qui Si Parla Campagnolo |
#39
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Light Bicycle rear disc is around $755 ($850 if I go w DT350 instead of Chosen), $200 more than Light Carbon - I am leaning towards going with the more reputable company. Funny, Ron wheels have a sale on a disc wheel with AL rim but then I'd have to swap pads.
https://ronwheels.com/disc-wheels/29...lor-anthracite |
#40
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For me, based on my routes, deeper section carbon rims roll faster once you get above a certain speed (20+), without question. Does it matter? If riding solo, no. Power output is power output.
It's just more fun to go faster with same output, that's all. Now if riding with 3-5 or so buddies, all of whom have aero rims and I'm sporting regular aluminum rims on a rolling downhill or fast flat and I'm in the front, that's no bueno. They're coasting, I'm pedaling. That's when I'll tuck in behind and coast, let them pedal. That said, in my opinion, there's no comparison of braking on carbon rims to the crisp braking of an aluminum surface rim. Last edited by 54ny77; 12-07-2021 at 01:12 PM. |
#41
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Quote:
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#42
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Was thinking about this the other day, and realizing if I was doing a workout for time, let's say 90 minutes, then having faster wheels mean I ride farther -- more tire wear, more drivetrain wear, more risk of getting stranded farther from home (assuming not a lap workout).
Of course, the logical extension of that is ride a trainer |
#43
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Hah!
FWIW, I typically cruise along my usual ~40 mile loop at 15-17mph avg. Wattage is prob. in the 140-150 range (I don't have power meter but occasionally ride with a pal who does, hence the reference). 3/4 of the loop is basically flat other than a nice punchy climb. When I'm using carbon deep section rims, I'm running a couple of mph faster avg. with no perceived extra effort. Have ridden same route with friends (who have alu. wheels) and when we line up to coast going ~30 mph or so on some downhill sections (and no aero tuck), when I'm on my various clincher rims, it's even. When I'm on carbon, I pull ahead. It's really that simple. Strangely enough, I have a super light set of alu. handbuilt clinchers and I like those more for when going uphill vs. the carbon wheels. Probably a function of how they're built (tension, quality, yadda yadda). But, that's for the only 10-12 min. or so of going uphill. On that downhill, if it's cross-windy, the alu. rims far more stable (since I'm hitting 40+). Quote:
Last edited by 54ny77; 12-07-2021 at 04:49 PM. |
#44
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The only way it might make a difference is if the extra speed makes you shift into a smaller cog which will wear faster. But if you go with a larger chainring that allows you to use the same cog at higher speed, then it shouldn't make a difference.
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Instagram - DannAdore Bicycles |
#45
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I can’t speak to strength, but I would assume that even for rim brake wheels, a competent builder can find you a sufficiently robust rim. If you want one, which you don’t, which is perfectly logical. The other thing is aerodynamics, if you want that. If you don’t care, that’s also perfectly logical. I realize I may not be doing a great job selling you carbon rims, but I am not in the business of selling them. |
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