Quote:
Originally Posted by deluz
I never found the cone to be a problem, I think it is overstated to say it is a problem.
Once installed and tightened there is no reason to ever touch it again as bar height is adjusted with spacers and stem angle.
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Have you ever taken your fork off the bike and measured if the steerer wasn't bulged? If it were, could that cause the steerer to crack? Headsets wear out and eventually need replacing. Doesn't that bulge interfere with replacement of the lower bearing and crown race? Virtually all quill stems now are made with a wedge, not a cone.
I wouldn't use this product because of this concern. (I wouldn't use a quill stem with a cone either.) If I did, I'd be very careful to use the least amount of torque necessary. Maybe use carbon paste too.
YMMV
Edit: Salient points from another Paceline thread
https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=195818
"I've seen a bulged steerer, back in the day when I worked at the LBS. You know ... lightweight steel race bike (probably a thin tubed steerer), never heard of a torque wrench or even what a torque setting was, and someone got kinda gorilla strong with the allen wrench. It was from a quill stem with a cone, not a wedge. I concluded that that was one of the reasons stem manufacturers started producing wedges instead of cones."
and
"A steerer is the tube you least want to weaken by bulging/bending. Not only is the steerer one of the few non-redundant frame tubes, but unlike other frame tubes it cannot be easily inspected for cracks starting to form. I've seen steerer tubes fail while being ridden, and never ends well."
08-30-2023, 05:42 PM
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