The 'Un-Official' Campagnolo Ekar thread

[callmeishmael]

Originally Posted by JLang

Have any of you ran into an issue where the brake lever and the shift lever slightly overlap and jam together, stopping the shifting?

It's super easy to fix, especially now that I know what is causing it. Just a quick tap of the brakes or tap the shifter lever back into place.

Yes. The reach adjust on the paddle needs to be changed to bring it back a touch so it doesn't overlap with the brake lever. There's a tiny little hole on the lever. It's explained here: https://www.swisscycles.com/review-f...icing-speed-6/ with pictures

[kohlboto]

So, the bike is assembled except for the chain. I measured it per Campagnolo’s recommendation and removed the extra links with my KMC chain tool.
Now, I can’t seem to get the C-link to connect as the outer link plate is too wide. I tried it again with the removed links and same result. Pic is of the removed links for reference.
Any tips or suggestions to get this chain together?

[m_sasso]

Originally Posted by kohlboto

So, the bike is assembled except for the chain. I measured it per Campagnolo’s recommendation and removed the extra links with my KMC chain tool.
Now, I can’t seem to get the C-link to connect as the outer link plate is too wide. I tried it again with the removed links and same result. Pic is of the removed links for reference.
Any tips or suggestions to get this chain together?

What kind of riddle is this, never used a quick link before? You need a half link, you can't put a chain together with one inner and one outer link. You require two inner links. Try putting the chain together with the opposite end of the left piece of chain in your picture.

[kohlboto]

Originally Posted by m_sasso

What kind of riddle is this, never used a quick link before? You need a half link, you can't put a chain together with one inner and one outer link. You require two inner links. Try putting the chain together with the opposite end of the left piece of chain in your picture.

No riddle. I am a simple idiot who is too close to the work!

[iPaul]

I have a question on the campy screw length for rear disc caliper mounting screws. Installing some Ekar parts on my frame and it is measuring 30.4 mm's. When I use the 39 mm length screws they seem to be a tad long. Would you think the next shorter size (34) be a better fit or is it typical to have so much thread exposed? Do not think I'm bottom out on the front part of caliper.

Thanks

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by iPaul

I have a question on the campy screw length for rear disc caliper mounting screws. Installing some Ekar parts on my frame and it is measuring 30.4 mm's. When I use the 39 mm length screws they seem to be a tad long. Would you think the next shorter size (34) be a better fit or is it typical to have so much thread exposed? Do not think I'm bottom out on the front part of caliper.

Thanks

From the photo, it appears that an adapter plate is being used so that a 140mm caliper can be used with a 160mm rotor, and that screw is protruding above the adapter plate. I'd go with the Campagnolo's recommended screw length - the screws are available in 5mm increments, and it looks like if you used the next shorter screw, the screw may not extend all the way through the adapter plate (the way it is supposed to).

[iPaul]

Thanks Mark, yes a 140 caliper with adapter to run 160 rotor.
I’ll stick with the one I have assuming I measured accurate enough I’m using the correct size.

[iPaul]

Have one more question concerning a Ekar pressfit 386 BB and best way to press in the cups? Is there a special bottom bracket drift needed to push against the drive side and non-drive cups? Hate to purchase a special tool unless it’s absolutely necessary.
New to campy style BB’s.
Thanks

[Mark McM]

Any cup/bearing press with flat faces wide enough for the outer diameter of the cups should work fine. I've got a Park HHP-2 headset press that I use Campagnolo press fit cups. I simply remove the stepped cup adapters, press the cups with the flat faces of the press.

[iPaul]

Thanks again Mark. Nice to know it’s doable without to much fuss.

[makoti]

Originally Posted by kohlboto

no riddle. I am a simple idiot who is too close to the work!

bt/dt

[iPaul]

Ok so I finally got things installed and chain installed. Here's my observation with things that have me wondering if this is typical campy behavior or I have things poorly installed. First the cranks do not spin all that smooth. Not clear if it's the Ekar heavier seals or something else is a miss. Cups pressed in pretty well from what I can tell.
Secondly I am really struggling with the shifting. Seems to index fine on the first 6 cogs or so but getting up to the last three is hit or miss. If I adjust barrel too much to move up, the chain won't drop from those cogs. Seem to drop to lower cogs fine.
I reviewed the "b" screw adjustment and the set screw is slightly below flush to achieve the 3 mm gap. Could go maybe another link to improve but hard to say.
The resistance in the pedaling is high when moving up the cassette. Jockey cage is pretty strong.
My guess is my cable travel in the full length housing could be hanging up a bit. It felt smooth prior to chain install but not sure what else could be going on.

Anyone else experience getting the shifting to run smooth and is the crank tight to start but breaks in? Coming from Shimano there seems to be a slight learning curve for me here and I've built a bunch of bikes.
Thanks

[vespasianus]

Originally Posted by iPaul

Ok so I finally got things installed and chain installed. Here's my observation with things that have me wondering if this is typical campy behavior or I have things poorly installed. First the cranks do not spin all that smooth. Not clear if it's the Ekar heavier seals or something else is a miss. Cups pressed in pretty well from what I can tell.
Secondly I am really struggling with the shifting. Seems to index fine on the first 6 cogs or so but getting up to the last three is hit or miss. If I adjust barrel too much to move up, the chain won't drop from those cogs. Seem to drop to lower cogs fine.
I reviewed the "b" screw adjustment and the set screw is slightly below flush to achieve the 3 mm gap. Could go maybe another link to improve but hard to say.
The resistance in the pedaling is high when moving up the cassette. Jockey cage is pretty strong.
My guess is my cable travel in the full length housing could be hanging up a bit. It felt smooth prior to chain install but not sure what else could be going on.

Anyone else experience getting the shifting to run smooth and is the crank tight to start but breaks in? Coming from Shimano there seems to be a slight learning curve for me here and I've built a bunch of bikes.
Thanks

Are you talking about spinning the crank with the chain not attached? The cranks spin pretty much the same as any other setup I have.

If something is wrong there, that could explain things. Also, EKAR is very sensitive to hanger alignment, might want to check that.

[herb5998]

For your B Screw adjustment, the 3mm is a guideline, but you may find based on the frame and hanger you have, that you may need more or less clearance.

Yes, getting into the upper jumps with the clutch will feel tougher, but if you get the tension correct for the remainder of the cassette, you should be good, just get some test rides to fine tune, and also to ensure the downshift from large cogs happens smooth under power.

[Gibran]

Originally Posted by iPaul

Ok so I finally got things installed and chain installed. Here's my observation with things that have me wondering if this is typical campy behavior or I have things poorly installed. First the cranks do not spin all that smooth. Not clear if it's the Ekar heavier seals or something else is a miss. Cups pressed in pretty well from what I can tell.
Secondly I am really struggling with the shifting. Seems to index fine on the first 6 cogs or so but getting up to the last three is hit or miss. If I adjust barrel too much to move up, the chain won't drop from those cogs. Seem to drop to lower cogs fine.
I reviewed the "b" screw adjustment and the set screw is slightly below flush to achieve the 3 mm gap. Could go maybe another link to improve but hard to say.
The resistance in the pedaling is high when moving up the cassette. Jockey cage is pretty strong.
My guess is my cable travel in the full length housing could be hanging up a bit. It felt smooth prior to chain install but not sure what else could be going on.

Anyone else experience getting the shifting to run smooth and is the crank tight to start but breaks in? Coming from Shimano there seems to be a slight learning curve for me here and I've built a bunch of bikes.
Thanks

The stock Campy Ekar crank bearings are super draggy when new. Very packed with grease and tight seals, so slow spinning cranks (without the chain engaged) is normal. I usually swap the bearings out since I don’t ride in the wet that much.

For shifting there are a few tricks -
-Check derailleur hanger alignment (as already mentioned by Vespasianus)
-Set the b screw, Campy says 3mm max is the gap, you can get away with 0
-Peel back the cover on the right lever to expose where the cable exits the body and enters the housing. Spray the area where the shift cable is exposed with teflon
-With the rear wheel removed, shift all the way up and down several times and respray the teflon if needed
-Reinstall rear wheel, shift to the 5th cog (from the smallest one) and start indexing from there

You’ll get it pretty good on the stand but you’ll probably need to do micro adjustments while out on the road.

The teflon helped me out a lot on one tricky Ekar build, hope this helps you as well!