Suggestions.......Wheel Building....

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by MandM

[IMG]Mavic reflex rims (from unused donor wheel set)

Are these Reflex clincher or tubular rims? The Reflex clincher rim did not have a good reputation for durability - they often cracked at the spoke holes. Mavic stopped making them after two years, likely due to this issue, and replaced them with the Open Pro (which has proven more durable).

[SleepyCyclist]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

Are these Reflex clincher or tubular rims? The Reflex clincher rim did not have a good reputation for durability - they often cracked at the spoke holes. Mavic stopped making them after two years, likely due to this issue, and replaced them with the Open Pro (which has proven more durable).

Yes, they are reflex clinchers.

Never had a problem with this set - I'll do a more careful inspection for cracks.

[Hindmost]

Originally Posted by MandM

[IMG]
Great information in this thread.

Ready to try my first build:
Campy 32h hubs
Mavic reflex rims (from unused donor wheel set)

Need to measure actual ERD - will use the spoke method from the park website.

Planning for double butted spokes and brass nipples.

Qs:
Good online source for spokes?
Spoke/Nipple brand make any difference?
Spoke/Nipple prep? Confused by all the opinions (boiled linseed, gear or motor oil, specific prep compounds, etc)
Pattern recommended for front and rear?

tia, M

Personally, I like vanilla: 14/15, 3x.

One thing I would recommend, for that hub especially, is a locking nipple. Really only necessary on the NDS.

[Gummee]

Originally Posted by MandM

Great information in this thread.

Ready to try my first build:
Campy 32h hubs
Mavic reflex rims (from unused donor wheel set)

Need to measure actual ERD - will use the spoke method from the park website.

Planning for double butted spokes and brass nipples.

Qs:
Good online source for spokes?
Spoke/Nipple brand make any difference?
Spoke/Nipple prep? Confused by all the opinions (boiled linseed, gear or motor oil, specific prep compounds, etc)
Pattern recommended for front and rear?

tia, M

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say 292/294


I'm not too particular about what I lube nipples with. I've used lots of stuff and have found that as long as whatever it is lets the nipple turn freely a few years in, it's good. Lately I've been dipping the ends in some red automotive grease when building at home, or Motorex green grease when building at my last shop.

Give Hoss Active Sports Group a call and get you some Sapims if you can't find a bro deal elsewhere

M

[weisan]

Just finished another build.

Shimano FH5800 105 11 speed hub
Pacenti Forza 32h rim

[speedevil]

You can read the label on the hub through the valve hole in the rim - just like it should be. A small detail that a lot of builders don't spend 10 seconds to make right.

I know it's just a tradition, like mounting the tire with the label at the valve hole, but a lot of us are particular about details and this is no different.

Yes, the wheel will roll fine whether the hub label is lined up or not, and also whether or not the tire label is lined up - but why not?

Nice looking wheels.

[weisan]

Thank you speed pal.

I got two more builds coming up.

650b 32h SP dyno wheelset
700 Dyad 36h touring wheelset

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by speedevil

You can read the label on the hub through the valve hole in the rim - just like it should be. A small detail that a lot of builders don't spend 10 seconds to make right.

I know it's just a tradition, like mounting the tire with the label at the valve hole, but a lot of us are particular about details and this is no different.

Yes, the wheel will roll fine whether the hub label is lined up or not, and also whether or not the tire label is lined up - but why not?

Nice looking wheels.

You mount the label at the valve to use as a reference to try to find whatever gave you the flat is still in the tire.

Yup, easy to get the hub label lined up with valve hole..but ohh so many, and some 'garage wrenches' here, don't understand inside pulling/outside pulling and the advantages/disadvantages of each..but in the grand scheme of things, it means little. I have seen garage 'guys' who build wheels with mixed lacings, wrong lacings, mixed rim labels..all sorts of funky stuff..BUT if they are tensioned correctly, stress relieved, probably OK.

[bikinchris]

As far as lube in wheel building, It's almost impossible to have too much lubrication.
Personally, the better quality Velocity hubs are actually pretty well made.

[Gummee]

There was a post earlier in the thread talking about 'secrets' in wheel building.

Quite honestly, there aren't any. Skill? Yes. Lots. Experience? That too. Secrets? Nope

I can teach a kid how to lace a wheel. That's the easy part. The skill and experience comes in when truing and tensioning.

It really isn't rocket science. Give it a lash and see what happens!

M

[weisan]

650b SP PD-8X dynamo disc wheel

[Joxster]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

You mount the label at the valve to use as a reference to try to find whatever gave you the flat is still in the tire.

Yup, easy to get the hub label lined up with valve hole..but ohh so many, and some 'garage wrenches' here, don't understand inside pulling/outside pulling and the advantages/disadvantages of each..but in the grand scheme of things, it means little. I have seen garage 'guys' who build wheels with mixed lacings, wrong lacings, mixed rim labels..all sorts of funky stuff..BUT if they are tensioned correctly, stress relieved, probably OK.

I build for someone who is full on OCD and I have a set that the front is one out forward and the rear is one out backwards, just to wind him up. I've also got a defib machine to bring him back.

[93KgBike]

I just built up a set of Ksyrium Elites to use on a CX bike I can't stop tinkering and untinkering and retinkering with. Love it.

I got the spokes from the Rogue Mechanic, who is awesome.

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

you should make up some "WL" labels - "weisan lite"

I like the idea of a Ksyrium WL.