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  #46  
Old 05-01-2024, 03:45 PM
NHAero NHAero is offline
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Originally Posted by Mikej View Post
So, when measuring for wear, are waxed chains giving a false reading since the wax is filling the void? I’ve had this in the back of my head but always forget to check during an in between chain cleaning. Just curious.
Josh will know the right answer, but the sense i have is that under the pressure of pedaling the wax film is squeezed down to a micro thickness as any other lubricant would be. But I guess that if what you are imagining is true, would it matter? What we care about with chain wear is the worn chain wearing the more costly bits (cassettes and chainrings) so if the link spacing is kept correct by wax filler, it would be no different from the perspective of the cogs (?)
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  #47  
Old 05-01-2024, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by kgreene10 View Post
I’m considering joining the club but I have a question about chain removal. If I recall correctly, Shimano and SRAM quicklinks aren’t reusable. Do you reuse anyway and, if so, how do you know when it’s no longer safe? Or do you have another approach?
I use the KMC quicklinks...I think they say you can reuse them 5 times...as mentioned earlier, when they get to easy to snap together it's time to toss them.

I always add a couple to my BikeTiresDirect orders to have a stash handy.
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  #48  
Old 05-02-2024, 11:03 AM
joshatsilca joshatsilca is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHAero View Post
Josh will know the right answer, but the sense i have is that under the pressure of pedaling the wax film is squeezed down to a micro thickness as any other lubricant would be. But I guess that if what you are imagining is true, would it matter? What we care about with chain wear is the worn chain wearing the more costly bits (cassettes and chainrings) so if the link spacing is kept correct by wax filler, it would be no different from the perspective of the cogs (?)
Yes, the wax film ends up only microns thick after a bit of riding so you get more or less the same measurement if you measure a waxed chain with 100km as you do if you boil that chain and measure it again.. Chains will definitely measure with less wear immediately after waxing, so don't do that! ;-)
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  #49  
Old 05-02-2024, 12:22 PM
bshell bshell is offline
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Josh/everybody --

I've been very happy with melted wax the last few years but I feel like the chain needs to be redipped on my single speed mtb more frequently on any of my geared bikes (road or dirt).

Is their any explanation to this other than my faulty imagination?
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  #50  
Old 05-02-2024, 12:37 PM
NHAero NHAero is offline
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Originally Posted by bshell View Post
Josh/everybody --

I've been very happy with melted wax the last few years but I feel like the chain needs to be redipped on my single speed mtb more frequently on any of my geared bikes (road or dirt).

Is their any explanation to this other than my faulty imagination?
I first started waxing with Squirt drip wax on my FS 29er. I wiped the chain and re-lubed almost every ride, and with a SRAM XX1 chain I got 3,000 miles from that chain. Road chains last me longer. Currently since I have switched to crockpot waxing I have two XX1 chains for that bike and plan to swap chains every 1,500 miles, with drip wax in between. I don't know if this is optimal but I have had this bike for over 8 years, something over 5,000 miles, and I'm on the original XX1 cassette except for the largest aluminum cog which I have replaced once. I did have to replace the 26T chainring!
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  #51  
Old 05-02-2024, 02:08 PM
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benadrian benadrian is offline
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Okay, I wax amateur style and found that it has been really great. Wax-based lube in between immersions.

I have had this question, but never a good place to ask. I'll ask here:
Everyone talks about having to clean the chain very, very well with usually harsh chemicals. What happens if you don't do this? What happens if you clean it, but maybe to 95% of clean, but not 100% of clean?

My hypothesis is that the remaining factory grease will either impede wax from getting in, or break down the wax more quickly. Of course, I've never tested this.

I ask because I degreased and cleaned my chain quite well, but not to the "acetone bath" level. The waxing seems to work great. I presume it would just be better if I did a better cleaning.

Cheers!
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  #52  
Old 05-02-2024, 02:15 PM
gravelreformist gravelreformist is offline
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I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes. I clean my chains pretty well prior to first wax, going through ~3 cycles in mineral spirits, but not nearly to the lengths that some go. I've been adding wax to the same pot for nearly 10k miles now and I've had no issues. Sometimes the wax lasts 50 miles (wet gravel race), sometimes it lasts 500 miles (road bike only ridden on nice days).
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  #53  
Old 05-02-2024, 03:04 PM
makoti makoti is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benadrian View Post
Okay, I wax amateur style and found that it has been really great. Wax-based lube in between immersions.

I have had this question, but never a good place to ask. I'll ask here:
Everyone talks about having to clean the chain very, very well with usually harsh chemicals. What happens if you don't do this? What happens if you clean it, but maybe to 95% of clean, but not 100% of clean?

My hypothesis is that the remaining factory grease will either impede wax from getting in, or break down the wax more quickly. Of course, I've never tested this.

I ask because I degreased and cleaned my chain quite well, but not to the "acetone bath" level. The waxing seems to work great. I presume it would just be better if I did a better cleaning.

Cheers!
Do the best you can, then give in one more soak and call it a day. The difference between a new chain and on older, dirty one being waxed is fairly dramatic, from my very limited experience. The new one seems to hold the wax better. Could be that the small amount of dirt left (and there will always be a small amount left) does impede the wax penetration. Could be my imagination. Either way, I ill not bother cleaning an old chain. Run it until dead, then switch
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  #54  
Old 05-02-2024, 03:08 PM
weiwentg weiwentg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benadrian View Post
Okay, I wax amateur style and found that it has been really great. Wax-based lube in between immersions.

I have had this question, but never a good place to ask. I'll ask here:
Everyone talks about having to clean the chain very, very well with usually harsh chemicals. What happens if you don't do this? What happens if you clean it, but maybe to 95% of clean, but not 100% of clean?

My hypothesis is that the remaining factory grease will either impede wax from getting in, or break down the wax more quickly. Of course, I've never tested this.

I ask because I degreased and cleaned my chain quite well, but not to the "acetone bath" level. The waxing seems to work great. I presume it would just be better if I did a better cleaning.

Cheers!
This is a good question. It's better to clean the chain more thoroughly. That said, my first wax chain when I used the drip lube, in retrospect I only got it to maybe 95-98% clean. There may have been a slight residue when I wiped it. It did hold the wax fine, it lasted quite a long time. I forget, but should have been well over 5k miles. That was a used chain, run with wet lube for some time (1-2k miles?)

Someone on a Discord server I'm on swears that they just put their chains, factory grease and all, in plain high-grade paraffin and it works just fine.

Anyway, now that you have waxed the chain, I would treat the matter as settled.
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  #55  
Old 05-02-2024, 03:29 PM
Mikej Mikej is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHAero View Post
I first started waxing with Squirt drip wax on my FS 29er. I wiped the chain and re-lubed almost every ride, and with a SRAM XX1 chain I got 3,000 miles from that chain. Road chains last me longer. Currently since I have switched to crockpot waxing I have two XX1 chains for that bike and plan to swap chains every 1,500 miles, with drip wax in between. I don't know if this is optimal but I have had this bike for over 8 years, something over 5,000 miles, and I'm on the original XX1 cassette except for the largest aluminum cog which I have replaced once. I did have to replace the 26T chainring!
I'd swap the chains every other waxing, not at 1500 miles, unless I am reading your plan incorrectly. This way each chain will be less worn overall. Use one, use the other, then wax them both, but remember which is #1 and #2.
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  #56  
Old 05-02-2024, 03:58 PM
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Bob Ross Bob Ross is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikej View Post
I'd swap the chains every other waxing, not at 1500 miles, unless I am reading your plan incorrectly. This way each chain will be less worn overall. Use one, use the other, then wax them both, but remember which is #1 and #2.
Wait, why does it matter which is #1 and which is #2 if they both have the same amount of use and the both have been waxed the same number of times?

Or am I misunderstanding your post? thx
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  #57  
Old 05-02-2024, 04:09 PM
Mikej Mikej is offline
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Originally Posted by Bob Ross View Post
Wait, why does it matter which is #1 and which is #2 if they both have the same amount of use and the both have been waxed the same number of times?

Or am I misunderstanding your post? thx
Yes, its a joke, as long as you use them both per each waxing you would get equal use on the drivetrain.

Last edited by Mikej; 05-02-2024 at 04:12 PM.
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  #58  
Old 05-02-2024, 05:00 PM
TerryDi2 TerryDi2 is offline
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I have been using waxed chains on the bike ever since I moved to 12-speed Di2.

A couple of weeks ago I saw Josh' video on how to best apply drip wax (or any other drip lube really) - love the videos/explanations Josh still uploads frequently

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vot15ro-fcE
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  #59  
Old 05-02-2024, 06:51 PM
Carbonita Carbonita is offline
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Hmmm. I bet you'd be a great Marginal Gains guest!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TerryDi2 View Post
I have been using waxed chains on the bike ever since I moved to 12-speed Di2.

A couple of weeks ago I saw Josh' video on how to best apply drip wax (or any other drip lube really) - love the videos/explanations Josh still uploads frequently

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vot15ro-fcE
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  #60  
Old 10-31-2024, 04:41 PM
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benadrian benadrian is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benadrian View Post
I have had this question, but never a good place to ask. I'll ask here:
Everyone talks about having to clean the chain very, very well with usually harsh chemicals. What happens if you don't do this? What happens if you clean it, but maybe to 95% of clean, but not 100% of clean?

My hypothesis is that the remaining factory grease will either impede wax from getting in, or break down the wax more quickly. Of course, I've never tested this.

I ask because I degreased and cleaned my chain quite well, but not to the "acetone bath" level. The waxing seems to work great. I presume it would just be better if I did a better cleaning.

Cheers!
I've answered my own question through bike jackassery!

I received a lightly used chain in a groupset sale that seems like it had traditional wet lube. I degreased, scrubbed, rinsed, and then lightly degreased again. It seemed fairly clean from the outside.

I did a full immersion wax, let it dry, and put it on my bike. Well, there was still some lube inside the rollers, plus there must have been some on the pulley wheels. The wax and oil mixed and it turned into a dark gray material somewhere in between snot and grease. Pretty gross.

The oil seemed to make the wax a bit more liquid, but just enough that it got sticky and gummed up the lower cogs in my cassette. I spent a while cleaning everything up, and cleaning out the cassette with a small metal pick.

It seems fine now, but my guess is that it will need a re-wax very shortly.

So yeah, starting from a new chain with factory grease, I feel like I can get away with a basic degreasing. If the chain has ever been hit with some serious wet lube, it needs more attention.
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