Rene Herse tires.

[vespasianus]

Any time I install new tape or any tires from Challenge, I install them first with tubes and ride them a few times. Subsequently, I remove one side, remove the inner tube, pop in the tubeless valve of my choice, and re-inflate. Subsequently, I will put in sealant through the valve.

Honestly, if your LBS did not suggest that, you need to find another LBS.

[NHAero]

Originally Posted by KonaSS

I have never used RH tires, but it is commonly known that Panaracer's own Gravel Kings are particularly hard to set up tubeless. So I am not surprised that RH suffer the same issue. I gave up on Panaracer years ago because of this.

I've been using GK slicks on my Bingham and Habanero, 650B, in 38 and 42 widths, on BTLOS rims, and haven’t noticed any problems at all setting them up tubeless. Probably four sets of tires at this point. Fairly typical valves by Muc-off. I pull the core and pop the bead on with a little Senco compressor, and then fill the Stans into the tire with a KOM syringe.

[Hilltopperny]

Originally Posted by NHAero

I've been using GK slicks on my Bingham and Habanero, 650B, in 38 and 42 widths, on BTLOS rims, and haven’t noticed any problems at all setting them up tubeless. Probably four sets of tires at this point. Fairly typical valves by Muc-off. I pull the core and pop the bead on with a little Senco compressor, and then fill the Stans into the tire with a KOM syringe.

I'm with you! I have been using Gravel Kings for years and have set them up with a floor pump most of the time. I have come across a stubborn set once or twice, but with the proper amount of tape and valves they set up with a compressor pretty easily.

Certain wheel and tire combos don't always work out, but overall my GKs haven't been problematic in my experience with them. I have had difficulty with the Rene Herse tires in the past, but they were typically the extralight casings and they would seat, but bleed sealant as well as being fragile under my weight.

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[madsciencenow]

Originally Posted by John H.

I agree- I have not had good luck with Rene Here tires. They seem to need orange seal and a lot of patience.

This has been my experience and a family member had a similar story.


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[.RJ]

Originally Posted by EB

Do yourself a favor and get some tires from one of the brands that labels their tires “tubeless ready.” There are so many good ones now from Schwalbe, Continental, Vittoria, Specialized, Maxxis, etc… You won’t regret it and you will save yourself some money, too.

G-one, conti terra, specialized pathfinder all great choices here in 40/45mm.

I have used RH tires and agree they work great with tubes. I've not seen any product as polarizing on the internet as RH tires though.

[ColonelJLloyd]

Originally Posted by djg21

I don’t like using a compressor on carbon wheels.

Originally Posted by djg21

Compressors and carbon rims generally are a bad idea and I’m reluctant to force the issue and destroy a wheel.

You have a bad experience or something?

[djg21]

Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd

You have a bad experience or something?

https://forums.thepaceline.net/showt...pressor+carbon

[slambers3]

Originally Posted by djg21

https://forums.thepaceline.net/showt...pressor+carbon

It is common/standard practice to use an air compressor for setting tubeless. I don’t know where this “getting air between the fibers” statement comes from but in my experience setting up hundreds of tires in a shop setting I can’t recall seeing a single rim failure firsthand attributed to that. I’m sure the internet will yield a few examples but most medium to large shops do TL installs with a compressor daily and without issue. It’s perhaps a *safe* recommendation for consumers to start with a floor pump but for a lot of tire/rim combinations it’s not going to be an adequate volume of airflow. Maybe you blow up a deep section rim if if it doesn’t have drainage holes, you do a crappy tape job/valve install and end up pressurizing the cavity, but that’s pretty rare and definitely in the realm of user error.
If you can get a tire to seat without a compressor, great- some will others will not. Rene Herse have always been a PITA for TL, especially if they’ve been previously mounted and stretched out a bit.

[djg21]

Originally Posted by slambers3

It is common/standard practice to use an air compressor for setting tubeless. I don’t know where this “getting air between the fibers” statement comes from but in my experience setting up hundreds of tires in a shop setting I can’t recall seeing a single rim failure firsthand attributed to that. I’m sure the internet will yield a few examples but most medium to large shops do TL installs with a compressor daily and without issue. It’s perhaps a *safe* recommendation for consumers to start with a floor pump but for a lot of tire/rim combinations it’s not going to be an adequate volume of airflow. Maybe you blow up a deep section rim if if it doesn’t have drainage holes, you do a crappy tape job/valve install and end up pressurizing the cavity, but that’s pretty rare and definitely in the realm of user error.
If you can get a tire to seat without a compressor, great- some will others will not. Rene Herse have always been a PITA for TL, especially if they’ve been previously mounted and stretched out a bit.

https://bikerumor.com/enve-pressure-...-from-popping/

[slambers3]

Originally Posted by djg21

https://bikerumor.com/enve-pressure-...-from-popping/

I referenced that potential issue in my response- a lot of rims have drain/weep holes so cavity pressurization is impossible, and of course you can use pressure relief nuts or whatever. But most often when this happens it’s an end user doing a crappy tape job (too narrow tape, wrinkly, one wrap etc) and/or not tightening the valve enough to make a seal.
Taking that as a reason to make a sweeping categorical judgement to the effect that using a compressor on carbon rims is dangerous… seems like a either a misunderstanding of the issue or blowing it out of proportion (pun intended)

[MikeD]

If you've got a rim without a vented fairing used tubeless, you should be using one of those vented jam nuts anyway.

I wrote years ago about my poor tubeless experience with Compass (now RH) Snoqualmie Pass tires and recommended then they should be run with tubes. I had problems like the OP, sealant bleed through the casing, tread bubble, stretched beads... Similar but better experience with Gravelkings. First time use wasn't bad to get the beads to seat with a compressor, but subsequently was very difficult to seat due to the beads stretching. What helped was using the Effetto Mariposa Caffelatex tubeless rimstrips, which was the equivalent to adding multiple layers of rim tape.

[Andy340]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

…… I convinced myself that RH tires ride really well and are superb with tubes, but more hassle than they are worth tubeless.

Agree - RH 700x32 with latex tubes ride really nicely; RH 700x35 and 26inchx50mm (both UL casing) would constantly weep sealant / not hold air resulting in mid ride stop to pump so eventually gave up and moved to other brands for tubeless (> 32 mm)

[ColonelJLloyd]

Originally Posted by djg21

https://forums.thepaceline.net/showt...pressor+carbon

Quoting yourself as a source.

[benb]

If you’re taking the valve core out and not threading the compressor into the valve stem there’s almost no way you could possibly over pressure the rim cause you won’t be able to hold the compressor into the valve stem hard enough. (Why am I not surprised Enve is the one warning about fragility)

Also yah any time a tire is at all hard to mount absolutely put a tube in first and then just get the tube out without breaking both beads.

I would have zero chance of mounting my 4.5” tires on my fat bike without using a tube. The tire bead has to move an inch before sealing. Totally impossible without one side already sealed up. It almost exhausts the compressor even doing everything right.

[m_sasso]

My conclusion: There is more the one Rene Herse sucker born everyday!