Securing the chainring nut

[Veloo]

Even with tools like the Park CNW-2 or the Icetoolz screw driver style tool I find there can still be slipping that results in damage to the chainring nut slot.

What's your trick for keeping the tool securely in place when unscrewing/ screwing chainring bolts before I go and blow some cash on the Var PE-35500?

[mktng]

are the bolts you use too long?
ive never had issues with my cnw-2.

[Veloo]

No, all stock OEM stuff. I find now and then there's one that's tighter than the others and then that one slips. And this is new, never touched bolts.
Some blots I find I can tighten with just an allen because the nut stays put but some need the nut tool cuz they spin in the hole as you tighten.

Originally Posted by mktng

are the bolts you use too long?
ive never had issues with my cnw-2.

[wildboar]

Maybe this doesn't answer your new OEM question, but- a (cheapo) secret trick for removing rusted or stuck together chainring bolts that spin is to take an adjustable wrench and hook one jaw into the rear bolt/nut "slot" and then hold the other jaw between 2 of the chainring teeth, so the bolt/nut will no longer spin...while you simultaneously remove the bolt with an allen wrench.

[dddd]

I never use a traditional chainring nut tool for tensioning the chainring bolts.

The nut tool is really best just for helping to keep the nut from turning while the chainring bolt itself is tightened with an Allen or Torx wrench.

This way, the friction at the nut's flange doesn't have to be overcome by any additional torque coming from the chainring nut tool, but rather the flange friction is helping to keep the nut from turning, thus reducing the peak force needing to be applied by the nut tool.

To the original question, I hold the chainring nut wrench against the inside face of the chainrings while tightening each bolt, and as the nut and wrench rotate the wrench at some point snags on one of the tabs of the inner chainring, preventing it from turning further.

Keeping the bolt threads greased and the nut flange dry is the best measure to reduce any tendency of the nut rotating forcefully, sparing the wrench interface.

[Mark McM]

I find the same as dddd above. The slotted chainring nut tool is just to hold the nut in place as you torque the screw (with an allen wrench). Due to friction in the system, little of the allen wrench torque gets to the slotted chainring tool. So it is just a matter of pressing and holding the chainring tool into the slot, and then holding it from turning as you turn the allen wrench. Finger pressure directly on the head of the tool has always been enough to hold the tool in the slots. I've never had a problem with this, with either steel or aluminum chainring bolts.

Sometimes I've found that a chainring nut tool is fatter than the witdth of the slots, so I either use a thinner chainring too, or I file down the one I have until it seats fully in the slots.

[jtbadge]

The real answer here is chainring bolts that take allen keys on both sides.

[Black Dog]

If the bolt is spinning then there are 3 possibilities. 1: it is bottoming out because the nut is too long. File it down if it is. 2: There is grease or lube in the hole in the chainring preventing the nut from staying put. Or 3: the threads are fouled with grit or deformed causing the nut to spin.

[nooneline]

in the track, we just glue the nuts into our cranks. it makes frequent chainring changes a lot easier.