Best $1K Race Bike Build

[comish83]

Originally Posted by carpediemracing

I love questions like this. I did a post on team bikes after thinking about this when I joined a new team and they offered bike discounts:
http://sprinterdellacasa.blogspot.co...team-bike.html

For budget keep in mind pedals, shoes, helmet, some clothing, and fit items (bar/stem/saddle). If you don't have a smartphone you probably want a basic computer to track distance etc. Cadence is actually sort of significant at the beginning.

With that in mind remember that the bike has to fit. If it doesn't fit it won't do you much good. This includes bar height/drop, which is critical. You don't want to be too upright in a race, it's probably one of the biggest performance limiters you have control over (genetics you can't control, and fitness at a given moment you can't control either). The Synapse has a higher bar height for a given size. This may be a fit limiter.

The Synapse has longer chainstays. This makes the bike a bit more stable, a little less nimble. This is a minor point, shouldn't be a big thing, but a shorter chainstay bike will feel more responsive when out of the saddle. In the saddle, not really. You can change a lot of things on a bike but you can't change the frame geometry so make sure it's going to be okay for you.

Given the choice between a similarly priced/set-up, say, CAAD8-10, I'd choose the CAAD8, mainly for fit and (minor) handling improvements. Not a deal breaker but for long term, if the fit works, I'd consider a CAAD over a Synapse.

Please budget for fit items. These include saddle, bars, and stem. Again, fit is absolutely critical. If a normal frame works for you then you can transfer the bar/stem from one bike to another. Saddles usually transfer as well.

Having said that remember that your fit will evolve as you become more race fit. It's not like you'll be able to do yoga like stuff on the bike suddenly, it's just that you'll feel more comfortable leaned over a bit more, recruiting more cycling specific muscles currently not developed, etc.

Some of my thoughts on fit (this relates to a teammate I fit who was obviously a bit too upright in his position and cramped fore-aft, even though he was "professionally fit"):
http://sprinterdellacasa.blogspot.co...ive-thing.html

There is a link at the beginning of that post going to something a bit more in detail about fit changes in a new racer/cyclist.

You'll want clipless pedals. The Synapse has some but not ones that you'll keep if you keep racing. A Look type system (Keo, similar) would work well for a long time. You can get them cheap. If you are limited in budget and you get a decent bike that stretches your budget I'll send you a pair of (used) Keo pedals free.

Gearing - really you'll need just a close-ish ratio cassette, maybe an 11-25. That will set you up for most events. The derailleurs should be fine, just adjust the rear to follow the cog profile closer (b-screw or similar adjustment).

Stay with Shimano or SRAM. I say this as a Campy user. Campy replacement cassettes are harder to find and typically more expensive. Historically this has always been the case. With 105 you simply can't go wrong, it's perfectly okay for a Cat 3 lifer. A friend/teammate worked through the ranks from Cat 5->3 on an aluminum 105 bike (Felt). He rewarded himself with a carbon Ultegra bike (Trek). He said it was the stupidest thing he did. He got carbon tubular race wheels ($750 with tires) and he said that was the best thing. He sold his carbon/ultegra bike because he didn't see a true performance value in the rig, and he could sell it for more money. With 105 you'll replace wear items as necessary, then you might go Ultegra (for cassettes, chains). For derailleurs not necessary.

Wheels - yes, they help, but get fit first. Then worry about the other stuff. Decent starter wheels will serve as great training wheels later.

I don't know if this bike was stolen but this would fit pretty much everything except no pedals. No extra money for wheels but those wheels are fine - in fact I have basically the same wheels for me. Tires are great for both training and racing. It's a bit high up front so if that fit works for you then great. Chainstays are short (note small clearance between rear tire and seat tube). Should be pretty stiff/beefy for racing. Carbon fork so front end will be as comfortable as anything out there.
http://baltimore.craigslist.org/bik/5888687549.html

Hope this helps.

Thank you for such a detailed response. The articles are definitely things I have played around with when I first started riding but now that I have been doing between 125-175 miles per week for about 4 months (intentions are to go up to 250-300 next year to race) I think the positioning has leveled out. Definitely need to compare frame geometries with my current bike (2005 Trek 1200 below). I could probably use a stem that is slightly longer and handlebars that are slightly more narrow(5'7" 125ish). Cant hit the craigslist links at work so I will have to wait...

http://bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeS...rek&model=1200

[comish83]

Originally Posted by Hilltopperny

That bike is most definitely aluminum. It is circa 2008 or 2009. I bought a like new one with tiagra for my 12 year old daughter. Put up a psa for a $500 frame in the classifieds and I'll sell you a campy group and wheels for the other $500!

Sounds like I should pounce on a $200 Scott CR1 Team Frame from Craigslist then to give myself more $ for upgrades. When I spec'ed the bike out though my total came to almost 1500 though (allocating $400 for wheels). That was with Dura Ace 7800 Crank, Cassette and Rear Derailleur, Ultegra shifters and front derailleur, carbon handlebars, and cheap brakes. Maybe I am not finding that good of deals on components though.....

http://bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeS...model=CR1+Team

[mtechnica]

Sometimes you can find a $1000 tarmac with 10 speed components. That or a caad10 would be good. There are lots of random deals you can stumble across just make sure to get something that fits and has actual racing geometry and at least 105 10 speed. Good wheels will destroy your budget btw.

[Hilltopperny]

Originally Posted by mtechnica

Sometimes you can find a $1000 tarmac with 10 speed components. That or a caad10 would be good. There are lots of random deals you can stumble across just make sure to get something that fits and has actual racing geometry and at least 105 10 speed. Good wheels will destroy your budget btw.

https://utica.craigslist.org/bik/5879836015.html

[Zoodles]

For what it's worth I race a CAAD10 with 105. Great bike and it should be easy to find a used one for 1k or less. If you go with 10 spd you can find used deep carbon wheels for less than $500 and have a fantastic race bike, and spare wheels for training.

I bought that bike new on a screaming deal but usually build up my bikes. The formula is basically the frame of your preference, used groupset from a previous generation (again 10 spd) and the seat, cockpit and contact points come from take-offs from a higher end bike sold cheap by a latest and greatest gear junkie (good source for wheels too).

It requires knowing what you like and can take a while but if you start now you'll be set by spring.

If you are just starting out skip the carbon race wheels and go with the nicest aluminum wheels you can get for a few hundred, saves some hassle and imo you don't give up any speed in lower categories.

[nate2351]

You can easily race all the way up into the 1/2s with an alloy frame and wheels. Some would even argue you could excel there too.

It's all about having the time to train, not the bike.

[Pastashop]

Budgeting should include two sets of wheels. Normally, people tend to have their "race" wheelset and their "training" wheelset, but I'd recommend having two identical wheelsets, to minimize any surprises in a stressful (race) situation. If you put out a "WTB" add here for a very good condition, 28 or 32 spoked, Shimano 6800 hubs with Open Pro rims, you'll get a pretty good deal – probably for ~ $500 for both sets. Spend some money on Compass or Specialized tires with low rolling resistance, and you're good to go.

Story time: my good friend, back in grad school, bought himself the "Cyclist's Training Bible", a $150 Minoura mag trainer, and spent an hour or two on it each day... Once the season started, he rose up from Cat 4 to winning Cat 3 races, riding an old steel Merckx with downtube shifters. The following year he switched to a 6500-equipped Fuji Team purchased on bikesdirect.com, and proceeded to mix it up with Cat 1/2s.

FWIW, the Fuji Team bikes that we rode were actually quite comfortable, despite being Al, very light, and handled very nicely. A 54 cm with the aforementioned wheelset would come in under 17 lbs stock.

There were also a lot of dudes and dudettes on Giant TCRs, kicking major butt. Check them out, as Giant makes many of the frames you see with other (more expensive) labels on the downtube. This one looks pretty good, for example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Giant-TCR-Ad...wAAOSwQupXXCY9

[Benneke]

Originally Posted by Pastashop

Budgeting should include two sets of wheels. Normally, people tend to have their "race" wheelset and their "training" wheelset, but I'd recommend having two identical wheelsets, to minimize any surprises in a stressful (race) situation. If you put out a "WTB" add here for a very good condition, 28 or 32 spoked, Shimano 6800 hubs with Open Pro rims, you'll get a pretty good deal – probably for ~ $500 for both sets. Spend some money on Compass or Specialized tires with low rolling resistance, and you're good to go.

Story time: my good friend, back in grad school, bought himself the "Cyclist's Training Bible", a $150 Minoura mag trainer, and spent an hour or two on it each day... Once the season started, he rose up from Cat 4 to winning Cat 3 races, riding an old steel Merckx with downtube shifters. The following year he switched to a 6500-equipped Fuji Team purchased on bikesdirect.com, and proceeded to mix it up with Cat 1/2s.

FWIW, the Fuji Team bikes that we rode were actually quite comfortable, despite being Al, very light, and handled very nicely. A 54 cm with the aforementioned wheelset would come in under 17 lbs stock.

There were also a lot of dudes and dudettes on Giant TCRs, kicking major butt. Check them out, as Giant makes many of the frames you see with other (more expensive) labels on the downtube. This one looks pretty good, for example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Giant-TCR-Ad...wAAOSwQupXXCY9

Good advice, but 28-32 spokes may be excessive given the rider is only 125 lbs, maybe look for lighter wheels

[TunaAndBikes]

Originally Posted by Benneke

Good advice, but 28-32 spokes may be excessive given the rider is only 125 lbs, maybe look for lighter wheels

This might be enough to feed another thread, but I concur.
I'm at 155 lbs with 20/24 spokes on lightweight aluminium rims and the wheels are (almost) dead straight (albeit i'm running 32s at low-ish pressures).
i've had a habit of taking the wheels out on trails and such. front wheel is lightly wonky because of hitting a few too many roots, but the rear is perfect.
Of course, YMMV.

[Mzilliox]

at 5'7" 125lbs you are looking for a 54cm race bike? I would race on a 54cm at 5'9.5 and 150. i would think you would want a touch smaller?

maybe not?

either way, I think a 1k race bike is very doable, as many have said, the Allez or Caad lines have won plenty of riders plenty of races. then down the line buy a nice second set of wheels for it.

[comish83]

Originally Posted by Mzilliox

at 5'7" 125lbs you are looking for a 54cm race bike? I would race on a 54cm at 5'9.5 and 150. i would think you would want a touch smaller?

maybe not?

either way, I think a 1k race bike is very doable, as many have said, the Allez or Caad lines have won plenty of riders plenty of races. then down the line buy a nice second set of wheels for it.

I was wondering the same thing and questioning the quality of fitting the bike shop gave me when I was 15(didn't grow 1 CM since ). I definitely ride with a lower seat post position (4 inches) compared to what is shown on the fitting forum with the Pros like Sagan. My inseam is about 31 inches. Just curious what your inseam is at 5'9.5?

[RobJ]

I agree with the comments on the 'Dales. And as a previous owner of a SuperSix Evo I would also recommend another sleeper pick - Raleigh Militis. You can find the frames for a really good price; all carbon, oversized downtube, short stays etc. I had one of these too and was extremely comfortable and solid ride. In fact been keeping my eyes out for another.

[comish83]

2012-2014 CAADs with 105s seem to be going for $675-800 on ebay the past couple of days. Any thoughts on what a "steal" price is? Sub 700?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cannondale-C...torefresh=true

[Benneke]

Originally Posted by comish83

2012-2014 CAADs with 105s seem to be going for $675-800 on ebay the past couple of days. Any thoughts on what a "steal" price is? Sub 700?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cannondale-C...torefresh=true

I'd say any complete CAAD10 with 105 in good for under 800 shipped is a good deal. I would say that a 52 is probably too big for you and you should try a 50 or 48. Fit is the most important thing when buying a bike, and chances are you need a 50 or smaller. Bike shops are notorious for putting smaller people on bikes that are too big for them because they want to sell what they have in stock. For reference, Mark Cavendish is 5'9" and rides a size 49. Thats a little unusual, but not extraordinary for a race bike.

[RobJ]

From the link in your original post you might be local? Well this one just literally popped up on the local FB group:

54cm BMC Teammachine ALR01 Frameset
$550 - Arlington, VA (22201)

2016 BMC Teammachine ALR01 Frameset - 54cm This is a special edition alloy frameset. Includes carbon fork, same one that comes on the SLR01 carbon frame, carbon seatpost, and Ultegra threaded BB. Does not include stem shown in photos, but that can be sold too.

Built this up in May or June and ridden probably 1000 miles. It has a threaded BB and externally routed cables, which is wildly unique in 2016. It has no damage aside from some cosmetic wear from a trunk rack strap rubbing off some of the anodization, shown in photos.