I hate chain whips...

[gravelreformist]

I'm still confused how your knuckles can be in danger during this process, so I just checked out the Park Tool video to see how they are recommending doing it, and surprisingly, despite demonstrating several methods, none are as simple or as safe as the method I learned in the shop 30 years ago as a teenager.

Place the wheel upright on the ground in front of your with the cassette facing away from you (the top of the wheel will be resting against you for support). For removal, the chain whip is in your left hand, your wrench on the lockring tool in your right. Both should be placed just above parallel with the floor. Hold the chain whip firmly and loosen while pushing down with your right hand. This method is fast and effective, and your hands are literally a foot or more away from anything that could hurt them, and pushing in a direction where there is no possibility of contact.

[benb]

Originally Posted by gravelreformist

I'm still confused how your knuckles can be in danger during this process, so I just checked out the Park Tool video to see how they are recommending doing it, and surprisingly, despite demonstrating several methods, none are as simple or as safe as the method I learned in the shop 30 years ago as a teenager.

Place the wheel upright on the ground in front of your with the cassette facing away from you (the top of the wheel will be resting against you for support). For removal, the chain whip is in your left hand, your wrench on the lockring tool in your right. Both should be placed just above parallel with the floor. Hold the chain whip firmly and loosen while pushing down with your right hand. This method is fast and effective, and your hands are literally a foot or more away from anything that could hurt them, and pushing in a direction where there is no possibility of contact.

This is how I do it. I don’t really remember how I learned it. My brother worked at a bike shop back around when I started riding. Maybe he told me to do it. It’s very safe.

The sketchiest thing I do is removing pedals. Most especially pedals like modern Ultegra and D/A SPD-SL that have no flats for using a big pedal wrench. I always wear heavy gloves as in the past I’ve cut myself on the chainrings.

[DeBike]

I, also, do not get the injuring oneself due to a chain whip mishap, if they are properly placed on the cassette. My hand would not contact the cassette, even with a total disconnect between the whip and the cogs. I do understand how the cassette pliers simplifies the process, but, I am fine with the whip.

[glepore]

Originally Posted by benb

This is how I do it. I don’t really remember how I learned it. My brother worked at a bike shop back around when I started riding. Maybe he told me to do it. It’s very safe.

The sketchiest thing I do is removing pedals. Most especially pedals like modern Ultegra and D/A SPD-SL that have no flats for using a big pedal wrench. I always wear heavy gloves as in the past I’ve cut myself on the chainrings.

I don't do pedals with a wrench for removal, I use a battery impact.

[benb]

Originally Posted by glepore

I don't do pedals with a wrench for removal, I use a battery impact.

Interesting. I have one of those. I would expect that is very safe for the mechanic but I’m not sure I’d trust it to be safe for weight weenie cranks.

[NHAero]

Gravelreformist's method is the one I use and I haven't felt vulnerable to injuring myself over the years. I have the long handled Foundation lockring tool which for $11 removes the potential for a wrench to slip off of the cassette tool.

My method for removing pedals is to lean the bike against a wall. Set the crankarm with the pedal to be removed in a forward, slightly more than 3 o'clock position. Insert the L style hex key into the pedal with the long arm facing down, holding it in with the left hand, and tap it as needed with a rubber mallet.

[Gsinill]

Originally Posted by benb

Interesting. I have one of those. I would expect that is very safe for the mechanic but I’m not sure I’d trust it to be safe for weight weenie cranks.

While I never hurt myself, I don't particularly appreciate fiddling with the whip, either.
As mentioned earlier, I always go slow and make sure everything is aligned and in place correctly.
If I were to change cassettes more often, I would try Pedro's pro chain whip. The retaining hook seems to address the main issue of the whip not staying in place.

[HenryA]

Originally Posted by gravelreformist

I'm still confused how your knuckles can be in danger during this process, so I just checked out the Park Tool video to see how they are recommending doing it, and surprisingly, despite demonstrating several methods, none are as simple or as safe as the method I learned in the shop 30 years ago as a teenager.

Place the wheel upright on the ground in front of your with the cassette facing away from you (the top of the wheel will be resting against you for support). For removal, the chain whip is in your left hand, your wrench on the lockring tool in your right. Both should be placed just above parallel with the floor. Hold the chain whip firmly and loosen while pushing down with your right hand. This method is fast and effective, and your hands are literally a foot or more away from anything that could hurt them, and pushing in a direction where there is no possibility of contact.

This^^^^^

Or as posted a page or so back, put the lock ring tool in a vise and lay the wheel on that then use the whip.

Either way, no blood, no cussing.

[glepore]

Originally Posted by benb

Interesting. I have one of those. I would expect that is very safe for the mechanic but I’m not sure I’d trust it to be safe for weight weenie cranks.

Set it to its lowest power if using 1/2 inch. I prefer to use the 3/8 one for pedals that I've put on, and I don't run those up at full power ever. Never had an issue in 5+ years of using it with Sram carbon cranks (bonded inserts).

[tv_vt]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

I have the abbey chain whip. I still hate it. Always seems just on the verge of out of control and smashed knuckles when I use it to remove a particularly stuck lockring.

My shop has, as all good shops should, a sturdy workbench and bench vise.

Is there anything out there that would allow me to clamp a cassette securely into a vise and easily remove a lockring?

I've seen and considered the vise-grip style pliers, but they dont seem long enough to have enough leverage to get the job done. Perhaps I could use them and clamp them in the bench vise?

Anything out there that I'm not aware of maybe?

Haven't read through all the comments, but your original post doesn't make sense to me. You don't use a chain whip on a lock ring. You drape the chain whip over any of the cassette cogs to keep the freehub from rotating and use the splined lockring tool (like the Crombie tool from Abbey) to loosen the lockring. To tighten the lockring back up, you don't even need a chain whip because you're tightening against the freehub friction, just tighten with the Crombie tool. That's how it works with Shimano. Never ever use a chain whip with the lockring.

[cgolvin]

Originally Posted by hokoman

For $17 at the local decathlon store. Works well... I was a little skeptical, but has spacing for 5 different sizes. 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14.

I have a Pedro's tool that only supports 11 and 12 cogs, which has served me well. Unfortunately, your post made me realize that my Ekar cassette has a 9 speed cog so I guess I'll be pulling out the chain whip when it comes time to service it

[bshell]

Originally Posted by tv_vt

Haven't read through all the comments, but your original post doesn't make sense to me. You don't use a chain whip on a lock ring. You drape the chain whip over any of the cassette cogs to keep the freehub from rotating and use the splined lockring tool (like the Crombie tool from Abbey) to loosen the lockring. To tighten the lockring back up, you don't even need a chain whip because you're tightening against the freehub friction, just tighten with the Crombie tool. That's how it works with Shimano. Never ever use a chain whip with the lockring.

Though it wasn't stated in his post I'm fairly confident the OP meant that the chain whip was used appropriately in conjunction with a lock ring tool and wrench of some sort.

I have to say, my chain whip is possibly the oldest and crappiest tool I own and have had no problems. No-name, steel flat stock with with some chain pieces riveted on. And zero effort toward ergonomics or comfort whatsoever. Just a thick rectangle w/o a radius anywhere ahahhaaha.



***Do we all know the old method of installing a quick release skewer/nut through the axle to keep the lock ring tool stable and prevent stripping? There may be modern configs where this doesn't work -I don't keep up with them.

[bshell]

Originally Posted by gravelreformist

I'm still confused how your knuckles can be in danger during this process, so I just checked out the Park Tool video to see how they are recommending doing it, and surprisingly, despite demonstrating several methods, none are as simple or as safe as the method I learned in the shop 30 years ago as a teenager.

Place the wheel upright on the ground in front of your with the cassette facing away from you (the top of the wheel will be resting against you for support). For removal, the chain whip is in your left hand, your wrench on the lockring tool in your right. Both should be placed just above parallel with the floor. Hold the chain whip firmly and loosen while pushing down with your right hand. This method is fast and effective, and your hands are literally a foot or more away from anything that could hurt them, and pushing in a direction where there is no possibility of contact.

Also ^^^ this description/method is perfect.

[oliver1850]

I like the looks of the Stein tool but wonder why they don't offer an 11-12-13 tooth model. Universal cycles has the 11-12 listed for $19 but they are out of stock.

[bironi]

My local frame builder/mechanic showed me how to combine whip and vice placing the wheel horizontally in the vice clamping the whip wrap. Now you have the captains wheel for sate and easy leverage Im no mechanic, but it works for me.