#16
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I'm confused as to what options you are considering here, are you changing the chainring sizes or not.
With the 50/34 IMO either cassette would be fine. On a 50-34 I find an excessively tight spaced cassette is actually really really annoying because it causes me to somehow end up riding in a gear range where I have to make vastly more shifts on the front derailleur. I have a bike with a 50/34 + 12-34 IIRC, the wider spacing gets rid of that dumb zone where tons of front derailleur shifts happen for me. Based on the 12-34 working, I would think either 10-33 or 10-36 would also not be annoying. With the SRAM 48/35 setup for me at least personally I would definitely go with the tighter spaced 10-33. I would also not sweat 65g if you're not a featherweight climbing specialist. Bike weight difference is going to be completely dwarfed by the benefits of getting the gear ratios right. |
#17
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Do you need the 35/48 rings?
I'm running 33/46 + 10-33 on my road bike and the 1:1 low is nice when I hit hillier terrain during a long ride. I don't race, rides are a mix of solo and group, terrain is a mix of short punchy rollers and moderate hills if I head west tornados the Blue Ridge. Rarely real extended climbing (that's usually on my gravel or mountain bikes). In the 12t cog the difference between the 46 and 48 ring is ~1mph (27 vs 28 @ 90rpm). |
#18
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This thread shows well that gearing selection is very personal, and depends on a lot of factors.
Personally I will not build a bike anymore that does not include 1:1 or lower gearing, but that's just me, I don't race and I like to have options when the hills point up.
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http://less-than-epic.blogspot.com/ |
#19
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Quote:
I vote for the easier gear ratios. |
#20
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I am big fan of the 46/33 - 10/36 combo for my riding, but it is hilly around here (and mountains to the north) and I weigh 225 lbs YMMV.
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#21
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Quote:
Thank you for the feedback. I know it's not difficult for some people to sort out, but as I mentioned, it is something I have little knowledge on. Changing out a punctured tire is not a difficult task either, for someone who has experience doing it. Ask someone who has never changed a tire before to do it, and they might struggle a little. I have no idea what 9% lower gearing means/feel like in real world terms, which is why I came here to try and get a better idea, from others who know more than I. |
#22
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Quote:
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#23
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Not an AXS rider, so grains of salt, etc...
I'd stick with the 10-33 for the smaller jumps, but swap the chainrings from 48-35 to 46-33. 46x10 is a smidge (1.2%) higher top gear than the 50x11 you run now, and the 33x33 is 13.3% lower than the 34x30 you run now.
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Bingham/B.Jackson/Unicoi/Habanero/Raleigh20/429C/BigDummy/S6 |
#24
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Assuming this is a dedicated Road bike.
Pretty simple, go ride your current bike on the usual terrain. Find the hardest climb and see what gear you use and check your power/HR and overall comfortability. If you are uncomfy or think you'll tackle some tougher terrain get some more range. If comfy, you can look to move to a comparable 12sp range. Also, take in to account the top end of that cassette to make sure you aren't spinning out with a 46T up front. Last edited by kppolich; Yesterday at 10:20 AM. |
#25
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This is, of course, the Paceline Forum. I have another bike geared 32/36. So, there’s that
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#26
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I have Red AXS with 35/48 and a 10-33. I originally had 33/46 and was wishing for bigger rings in the front when a powermeter 35/48 popped up on the classifieds. My RD keeps me at 33 or smaller, but I very rarely get on the 33. I like the tighter ratio in the higher gears, and this is a dedicated road bike with 30s. If I had an AXS gravel bike, it would have Force with 10-36 and 33/46.
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#27
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The tricky thing with this is just how varied terrain is and how strong everyone is.
I have a friend in NJ and my cousin used to live in FL. They could literally ride 100 miles and have less climbing than I have in 10 miles. But someone in CA who rides up into the mountains will have much more than me, and it's not always about total elevation gain anyway. Better engineered roads tend to be a little less steep than poorly designed old roads like we have in the NE. Bottom line is having to walk up the hill is always the slowest way... * * = except for some crazy MTB situations |
#28
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I have a 10-33 you can try out for a bit if you want. You can use the AXS site to see how much you’re using each gear for every ride.
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#29
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Man, that is so kind of you. I appreciate that offer! I'm still so far away from needing this right now. Just trying to get some thoughts in order. I've just put my Aethos up for sale and need to get rid of that before taking forward steps to get an SL8. When that time comes, I'll have a better idea of what I'm going with.
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#30
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Everyone has a different preference or taste for this I guess.
I`m running one bike with 46/33 and 10/33 and it has taken me a while to get used to it. I really really hate the jump from 28 to 33 when I`m using the little ring. On the other hand, the smallish big ring is great for those not too long climbs that you can do entirely on the "big" ring. This would be even better with a 10-36 cassette. I`m a climber, and I think I wouldn`t miss much the 14, and would prefer two 4 teeth jumps that one big 5 teeth one. |
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