|
|
|
|
#16
10-30-2024, 06:20 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
You actually don't need a B junction. You can solder into a star cfg and heat shrink junction.
__________________
This foot tastes terrible! 
|
|
#18
10-30-2024, 07:12 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
The 12 speed idea does have it's appeal, but it also exposes the weakness in my setup.
See, I'm one of those people who got a gravel bike with two wheelsets as their "one bike to rule them all". I also have a commuter/city bike, but we'll just ignore that. Anyway, after riding my very nice carbon gravel bike on all sorts of stuff, I began to miss having a more pure road bike, as well as a classic-ish steel bike. My gravel bike was working so well, I also had no bike wrenching projects. The obvious solution was a steel frame road bike that I could use as a platform for my crazy bike ideas and tinkering platform. i built the first version of this bike up for under $1,000; all mechanical, all external. Annoyingly, as I looked for inexpensive rim brake parts, I also found inexpensive, modern, current gear. Then I start getting a tickle of, "maybe I just need a modern road frame." The original intent of having a classic style road bike is being smothered by the possibilities and the good deals on modern components. So, for now, I want to keep the steel, mid-reach-brake frame my north star. I want to be able to put the very nice parts to good use, even if the industry and average consumer thinks that they are outdated. Otherwise I might just sell a bunck of stuff and but a Roubaix from Blubba.
|
|
#20
10-30-2024, 07:39 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Etap
May the Gods strike you down if your solution is to zip tie it externally
|
|
#21
10-30-2024, 07:58 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
If I may, I would like to present an alternative viewpoint.
I am a very late adopter of electronic shifting. With the help of several generous forum pals here, I was initiated into the world of Di2 less than 2 years ago. I first dipped into 10 speed because most of my bikes at that time were 10 speed mechanical. Like you, I fell in love with Di2 almost immediately for all the same reasons. Within a year or so I converted 3 or 4 other bikes to Di2 and also upgraded to 11 speed. Now here's the rub. None of my bikes are drilled or prepped for Di2 internal routing. But that didn't faze or stop me from proceeding forward. And here's why. My personal philosophy in life is to live in the here and now, in the present, to enjoy whatever life has to offer instead of waiting for the perfect moment or the future. I have posted pictures of my bikes set up with di2 here before and gotten quite a few chuckles  . They are a complete mess with tape and zip ties everywhere. I don't care. They have all worked perfectly as intended, from day 1, not so much as a missed shift or accidental discharge. I have traveled with them to France, Australia, Singapore and several other places within the US, on all kinds of road conditions, gravel, road, dusty, wet, mud... you know it, not a peep. So what's my point? My bikes may get a C- for aesthetics but functionally they are flawless, for the last two years. I am glad I didn't wait for the perfect bike to show up or waste a single minute in coming up with some clever/stupid/ goofy solutions.  Start living. Now.
__________________
 🏻* 
|
|
#23
10-30-2024, 11:01 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Quote:
|
|
#24
10-31-2024, 12:20 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
It's actually not that hard to get 12sp Di2 retrofitted on a metal frame.
Shimano sells rubber grommets for EW-SD300. They are about $1 each. The biggest bargain in cycling today. They are available in two sizes, the one you want is size small which is to fit a 6mm round hole. You just drill a 6mm hole into your frame wherever you want a wire to enter (or exit), insert one of these grommets and Bobs-yer-fathers-brother. Super clean. No junction box means you just use the 4 port adapter I mentioned earlier (EW-JC304) somewhere between the wired shifters and the battery. My choice would be to have it somewhere up front (like where an inline barrel adjuster used to go on an externally routed bike. This way if you need to drop the fork you just unplug at that one location and your bar/shifters are decoupled. EDIT: And if you want to run 1x on your rim brake (or mechanical disc) bike, for some reason, you don't even need EW-JC04. Just one port on the battery to the Rear Der, and the two remaining ports you just plug directly into each of the front shifters. Last edited by robertbb; 10-31-2024 at 12:23 AM.
|
|
#25
10-31-2024, 12:41 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
drill holes through the frame. it won't affect the frame at all and i've seen people do it on a colnago master for di2 and it turned out fine and is still fine with not rust or issues 5 years later.
|
|
#26
10-31-2024, 07:15 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I'd almost rather see zip ties than this solution
Quote:
|
|
#29
10-31-2024, 10:33 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I have given this lots of thought as I was thinking of going DI2 on my moots at one point. I hope I can explain my idea clearly.
Seems like a 3d printed piece that threads or presses into cable guides that functions as a Chinese finger trap or a collet on the wire would be a good solution. Pull the cables through the guides and 3d printed locks/collets similar to normal wires and then pull tight at various locations to make them look like regular cables. Get a hollow bolt for the cable guide under the BB and hide the battery in the seat tube. May have to solder the connections back together, but that is not that difficult to do. Junction box, use the problem solver stem adaptor or jb weld a mount onto the underside of the stem. I am likely missing something, as I chose not to go down this path.
|
 |
|
|
Linear Mode
