The 'Un-Official' Campagnolo Ekar thread

[cgolvin]

Originally Posted by CNY rider

Do you have a T25 Torx?

And a Campy BB tool? (Not specific to Ekar, but then again neither is the cassette tool you mentioned.)

[herb5998]

If your kit is coming packaged up, you’ll need a hydraulic line cutter and olive tool. For torquing the hydraulic lines into the calipers, you’ll need a crow foot or Magura open socket.

A Campagnolo compatible bleed kit helps as well if you don’t have one.


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[kohlboto]

Originally Posted by CNY rider

Do you have a T25 Torx?

I do!

[kohlboto]

Originally Posted by herb5998

If your kit is coming packaged up, you’ll need a hydraulic line cutter and olive tool. For torquing the hydraulic lines into the calipers, you’ll need a crow foot or Magura open socket.

A Campagnolo compatible bleed kit helps as well if you don’t have one.


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That I don’t have. I will have to track one down.
A bleed kit might be a good idea as well…
Everything else, I have.

[martl]

i just received a Stronglight EKAR compatible chainring (38t). Interestingly, it is shaped in a way that is sensitive for outer/inner chain link position - never seen that before. Guess that is why they don't do uneven tooth numbers. Well it was cheaper than the original (90€ compared to 110-140 for the OEM) and, more importantly, available without 29 weeks of waiting period. Couldn't transfer the chain catcher bacause it is riveted on the Campa ring; the Stronglight wants a threaded one, anyway.
Hadn't had a chance to test it. If interest exists, i can give some feedback after the week-end.

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by martl

i just received a Stronglight EKAR compatible chainring (38t). Interestingly, it is shaped in a way that is sensitive for outer/inner chain link position - never seen that before. Guess that is why they don't do uneven tooth numbers. Well it was cheaper than the original (90€ compared to 110-140 for the OEM) and, more importantly, available without 29 weeks of waiting period. Couldn't transfer the chain catcher bacause it is riveted on the Campa ring; the Stronglight wants a threaded one, anyway.
Hadn't had a chance to test it. If interest exists, i can give some feedback after the week-end.

That sounds like you are describing a narrow-wide chainring (alternating narrow and wide teeth, to match the narrow and wide gaps between the chain side plates, which helps to retain the chain). And yes, narrow-wide chainrings can only be an even number of teeth.

Normally, Stronglight chainrings are packaged with the screw-in anti-jam pin uninstalled. The anti-jam pin is usually in a small plastic bag stapled inside the chainring packaging sleeve. Check the packaging to see if the anti-jam pin came with the chainring.

[sparky33]

SRAM and Ekar rotors work equally well. Maybe the Ekar rotors are more perfectly true out of the box.

[Alexi]

I decided to stick with the Swissstop rotors I have and buy some matching pads.

If anyone needs them there are some unused Ekar pads and rotors in the classifieds.

[JLang]

So I decided to pull the trigger. I did a few rides with the Ekar 10-44 and liked the ratio but was constantly struggling to get good shifting with the Archer trail unit. Interesting since it worked perfectly for 11 speed Sram.

The more I messed with it, the more I wanted to go back to cable pull. I also can’t reach the Archer shifter from the drops, it’s hood only. The TRP levers are long and flat which is really a better shape for road, not gravel. It’s a very cool idea but not a legacy system, just like a phone or laptop, good for a few years.

So the rest of the group is on the way. I’ll probably do everything but trim the brake line, as I have never felt like the quality of my work is on par with a shop for hydraulics.

I’m pretty excited. Hopefully there aren’t too many surprises for the installation.

[JLang]

Have any of you ran into an issue where the brake lever and the shift lever slightly overlap and jam together, stopping the shifting?

It's super easy to fix, especially now that I know what is causing it. Just a quick tap of the brakes or tap the shifter lever back into place.

It definitely happened on more than a few occasions on my first ride. And there are occasions when I want to rapid fire the upshift button and it's stuck. I'm kinda slow and explore-y so it's not a huge issue but it is funky.

Can I bring the shift lever closer to the bar? The brake lever distance is about right, I wouldn't want to adjust it further out.

My only other Campy bike is a 2001 Tallerico with 10sp Chorus. I've never had this issue with those Ergo's.

[herb5998]

Yes, there is reach adjust for the brake and shift lever, they are independent adjustments.

Page 12 in the Ekar manual linked below goes over the adjustment.

https://support.campagnolo.com/media...00_03_2021.pdf

[kohlboto]

I’m just installing my Ekar group and I’m on the rear shifter and derailleur. Cable kit includes 3 ferrules. One goes with the RD. Do I use one at the shifter? The third is a spare?

[Mark McM]

This is all explained in the Ergopower Control Levers 12s/13s technical manual.

Long story short: The housing is inserted into the shifter without a ferrule. A ferrules is used at the derailleur, and in the case that a full housing isn't used, at the other ends of the two lengths of housing.

[nalax]

Originally Posted by kohlboto

I’m just installing my Ekar group and I’m on the rear shifter and derailleur. Cable kit includes 3 ferrules. One goes with the RD. Do I use one at the shifter? The third is a spare?

I am also setting up Ekar, but my chain is in the mail. If you are running full housing you just need one ferrule at the RD. I have housing stops on my frame so I'm using two there. You don't use one at the shifter.

" No ferrules in any 2009 and later Campag lever, der or brake. YES, der ferrules in the lever...1993 thru 2008.. " from Old Potato.

Thanks for the link, Mark!

[kohlboto]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

This is all explained in the Ergopower Control Levers 12s/13s technical manual.

Long story short: The housing is inserted into the shifter without a ferrule. A ferrules is used at the derailleur, and in the case that a full housing isn't used, at the other ends of the two lengths of housing.

Of course! Can’t believe I couldn’t figure that out myself.
I’m running full length housing so only one ferrule.
Thanks Mark!