#46
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#47
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I was hoping you would say, "no worries, weisan pal, I will carry you home."
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#48
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But seriously, it's dead easy to add sealant every once in a while: 1. release air pressure 2. remove valve core 3. use the coffee stirrer thingy to clear out dry sealant 4. add 2-4 oz. of sealant 5. reinstall valve core 6. pump up your tires Only takes a couple of minutes and might save you a lot more if you had to change a flat. |
#49
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Why use any air? Just fill the tire with sealant. That way it can't dry out.
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#50
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One other consideration. Folks talk about carrying a tube in case their tubeless tire didn't seal or work with a plug. I have 28-38mm tubes in the bag on my gravel bike, and have almost zero faith they'd get me home. The inside of my gravel tires are a minefield of stuff that would have given me a flat with a tube. The tubes are a mental placebo, in reality, they'd flat before I ever reached 20#. But maybe I'd get lucky enough to find all the thorns, wires, and glass, and remove them from the tire before installing a tube. But it only takes one missed thorn to mess it all up. I am a believer in high quality tires and frequent inspections.
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#51
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maybe he will clean off your butt, though
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#52
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Sealant yes on mountain bike tires and Iāll never go back.
But Iāve had similar experiences with road and gravel tubeless, so I stick with tubes. FWIW I did a few pretty rough gravel races in eastern OR and WA a few years back with tubes and not a single flat. When I lived in the SW, I tried tubeless gravel tires but often couldnāt get the tire plugged fast enough to prevent the bead from unseating and got sealant everywhere, which is of course fun when you inevitably have to put a tube in to get homeā¦ |
#53
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#54
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One more time.
I've been wrenching for over 40 years now. I have zero problem with replacing tubes and fixing flats on the side of the road. Tubeless is a godsend for mountain bikers. They have serious problems with thorns and pinch flats. Tubeless allows them to run lower pressures and gain traction without worrying about pinch flats or thorns. It solves a problem and has low downsides. Harvesting dried sealant and adding more is the main downside. Tubeless for road riding is much less of a godsend. The higher pressures to start with often don't allow the punctures to seal and it spews sealant everywhere. It's much harder to set up road tubeless even without the foam. It's great if the team mechanic is the one setting up and maintaining tubeless. The upside is slightly lower rolling resistance, so racers like it. The downside for people who fix their own flats is a huge mess if it doesn't work out well setting up and more often when you get a puncture. Gravel is more of a mixture. It might be worth it. But if you're like most people, you don't get flats often enough to warrant tubeless. For someone like me who has fixed tens of thousands of flats for bikes of every description and doesn't need tire tools unless it's tubeless, I have absolutely zero interest in tubeless. I get enough of it at the shops I've worked at.
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Forgive me for posting dumb stuff. Chris Little Rock, AR Last edited by bikinchris; 07-25-2024 at 09:01 PM. |
#55
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to each his own, but the idea that one needs a team mechanic to set up road tubeless is hooey. 4-5 years ago, there were some nightmare combos but for the most part things are much better these days and if you have a modicum of mechanical ability, tubeless is easy, and in my book, totally worth it. I only flatted once or twice a year on tubes and it's down to zero on tubeless. Frame got sprayed a couple times; it wiped off, quickly if spotted soon enough. Most of our group are on tubeless and I can't recall anyone getting really hosed ever.
I appreciate tubeless on those damp days when it's almost guaranteed someone is going to pick up a tiny rock shard and flat (and possibly miss it when they put the tube in). Again, zero flats last 5 years, except the time I took out the old Giordana--before it too got tubeless wheel set--in conditions like that and flatted a tube. For the record, I have been wrenching for over 40 years, though only the last 10 professionally, at a shop with a younger owner/rider with decades of experience. We both ride tubeless on the road. Slightly wider rims with 28s around 70 psi combine fantastic ride quality, resistance to flatting, and speed (marginal gains, right?). They float over chunky pavement where the need to jack up tire pressure to prevent a pinch flat would have me bouncing all over the road. I pump them up to 70-75 then let them drop to about 50, and they ride great. |
#56
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I'm late to this thread and haven't read every single one of the posts, but at the risk of being accused of being a Luddite, I'll say this:
1) If you want to use tubeless tires have at it - that's totally up to you. 2) If you don't know how to properly change a bike tube out on the road (front or back wheel) you really shouldn't be riding (with a group or alone). I don't use tubeless tires so I know little about sealant, but if I did I'd still carry both a spare tube and tire boots, no matter where I was riding. |
#57
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Well, um, obviously!
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#58
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Not necessarily - this is what prompted my comment (the OP's op)
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#59
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I said "obviously" because this is a bike forum and I think your statement would get 100% agreement. I don't know what the OP was getting at when he said, "I'm thinking that there's a lot of people, for whatever reason (lack of skill, hand strength, tight tires, etc.), that try to avoid fixing flats at all costs." I don't know who these "lot of people" are, but I don't think they are on this forum.
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#60
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All that to say that more and more drivers these days don't know know to change tires, and even if they do, it might not help. Some folks on the car forums say "help is only a cell phone call away." Perhaps, but at 2 AM not a lot of people are awake to answer their cell phone. I would much prefer to have a car with a spare, and will be getting one (and a jack, and everything else I'll need). |
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