Tuesday Tool Thread - Page 33

Ozz · #**481** 02-01-2022, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gummee

In 30+ years of working on bikes, I may have needed the Phil BB tool once. Not quite time to buy one yet

M

Well, 15 years after my PW BB was installed....I needed the tools to remove it. As long as it was out, I had the bearings replaced probably didn't need to to replace them, but figured I might as well. Should be set for another 15-20 yrs....

bianchi10 · #**482** 02-01-2022, 07:39 PM

Just ordered my first Hydraulic bleed kit and will be attempting my first flush.

jbay · #**483** 02-01-2022, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gummee

In 30+ years of working on bikes, I may have needed the Phil BB tool once. Not quite time to buy one yet

No bike shop that I stopped at in Vermont, about 25 years ago, apparently had need of, or possessed one, either. I was hitch-hiking between bike shops, after a Phil bottom bracket, with all of 150 miles on it, blew to smithereens. The hope was that a shop could replace it with a Shimano, while I ran back outside to see how far I could toss the Phil. On the bright side, I was unable to litter the lovely countryside.

jbay · #**484** 02-01-2022, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ozz

Well, 15 years after my PW BB was installed....I needed the tools to remove it. As long as it was out, I had the bearings replaced probably didn't need to to replace them, but figured I might as well. Should be set for another 15-20 yrs....

One ride in the rain without mudguards was enough to kill them, in my experience. They obviously did better with mudguards, but even then, their lifetime was measured in months. I replaced them with el cheapo Shimanos and never looked back.

I still have the workshop tool and two of the regular removal tools if anyone is interested.

Gummee · #**485** 02-01-2022, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bianchi10

Just ordered my first Hydraulic bleed kit and will be attempting my first flush.

how old are your brakes?

If they're older than the ones with the quick bleed connector, you may as well toss em and buy new.

The only SRAM/Avid brakes I've ever successfully bled have been made in the last 3 ish years.

...and then it's basically doing a witch doctor dance. Hop on one leg spinning clockwise then change legs and hop on the other leg going the other way. May want to sacrifice a chicken (KFC seems to work too) to make sure

Make sure you clean the DOT fluid off the bike. The stuff eats paint

Good luck!

M

the quick bleed attachment is on top of the pic with the red ano 4-arm end

thirdgenbird · #**486** 02-01-2022, 08:59 PM

Etap owner. I doubt throwing them away is in the cards.

Spinner · #**487** 02-01-2022, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbay

their lifetime was measured in months.

I have four bikes equipped with Phil BBs, several in use for over 20 years. None have ever failed or been re-serviced.

Cheers.

NHAero · #**488** 02-01-2022, 11:38 PM

I have some multiple decades in service ones too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spinner

I have four bikes equipped with Phil BBs, several in use for over 20 years. None have ever failed or been re-serviced.

Cheers.

rice rocket · #**489** 02-02-2022, 04:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gummee

The only SRAM/Avid brakes I've ever successfully bled have been made in the last 3 ish years.

Their biggest downfall is not including a bleeder and just using a grub screw (for weight savings, I'm assuming).

The trick is pretty simple, elevate the caliper above the rest of the bike when you pull the caliper syringe. Then complete as they tell you to.

s4life · #**490** 02-02-2022, 05:11 AM

Finally ordered the tw-6.2 torque wrench!

https://www.parktool.com/product/rat...-wrench-tw-6-2

Should be much easier to deal with bbs and what not

Gummee · #**491** 02-02-2022, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thirdgenbird

Etap owner. I doubt throwing them away is in the cards.

you're probably OK then

...but still: good luck!

M

bianchi10 · #**492** 02-02-2022, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rice rocket

Their biggest downfall is not including a bleeder and just using a grub screw (for weight savings, I'm assuming).

The trick is pretty simple, elevate the caliper above the rest of the bike when you pull the caliper syringe. Then complete as they tell you to.

I'm going to try and bleed my brakes for the first time, so I'm only going in on what Ive seen between a couple Youtube videos that were good and clear with direction.

When you talk about this "simple trick", what is that for? What I really want to do is tighten the compression in the system. Right now, my rear brake lever pulls back to the back and I'd like to add some fluid to increase compression so the lever throw is much tighter and shorter. I saw a great video that shows how to do this with Shimano, but I know the Sram system does not have that bleeder bolt. Any direction that can help clarify how to accomplish this with Sram?

rice rocket · #**493** 02-02-2022, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bianchi10

I'm going to try and bleed my brakes for the first time, so I'm only going in on what Ive seen between a couple Youtube videos that were good and clear with direction.

When you talk about this "simple trick", what is that for? What I really want to do is tighten the compression in the system. Right now, my rear brake lever pulls back to the back and I'd like to add some fluid to increase compression so the lever throw is much tighter and shorter. I saw a great video that shows how to do this with Shimano, but I know the Sram system does not have that bleeder bolt. Any direction that can help clarify how to accomplish this with Sram?

The reason your lever throw is not "tight" is because there's air in your system.

There comes a point in the process when you have the remove the syringe from the caliper. The way that SRAM built the pre-2019 calipers, there's no way to seal the system while removing the syringe, which means fluid will dribble out as you attempt to plug the system w/ the grub screw, and introduces an air pocket.

The only way to get fluid not to dribble out is to elevate it above the lever, which will stop gravity from emptying your caliper. Put the screw back in with it elevated, and then the rest of the process can be followed as-is.

unterhausen · #**494** 02-02-2022, 06:02 PM

I just got some of these ERD measuring rods from Bicycle Service Centre.
https://www.bicycleservicecentre.co....rue&cst=custom

It's not a SON Nippelsitz-Messgerät, but they are pretty nice.

bart998 · #**495** 02-03-2022, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gummee

how old are your brakes?

If they're older than the ones with the quick bleed connector, you may as well toss em and buy new.

The only SRAM/Avid brakes I've ever successfully bled have been made in the last 3 ish years.

...and then it's basically doing a witch doctor dance. Hop on one leg spinning clockwise then change legs and hop on the other leg going the other way. May want to sacrifice a chicken (KFC seems to work too) to make sure

Make sure you clean the DOT fluid off the bike. The stuff eats paint

Good luck!

M

the quick bleed attachment is on top of the pic with the red ano 4-arm end

It took me a few tries and a couple of youtube videos... along with that kit to bleed the brakes on my 2015 Jekyll... but I finally got them right.