The 'Un-Official' Campagnolo Ekar thread

[whistle]

I'm building a bike with Ekar... first time building a bike, so not sure if this a really stupid question: I'm trying to figure out what the deal is with the disc rotor lockring/locknut (which is mentioned in this manual). Does this come with any of the components? I can't find the lockring anywhere and I have the boxes for the brakes + rotors and my wheels in front of me. Do I need to buy these separately? If yes, can I use any Centerlock lockring that has external teeth, e.g. Shimano XT M8010, Wolf Tooth's lockring, etc?

Bonus question: for the interface between the rotors and the hub, does Campy have an official recommendation for grease or not? I've seen a bunch of build videos where they grease it, but Park Tool's video on installing rotors says don't use grease on Centerlock rotors.

Thanks guys.

[carlucci1106]

Just built an Ekar bike, and it did not come with lockrings. As the wheels were Shimano originally (switched FH), the Shimano lockrings worked fine, but eventually the owner switched to Wolf Tooth. So, yes, both of those work.

I think the Campy wheels have a lockring which is threaded on the external face of the shell, rather than internal. So, I believe you can only use these lockrings on Camp/Fulcrum wheels.

I would not grease the lockring. No need, just don't torque it crazy hard; it is the same as a cassette l/r at 40nM

[Dave]

Lock rings go with the wheels, not the component group. Follow instructions for the wheels or hubs. I use anti-sieze on the threads.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by whistle

I'm building a bike with Ekar... first time building a bike, so not sure if this a really stupid question: I'm trying to figure out what the deal is with the disc rotor lockring/locknut (which is mentioned in this manual). Does this come with any of the components? I can't find the lockring anywhere and I have the boxes for the brakes + rotors and my wheels in front of me. Do I need to buy these separately? If yes, can I use any Centerlock lockring that has external teeth, e.g. Shimano XT M8010, Wolf Tooth's lockring, etc?

Bonus question: for the interface between the rotors and the hub, does Campy have an official recommendation for grease or not? I've seen a bunch of build videos where they grease it, but Park Tool's video on installing rotors says don't use grease on Centerlock rotors.

Thanks guys.

Answered above re: lock rings but some grease, any grease, or antisieze on threads is always a good idea..rotor lock rings included. Torque properly.

[bigbill]

I'm giving serious consideration to a 3T with Ekar later this year. It comes with Fulcrum Red Wind wheels. I have a pair of disc Boyd Altamonts that has a 13 speed freehub available so I'd have a second set of wheels.

[GScot]

Originally Posted by bigbill

I'm giving serious consideration to a 3T with Ekar later this year. It comes with Fulcrum Red Wind wheels. I have a pair of disc Boyd Altamonts that has a 13 speed freehub available so I'd have a second set of wheels.

Do it! I built up a Strada for Karen this year with Shamals. She loves it. The only bump in the road was the shifter came with short sections of housing. The Strada needs a full run of shifter housing. Velocipede set me up with a campy bleed kit and supplies. The brakes were dead easy to set up and have been quiet and trouble free.

[bigbill]

Originally Posted by GScot

Do it! I built up a Strada for Karen this year with Shamals. She loves it. The only bump in the road was the shifter came with short sections of housing. The Strada needs a full run of shifter housing. Velocipede set me up with a campy bleed kit and supplies. The brakes were dead easy to set up and have been quiet and trouble free.

I'm looking at the Exploro RaceMax with Ekar. The road riding around here is rough, there are shoulders, but they have heaves and all kinds of junk. I'd like to run a wider tire. 38T with a 9-42 should handle anything I ride, including some singletrack.

[GScot]

Originally Posted by bigbill

I'm looking at the Exploro RaceMax with Ekar. The road riding around here is rough, there are shoulders, but they have heaves and all kinds of junk. I'd like to run a wider tire. 38T with a 9-42 should handle anything I ride, including some singletrack.

Sounds great. Karen's Strada is running tubeless 28s. 30s would fit but would leave minimal clearance.

If you make it down to PHX let us know. Could get a beer or check out the shop if you want to see big machinery.

[bigbill]

Originally Posted by GScot

Sounds great. Karen's Strada is running tubeless 28s. 30s would fit but would leave minimal clearance.

If you make it down to PHX let us know. Could get a beer or check out the shop if you want to see big machinery.

I should be able to run Schwalbe G-Ones in 35 or 38mm. I retired Friday, so we're heading to Wyoming this week to escape the heat until September. While we're up there I'll order the bike so it arrives after we're back. I'll leave the Coconino Dirt Road Racer at our Wyoming place with its gravel wheels. The gravel wheels have WI XMR hubs that don't have an available 13S freehub, but the Boyd Altamonts do.

Since I'm retired and my lovely wife runs a soap business and is an artist, we plan on escaping to the south when the temps get cold here.

[vespasianus]

Originally Posted by whistle

I'm building a bike with Ekar... first time building a bike, so not sure if this a really stupid question: I'm trying to figure out what the deal is with the disc rotor lockring/locknut (which is mentioned in this manual). Does this come with any of the components? I can't find the lockring anywhere and I have the boxes for the brakes + rotors and my wheels in front of me. Do I need to buy these separately? If yes, can I use any Centerlock lockring that has external teeth, e.g. Shimano XT M8010, Wolf Tooth's lockring, etc?

Bonus question: for the interface between the rotors and the hub, does Campy have an official recommendation for grease or not? I've seen a bunch of build videos where they grease it, but Park Tool's video on installing rotors says don't use grease on Centerlock rotors.

Thanks guys.

Fulcrum/Campag use a slightly different Lockring so make sure you buy the correct one.

I actually put a little bit of grease on the threads. I hate when the ring gets so tight you can't get it off.

[robt57]

Friend 3k miles east got new Ekar bike and putting in rear wheel not going well. I suspect it will take a clutch release prior to wheel install, but zero experience with the groupo myself.

Looking at pic, seems stop nub should be resting on B screw shelf on RD hanger??

I looked at and sent the Campy PDF to him thus far...

Comments appreciated...

His txt:
"The black tooth is supposed to rest on the dropout stop, but I can’t get it to stay there. The upper screw is the b screw. The striped button is the clutch, I can’t depress it (normal operating position) and have it stay down. I’m sure there is a simple solution but I don’t know what it is."

[AngryScientist]

I'm not sure I follow the question/problem, but the ekar RD has a clutch "hold" position to install/remove the wheel. You have to grab the body of the RD and rotate it backwards all the way and the button pops out to hold it. To re-engage, slightly rotate the RD backwards and push the button in.

Yes, it's tricky the first few times you do it...

[robt57]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

I'm not sure I follow the question/problem

Yeah, shoulda said. RD not sitting right nor shifting well at all. Seems he said the B screw in buried, is that normal?

[nighthawk]

Originally Posted by robt57

Yeah, shoulda said. RD not sitting right nor shifting well at all. Seems he said the B screw in buried, is that normal?

What Angry said. He needs to rotate the RD rearward, and depress the cage lock button. Then just let it settle back into normal operating position.

Page 10 here: https://www.campagnolo.com/media/fil..._10_22_ENG.pdf

[fignon's barber]

Originally Posted by robt57

Yeah, shoulda said. RD not sitting right nor shifting well at all. Seems he said the B screw in buried, is that normal?

If the B screw is buried, it indicates the chain is too long (if it sticks out, the chain is too short), and , as Angry said, the striped button will pop up and stay when you yank the rd back.