#31
|
|||
|
|||
Threadless stem adapter with extra steps
|
#32
|
|||
|
|||
Heating a partially threaded section of steerer to blind braze an adapter tube... so that you can only ever use that fork with a single $240 stem.
Thought I'd seen it all. |
#33
|
||||
|
||||
Seems like a hanger with a noodle to route the entry point forward would be useful for that tight squeeze.
__________________
Party on Comrads! -- Lenin, probably |
#34
|
||||
|
||||
Here’s how I just set up my bike to have a nice curve to the brake cable (same way @oldpotatoe mentioned). The other little trick that you can’t see because of the angle of the photo is to have the hanger slightly off center to the side of the stem where the cable is entering (i.e. biased to the right if you’re on the bike looking down at the stem). Doesn’t hurt brake function and makes the cable run cleaner.
Last edited by Xrslug; 10-19-2021 at 10:16 AM. |
#35
|
|||
|
|||
cleaning up the front end - cantilever brakes
Quote:
That's Jan Heine for you. That's up there with the front derailleur he created that you have to reach down to and push a lever to make a shift https://www.renehersecycles.com/wp-c...1_f_der_wm.jpg |
#36
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Just an FYI, but I've run barend shifter cables all the way under the bar tape, and it shifts just fine. Really cleans up the front end. |
#37
|
||||
|
||||
Interesting… looks good! I’m guilty of “this is how I was taught to do it and I’ve always done it this way” when it comes to cable routing. And I gather no binding or interference at full lock?
|
#38
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
No, shifts great. 10 speed too. Just use quality lubed cables and housing, like Shimano SP-41. It's weird that the instructions say to cable it like you did, and that's what I've done for years. That must be the carryover from when cable housings used to be unlined and cables non stainless. |
#39
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#40
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#41
|
||||
|
||||
True — he’s not running the lathe. Having manufactured by a third party and selling? In any event, he’s causing to be available something that would not otherwise be available, and I think choices are generally good. But I’m wandering increasingly far afield from the OP topic, so I’ll return to course.
|
#42
|
|||
|
|||
Agreed. The mini-motos on my older steel CX bike absolutely rival the hydraulic disks on the fancy carbon bike under most conditions, and the modulation is actually superior. I love them!
__________________
Just some skinny guy, likes bikes. |
#43
|
||||
|
||||
funky munky did the trick. i kept the flexible noodle because without it the housing is just a little too short.
|
#44
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
If it was just another stem, of course they would have sized the clamp for the steerer. An adjustable quill for this stem would be a great addition for anyone wanting to use the stem without a switch (something I would expect to see forthcoming if another limited run of these stems were to be commissioned). Maybe if there were enough demand, a steerer-sized clamp might be incorporated, but this would no doubt alter the time-honored aesthetics of the classic Herse stem, and Jan really seems to treat the original designs with what I would call serious respect. Maybe you've got a better idea for how to incorporate the switch atop the steerer, reduced or not(?). I know that NASA could do it! You also mentioned the "double-clanger" front rod derailer, which was incorporated on his custom-built PBP race bike as something true to the original Herse bikes. But Jan doesn't sell those, since it's a specially brazed-on "retro-touch" that most riders might not immediately feel safely able to use anyway. I've ridden good distances in the foothills using old rod derailers and would say that they can be used safely, at least within the greater context of an "inherently unsafe" activity such as road biking. |
#45
|
||||
|
||||
Well done
|
|
|