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  #31  
Old 08-02-2013, 08:46 AM
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There's no need to characterize anyone's choice here. Lots of bikes work and that's the point trying to be made. After all, it's not a race and the worst sections can be traversed by any bike if you go slow enough. The jeep track at the beginning isn't very long at all. In fact most people have to walk that regardless of their bike/tire choice. It's too technical to clear for most. The long descent before the rest stop is the trickiest part and if you take it slow you are fine.

I used to think fat tires were a must and recommended them myself, but after riding similar/worse terrain with 25mm tires I was surprised how little I missed bigger tires. In fact bigger tires made me bomb the descents faster than I probably should have and had a few near crashes because of it. I will stand by the superior performance of tubulars and tubeless. Lots of places for pinch flats unless you are riding monster tires. I would routinely bottom out my Michelin Jets on rocks in the middle of the road.
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  #32  
Old 08-02-2013, 09:03 AM
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  #33  
Old 08-02-2013, 09:11 AM
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D2R2 Bikes 2013

This bike was essentially built by the Paceline as almost all of it came from Paceline members in one way or another.
It will have a different wheel set and tires (28s) but essentially this is it:




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Last edited by Formulasaab; 08-02-2013 at 09:36 AM.
  #34  
Old 08-02-2013, 09:16 AM
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For the vast majority of riders . . .

. . . wider tires and lower gearing are going to contribute to a more enjoyable day.

In 2008 my lowest gear was a 36-26 and while I survived the 100k ride, I was really hurting at the end and by then it was not enjoyable. But I wanted to prove to myself I could do it and I did--and I've been riding for almost 30 years and am in what I think could accurately be described as good shape. This is a challenging ride by any measure.

Last year with that in mind, I put on a new long cage derailleur and a 34-32 lowest cog combo and it made all the difference in the world. I had a good time, got a great workout, and finished the ride with enough energy left to enjoy the post-ride meal. I'm running that same gearing this year and going from 30mm knobbies to 32's.

If you have something to prove or a rep to maintain, then by all means make it as hard for yourself as you wish. But if you just want to have a good time, avoid flats, and enjoy the scenery and the experience . . . then lower your gearing and widen your tires, relax, and go ride. It's not a race unless you make it into one, which some people always seem to be intent on doing.

BBD
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  #35  
Old 08-02-2013, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BumbleBeeDave View Post
. . . wider tires and lower gearing are going to contribute to a more enjoyable day.

In 2008 my lowest gear was a 36-26 and while I survived the 100k ride, I was really hurting at the end and by then it was not enjoyable. But I wanted to prove to myself I could do it and I did--and I've been riding for almost 30 years and am in what I think could accurately be described as good shape. This is a challenging ride by any measure.

Last year with that in mind, I put on a new long cage derailleur and a 34-32 lowest cog combo and it made all the difference in the world. I had a good time, got a great workout, and finished the ride with enough energy left to enjoy the post-ride meal. I'm running that same gearing this year and going from 30mm knobbies to 32's.

If you have something to prove or a rep to maintain, then by all means make it as hard for yourself as you wish. But if you just want to have a good time, avoid flats, and enjoy the scenery and the experience . . . then lower your gearing and widen your tires, relax, and go ride. It's not a race unless you make it into one, which some people always seem to be intent on doing.

BBD

The only change I made for the ride was my gearing, but I didn't speak to that earlier before the thread veered into anything personal.
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  #36  
Old 08-02-2013, 09:24 AM
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it is nice to be able to finish happy and comfy, ready for the feast...im learning that more and more every year i partake.

that said, i think the right gearing and tire choice can contribute handily to that - after three 180k's, I have always rolled in with a new/re-newed appreciation for the 35c conti file-treads I rode and recommend them to any/all taking a cx bike to the ride.

no flats and a comfy ride are really all you can hope for from your equipment, the rest is up to you/your fitness.

bottom line, just run what ya brung and enjoy the scenery!
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  #37  
Old 08-02-2013, 09:53 AM
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less discussion, more bike pictures!
  #38  
Old 08-02-2013, 09:57 AM
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D2R2 Bikes 2013

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  #39  
Old 08-02-2013, 10:16 AM
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D2R2 Bikes 2013

Picture this bike with Grifo or Grifo XS clinchers and a 12-30 cassette.
Had a ball riding around Lyme, CT yesterday. Dirt is in good shape in Beckett Hill State Park. Is anyone here the Sachs rider in the group I met at Beaver Brook and Grassy Hill?
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Last edited by sparky33; 08-02-2013 at 10:26 AM.
  #40  
Old 08-02-2013, 10:22 AM
Cat3roadracer Cat3roadracer is offline
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That Kirk is beautiful.
  #41  
Old 08-02-2013, 10:28 AM
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That Kirk is beautiful.
Thanks. The really beautiful bikes come out of a shop just a mile or two up the road from that spot.
  #42  
Old 08-02-2013, 10:44 AM
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Uh, Richard . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by e-RICHIE View Post
The only change I made for the ride was my gearing, but I didn't speak to that earlier before the thread veered into anything personal.
I think you need a reality check here . . .

Given the terrain involved in this ride and the distances involved, it's not particularly helpful to suggest to readers who may be interested in doing the ride--but never have done it before--to go run 23mm or 25mm street tires. When you suggest such it sends both a message and a meta-message.

Totally aside from gearing, running wider, lower pressure tires is more appropriate for the terrain and will result in a more comfortable ride and fewer flats for most riders.

If you wish to take my particular post as personal, then I guess that's your call.

BBD
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  #43  
Old 08-02-2013, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BumbleBeeDave View Post
If you wish to take my particular post as personal, then I guess that's your call.

BBD
I bet he took this

"If you have something to prove or a rep to maintain, then by all means make it as hard for yourself as you wish."

as personal.

I don't think D2R2 is a beginner rider type ride. From my experience, people contemplating D2R2 are already more advanced riders. That said, I stand by my choice. I took my Zank out for a shakedown ride on similar terrain in Virginia. I was rocking 28mm Ultremos which sounded like the perfect choice. They are a good balance between cush and speed.

Within a few miles, I pinch flatted the front tire. It just turned me off from riding that bike the next day for the full ride. The Zank had nice low gearing, but tires that I wouldn't be as confident on. Next to the Zank was my Ottrott fresh from paint. I had no plans of riding that bike off tarmac. Problem was that was the bike that had 32 spoke Mavic GP4 rims and some Schwalbe Ultremo 25mm tires. I was sweating my decision all night and probably talked a few ears off thinking out loud about it.

I decided the tire type was more important than size and went with them. Forget the fact that the bike had far less than ideal gearing. That was my problem and not the point of my post.

I went with the Serotta and put my normal road pressure in them (90f/95r). There were a lot of pinch flats from people hitting stray rocks at speed. These same rocks show up on all the gravel roads on D2R2. I've seen plenty of people there on the side of the road. To be fair one rider double flatted some tubulars. Other than those, the majority of flats were clinchers due to pinched tubes.

That said you have a few choices.

1) go tubular. Downside? You might not have wheels ready. I wouldn't go out and buy wheels just for this ride.

2) Clinchers. Downside? Pinch flats. If you put enough pressure in them to prevent bottoming out you are bouncing over the terrain too much and it sucks. I had my 28mm Ultremos at 70-80psi which felt safe and secure for handling, but the tires would bounce off the rim on the heaviest hits.

3) tubeless. Downside? Not much. at most new tires and some Stan's tape to convert your existing wheels. The benefits over clinchers is huge. You can run lower pressure. I had my Michelin Jets at no more than 40psi everytime I've ridden them off road. That includes a tough singletrack, 6hr mountain bike endurance race. More pressure means you bounce and you will be less efficient. I now have some Hutchinson Secteurs that I'm trying out and so far I do like them. That's a great alternative and will fit under most road bike's brakes.

Bottom line, if you already have a 'cross bike or touring bike you don't need to buy anything special for this ride (gear up).

If you have a road bike, at most you need some lower gears and a set of Hutchinson Secteurs setup tubeless. No need to go out and buy a "special bike" for this. If you have a single road bike that won't fit 28mm tires, I don't want to talk to you;-) At least you should have a mountain bike. I see plenty of those on this ride.
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  #44  
Old 08-02-2013, 11:13 AM
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Last edited by AngryScientist; 08-02-2013 at 11:52 AM. Reason: totally unnecessary
  #45  
Old 08-02-2013, 11:15 AM
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Oh, more pictures. If I don't bring the Ottrott, I'll bring this. If there's any chance it will be wet, the Zank is a given.



I could even bring this with the Secteurs mounted.



All my bikes are D2R2 compatible.
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