What spokes & lubricant/thread prep for wheelbuild?

[marciero]

I've used anti-seize for all but the first one or two wheels I've built. No particular reason other than I had a big jar of it and it is a somewhat grippy lube that stays in place. Its clear that all kinds of prep can work, including no prep-dry. A properly built wheel should not need thread lock type preps, nor should it ever require truing. I think that modern rims are very easy and very forgiving. This is all based on my very limited experience- I've built only about 10, all the same boring 32x 3, as well as what I've read.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by proletariandan

Guessing there are quite a few opinions out there but want to see what y'all recommend.

Leaning toward Sapim Alloy Double-Square nipples and D-Light spokes for a gravel wheel (re)build.

Have been using Spoke Prep for a long time but also see that Wheel Fanatyk has a new product on offer.

https://wheelfanatyk.com/collections...g/products/fix

Thanks!
Dan

My opinions..D-Light are good enough spokes but that .15mm thinner center section really doesn't do anything..56g lighter for 64 spokes. BUT, all else being equal, I think a 'Race' spoke would make a more durable wheel. Plus D-Lght more expensive.

Same for alloy nipples..First, I'd use SecureLock..mechanical method of 'locking' vs chemical like DT. BUT alloy doesn't really add anything to the performance of the wheel but are less reliable than chrome plated brass. Plus more expensive.

I use boiled linseed oil on spoke threads and Mobil One between nipple and rim. I have been doing that for the 39 years I have been building wheels.

Good spoke key, good, stiff truing stand, good dishing tool and spoke tension-meter...AND proper rim, spoke number choice for the intended use.

Even, high enough tension, front and drive side rear or disc side front.

IMHO...

[bikinchris]

I've been building wheels for 47 years now. My current procedure is to use a heavy oil on the spoke threads like Tenacious Oil or Century Lube and bathe the nipples in a lighter oil like Tri Flow until they go into the nipple shuffler. I have a small ceramic bowl found at Goodwill and a screen like the one they sell for sink drains fits exactly in it. So I can take the screen out and drop them into the nipple shuffler.
Once the wheel is true, round, centered and balanced and tight, I use DT Swiss Spoke Freeze, which is a penetrating thread locker. One drop on each nipple and it soaks into the threads.
Of course, a really well-built wheel won't go out of true, but the Spoke Freeze is extra insurance.

[Erikg]

+1 on the Sapim Secure Lock nipples.

I've only built around 10 wheels over the years and started with nipple bath with Wheel Fanatyk clear oil and Fix for the spoke threads. The nipple bath oil is pretty gooey and created too much residual oil that seeped out to the rim for months after the build. perhaps I did not keep them in the nipple shuffler long enough. On subsequent builds I used an oiler pen for the nipples and Fix for the spokes.

The last two builds I used Sapim Secure Lock nipples (lightly oiled with the oil pen) without using the Fix spoke prep. I've done two wheels with the Secure Lock and Cx-Rays and quite like the locking nipples. Fix works well too, but you need a little oil on the nipples to prevent spoke spin during the build.

[Blown Reek]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

I have no idea what other uses boiled linseed oil has, so it doesn't get used anywhere else.

If you have the opportunity to wipe down some walnut cabinets or furniture with boiled linseed oil, you'll understand one of its best uses.

[MikeD]

Has anyone found that medium Loctite is too strong and makes it hard to do subsequent truing?

[tellyho]

I use Rock N Roll Nipple Cream, partially because it's funny. Works fine. I build everything with brass nipples and DB spokes because I ride in bad weather and will only relace a set of wheels once....

[classtimesailer]

DT brass nipples and 3in1.

[El Chaba]

Boiled linseed oil on the threads. For the eyelets, just a touch of Mobil 1 which is what I use for general use. Years ago I refilled an empty Phil Wood Tenacious Oil drip bottle with Mobil 1 and generally concluded that whatever mechanism needs a drop or two of light oil is better off if it gets Mobil 1. I agree with the others who stated that a properly tensioned wheel *shouldn’t* come loose, but I also have nothing against a bit of insurance.

[Peter P.]

Originally Posted by MikeD

Has anyone found that medium Loctite is too strong and makes it hard to do subsequent truing?

I wouldn't even THINK of using Loctite 242 (blue, Medium Strength) on threads and I HAVE a bottle! Breaking the bond while truing can result in major spoke twisting before breaking the bond, resulting in a lot of frustration.

While I never used it as above, as a teenager back in the 70s I had a bike shop build a pair of wheels for me. They used RED Loctite, which requires heat to break the bond. When I brought them in for their free, first tune up, they admitted it was a dumb mistake and re-laced the wheel without it.

[bikinchris]

Originally Posted by Peter P.

I wouldn't even THINK of using Loctite 242 (blue, Medium Strength) on threads and I HAVE a bottle! Breaking the bond while truing can result in major spoke twisting before breaking the bond, resulting in a lot of frustration.

While I never used it as above, as a teenager back in the 70s I had a bike shop build a pair of wheels for me. They used RED Loctite, which requires heat to break the bond. When I brought them in for their free, first tune up, they admitted it was a dumb mistake and re-laced the wheel without it.

If you use DT Swiss Spoke Freeze and not have enough oil on the threads, you will never turn those threads again. It is a wicking red thread locker.

[HenryA]

Originally Posted by Overshot

Tef-Gel works great for all kinds of anti corrosion use on bikes. Have been using it for a while

Tef-Gel is some good stuff. Never thought of using it for wheels. Should be great for never seizing or corroding.