The 'Un-Official' Campagnolo Ekar thread

[yinzerniner]

Originally Posted by robt57

His txt:
"The black tooth is supposed to rest on the dropout stop, but I can’t get it to stay there. The upper screw is the b screw. The striped button is the clutch, I can’t depress it (normal operating position) and have it stay down. I’m sure there is a simple solution but I don’t know what it is."

That rd stop tab / black tooth is mounted in the totally wrong position. It needs to flip clockwise (if looking directly at it from that drive side). The rd needs to be removed and the tab flipped so that it rests on the rd hanger

[robt57]

Thanks, he isn't on the PL as far as I know. But I linked him to the thread and these last few posts.

Hope the info get his new Breadwinner rolling quickly...

[robt57]

Originally Posted by yinzerniner

That rd stop tab / black tooth is mounted in the totally wrong position. It needs to flip clockwise (if looking directly at it from that drive side). The rd needs to be removed and the tab flipped so that it rests on the rd hanger

Dan said:

"Thank Mr. Yinzerniner. D’oh! I should be able to tweak the shifting from here. I tried something like that yesterday but the chain was still on the ring so I couldn’t rotate it far enough. Live and learn."

My first suggestion was to both switch off clutch and/or take chain off the front ring so he could rotate the RD more before attaching. I recalled similar issue mounting my first Di2 Clutch RD. I think it lost something in the translation

Thanks for the help, glad I could help him roll his new bike.

Pic of the beast for the thanks.

[gfk_velo]

Originally Posted by fignon's barber

If the B screw is buried, it indicates the chain is too long (if it sticks out, the chain is too short), and , as Angry said, the striped button will pop up and stay when you yank the rd back.

There is a question of degree there. The B screw needs to be set by reference to the top jockey position, not by how far "in" or "out" the B-Screw sits.

In a "good" set up with correct chain length for the cassette & chainring combination the initial set-up is performed with and a correctly-distanced top jockey, the B-Screw will be *more or less* flush with the RD body - however, if the cassette or chainring are changed within the allowable range (4 teeth max), some alteration of the B screw may be needed in which case the "flush with the RD body rule" won't work.

All assumes the RD is correctly mounted.

There is a good video at www.campagnolo.com under "video tutorials":

https://www.campagnolo.com/WW/en/Sup...ear_derailleur

Apologies for the lift music. I didn't pick it - I did re-work the translation of the script, however ...

[robt57]

My friend stated:

[quote]Abso-freakin-lutely love the bike. Fits perfectly, super comfortable, handles well, the now dialed in Ekar shifting is I think my best system, including e-tap.[quote]


His comment on the ekar VS e-tape I am paying attention to as I've aware of his strong e-tap druthers last few years since 1st one.

Knowing his bike builds and asking lots of learning question I can say his comment has the effect on me I may order an just Ekar group soon. Skip 12s and goto directly to 13...

[vespasianus]

[QUOTE=robt57;3177051]My friend stated:

[quote]Abso-freakin-lutely love the bike. Fits perfectly, super comfortable, handles well, the now dialed in Ekar shifting is I think my best system, including e-tap.

His comment on the ekar VS e-tape I am paying attention to as I've aware of his strong e-tap druthers last few years since 1st one.

Knowing his bike builds and asking lots of learning question I can say his comment has the effect on me I may order an just Ekar group soon. Skip 12s and goto directly to 13...

Other people have reported slower shifting with EKAR but my bike is like your friends. Shifts are fast and downshifts have the typical Campag clunk. I keep my bike pretty clean so that might be helping but honestly, shifting on modern systems - electronic or mechanical - are just so good.

[Alexi]

What are peoples feelings on Ekar rotors? I'm generally a fan of the Swisstop Catalyst Pro rotors, and have a few spare pairs, save some money by running the Catalyst or go with Ekar?

[vespasianus]

Originally Posted by Alexi

What are peoples feelings on Ekar rotors? I'm generally a fan of the Swisstop Catalyst Pro rotors, and have a few spare pairs, save some money by running the Catalyst or go with Ekar?

I find the Ekar rotors to be fine and they have not warped in the year I have ridden them.

As the same time, I think any 1.85 rotors would work.

[binouye]

Originally Posted by vespasianus

I find the Ekar rotors to be fine and they have not warped in the year I have ridden them.

As the same time, I think any 1.85 rotors would work.

I've run Ekar with both Campy rotors and Sram Centerline rotors. Both good (the Ekar brakes are great), but the Ekar rotors were a little quieter. Of course, newer too, but I think noise has more to do with shape of cutouts, etc.. I've had good luck with SwissStop replacement pads, but have never used their rotors.

[JLang]

Hey guys, new here. I wanted to share the semi absurd Ekar thing I’ve done.

I have ran Sram 11sp using the Electronic Archer Trail D1x on my Swiss Cross for a year or two now. I like the range but the 10-44 I am using is just too big of jumps in the actual moving gears. Been wanting Ekar 10-44 for a while.

I watched some videos and read a bit and it seemed like it was possible without the whole groupo

Here is the parts list, a star at the end means it was already on the bike.

SRAM Force Crank *
Wolftooth 42t Oval *
Sram Flattop chain
Ekar 10-44 cassette
Archer Trail D1x shifting (this is only compatible with TRP Hylex levers so that is what I have as well)*
Shimano 11s XT rear derailleur*
Bitex 106R with N3W driver

Once together and adjusted, which is easy with Archer, it works great. Quiet, fast shifts, positive, no weird noises.

Two troubleshooting moments came up. Those 5 bolts on the back of the cassette were rubbing against the spokes. I finally just filed them a tiny bit instead of trying to space out the cassette.

The second is that the flattop does not sit flush on a shimano 11sp top pulley. I had a Sram Rival that I stole the top pulley from and it works great.

So far I’m very pleased. The shakedown rides on it will be the weekend, so if something funny comes up, I don’t know about it yet. I’ll update if I get thrown any more major monkey wrenches.

[Gwerziou]

Originally Posted by JLang

Hey guys, new here. I wanted to share the semi absurd Ekar thing I’ve done.
I have ran Sram 11sp using the Electronic Archer Trail...
Sram Flattop chain...
Once together and adjusted, which is easy with Archer, it works great. Quiet, fast shifts, positive, no weird noises...

So just the Ekar cassette. Are you the same 'andreszucs' that kept posting about Archer on the weightweenies Ekar thread until asked by the group to stop? I wonder how many Archer enthusiasts using an Ekar cassette are out there? If you're not him you should look him up - you guys will absolutely love each other!

[JLang]

Originally Posted by Gwerziou

So just the Ekar cassette. Are you the same 'andreszucs' that kept posting about Archer on the weightweenies Ekar thread until asked by the group to stop? I wonder how many Archer enthusiasts using an Ekar cassette are out there? If you're not him you should look him up - you guys will absolutely love each other!

I probably won't love him, I love my dog and my kids, when they're quiet. I don't know what that says about me.

I signed up to ask questions about potentially doing this. By the time my account was approved and active, I'd already done it, I thought someone would appreciate it. Perhaps being an Archer-ite makes you a pariah among the Veluminati.

It's on a Swiss Cross V2 with the anniversary paintjob, #66. It's the type of bike that doesn't age and I won't be selling. I do expect that I'll still be riding and still love this bike long after the plastic and batteries in my shifters have worn out and replacements have gone the way of a flip-phone. In 5 years, I just might be moving it all over to "vintage" Ekar to avoid obsolescence.

[Gwerziou]

Originally Posted by JLang

I probably won't love him, I love my dog and my kids, when they're quiet. I don't know what that says about me.

I signed up to ask questions about potentially doing this. By the time my account was approved and active, I'd already done it, I thought someone would appreciate it. Perhaps being an Archer-ite makes you a pariah among the Veluminati.

It's on a Swiss Cross V2 with the anniversary paintjob, #66. It's the type of bike that doesn't age and I won't be selling. I do expect that I'll still be riding and still love this bike long after the plastic and batteries in my shifters have worn out and replacements have gone the way of a flip-phone. In 5 years, I just might be moving it all over to "vintage" Ekar to avoid obsolescence.

Those are sweet bikes! I have a Gunnar that I feel that way about.

[kohlboto]

I have an Ekar group en route (hopefully arriving next week) and I am looking at my tool collection, wondering if I need anything Ekar specific. I already have the 10mm hex extension for Ultra Torque fixing bolt and a BB tool. I assume I will need a Campy cassette tool, as well. Am I missing anything else particular to the Ekar group?
Thanks in advance!
Cheers,
Jay

[CNY rider]

Originally Posted by kohlboto

I have an Ekar group en route (hopefully arriving next week) and I am looking at my tool collection, wondering if I need anything Ekar specific. I already have the 10mm hex extension for Ultra Torque fixing bolt and a BB tool. I assume I will need a Campy cassette tool, as well. Am I missing anything else particular to the Ekar group?
Thanks in advance!
Cheers,
Jay

Do you have a T25 Torx?