Am I going to die?

[mstateglfr]

Originally Posted by jtbadge

Also 38psi is an absurd amount of pressure for a tire this big so don't worry about it. A lot of pearl clutching around here from people who insist on running their tires with way too much air.

Don't ever look at the silca calculator if you think 38psi on a 40mm actual width gravel tire is too much pressure.

I also love how you announce this as a blanket statement without regard to actual rider details.

[jtbadge]

Originally Posted by mstateglfr

Don't ever look at the silca calculator if you think 38psi on a 40mm actual width gravel tire is too much pressure.

I also love how you announce this as a blanket statement without regard to actual rider details.

You don't need a calculator when you can just ride the damn thing. I'm well over 200 lbs and have been riding 40mm tires for years. 38 psi is rock hard.

[nighthawk]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

Probably - but you' won't be figuratively dead, you'll likely be actually dead. You can live a full life while still worrying about death - as long as that worry motivates you take precautions to minimize the risk of death while doing dangerous things.

I guess the line between worry and awareness is pretty fine.

[GonaSovereign]

I rode Vittoria Tirreno Dry tires on Enve AR rims without ever noticing the warning. I did later mount some Corsas on the same wheels, but it looks like those are compatible.

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by nighthawk

I guess the line between worry and awareness is pretty fine.

Just like the line between fear and panic.

[mstateglfr]

Originally Posted by jtbadge

You don't need a calculator when you can just ride the damn thing. I'm well over 200 lbs and have been riding 40mm tires for years. 38 psi is rock hard.

And I find a 35psi tire that's 43mm wide to feel sluggish and at times a bit wobbly.

It ends up we all have different preferences- hence the many saddle shapes, tape textures, etc.
It was just odd that you were so confidently critical without knowing details.

[carlucci1106]

Originally Posted by jtbadge

You don't need a calculator when you can just ride the damn thing. I'm well over 200 lbs and have been riding 40mm tires for years. 38 psi is rock hard.

I don't know of the geological makeup of your area, so I will not make a judgement about how rocks feel in said locale. See what I did there?

38psi for a 40mm WAM tire, is not only not ludicrous, it's ludicrous to suggest it is outside acceptable pressures for that tire. As MState stated, it comes down to rider preference and terrain. If mostly tarmac and sectors of smooth gravel, I would say, 38psi is on the low end of what I'd run, depending on the casing qualities of the tire.

On semi-smooth road surfaces, harder tires roll faster. There is an advantage to be had in certain conditions to go in the 40psi range.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by oliver1850

I can't keep up it seems. No idea what a hookless rim is.

NOT a tubeless kind of guy but somebody please 'splain to me the advantage of hookless vs hooked tubeless rims to me. Advantage to the rider...not the manufacturer or the marketeers but the rider?

And can a otherwise tire designed for hookless be used on a hooked rim?

And if ya kill that tubeless tire and gotta put a tube in there to get home..can ya do that with hookless?



For KonaSS below-grazie...BUT for the 'big boys' doing gen-u-ine cyclocross, like 'pros' in Europe..don't they still use tubulars?

[KonaSS]

NOT a tubeless kind of guy but somebody please 'splain to me the advantage of hookless vs hooked tubeless rims to me. Advantage to the rider...not the manufacturer or the marketeers but the rider? Not many. Weight is usually quoted, some of the expense savings passed to the rider. The most functional is durability. In the case of rims used for mtb, perhaps cross and gravel. The rim is usually more durable (think hard rim strikes which are a common thing in mtb) if it is hookless.

And can a otherwise tire designed for hookless be used on a hooked rim? yes

And if ya kill that tubeless tire and gotta put a tube in there to get home..can ya do that with hookless? Yes

[ripvanrando]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

NOT a tubeless kind of guy but somebody please 'splain to me the advantage of hookless vs hooked tubeless rims to me. Advantage to the rider...not the manufacturer or the marketeers but the rider?

And can a otherwise tire designed for hookless be used on a hooked rim?

And if ya kill that tubeless tire and gotta put a tube in there to get home..can ya do that with hookless?



For KonaSS below-grazie...BUT for the 'big boys' doing gen-u-ine cyclocross, like 'pros' in Europe..don't they still use tubulars?

Lower rolling resistance, lower CdA, lower weight, lower cost, and higher stall.

https://www.sram.com/globalassets/pu...explained2.pdf

[ripvanrando]

Pressure gauges are notoriously inaccurate.

One boys rock hard 38psi might be a limp noodle for another because gauge accuracy can easily be off +/-5 psi

[redir]

Originally Posted by oliver1850

I can't keep up it seems. No idea what a hookless rim is.

Me too. I'm reading this thread in the hopes to get an education but aside from the existential philosophy on life and death I'm still in the dark as to rim technology. Amusing thread none the less though.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by ripvanrando

Lower rolling resistance, lower CdA, lower weight, lower cost, and higher stall.

https://www.sram.com/globalassets/pu...explained2.pdf

Like I said, not what the marketeers say..

The following pages will help you understand how Zipp wheels make you faster than ever over terrain both smooth and rough. With the right setup, wheels designed using Total System Efficiency can increase cycling speed by 5% for the same power.

[Dave]

I go by the Zipp pressure calculator. For a 200 pound rider, it suggests 43/45 psi with 38mm tires and 25mm IW hookless rims.

Yes, you can install a tube and boot to get home on a damaged tire.

It is wise to try to calibrate your pressure gauge. I use Winters liquid filled gauges as my reference and have a manifold set up so I can compare several gauges at once.

[mstateglfr]

Originally Posted by redir

Me too. I'm reading this thread in the hopes to get an education but aside from the existential philosophy on life and death I'm still in the dark as to rim technology. Amusing thread none the less though.

Its a rim that has sides which look like old steel hookless rims from 40 years ago.
The rim cant handle high pressures because the tire will blow off it and lead to faces slamming into pavement.
- This is OK for MTB where tubeless gets down into the teens for PSI due to wide enough tires.
- This is OK for Gravel where tubeless is in the 35-50psi range depending on tire width and total system weight.
- This gets a bit dicey for road where tubeless has to be higher pressure due to narrower tires. If 73psi is the max for a hookless rim, that gets really close to unsafe for some(many?) cyclists. A 28mm tire on a hookless 20mm internal width rim is at 80-82psi for me, according to Silca. According to Zipp, its 74psi. Regardless, basically I would risk blowing off tires every time I pump up for a ride or actually ride my bike and make a turn.