Seeking Campagnolo Advice for Steel Custom

[thwart]

… positioned so you can adjust for crankset changes; standard, compact or (heaven forbid) a triple.

Yeah… remember: you can't sit at the cool kids table if you run a triple.

[FlashUNC]

As others have mentioned, no real issues you'll be running into outside some FD adjustability around the FD tab.

From my experience when I was having a steel custom built, the builder specifically asked me a couple of the questions you had -- gearing and what componentry I was going to use -- and had a couple specific reasons for doing so. First, he wanted to know whether I was using a standard or compact crank so he could place the braze-on tab where the FD would be mounted smack in the middle of the thing for aesthetics. He asked if I had any thoughts I may switch some day, and if I did, he could mount a longer tab to accept a compact. Otherwise, I'd be filing it down, same as your builder has said.
Also, he wanted to know whether I was using modern components because the rear spacing standard switched from 126mm to 130mm in the late 80's/early 90's, as oldpotatoe pointed out.

You're building something fairly similar to what I have now -- full 11 speed Athena save for Chorus shifters to get that ultrashift "dump" capability. Honestly, I can tell no functional difference between my Athena stuff, and another bike with 11 speed Chorus. Just take care of it and maintain it, and the stuff will last you for a long, long time.

Post some photos when it's built up.

[Jerrous]

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[echelon_john]

1. Because there are different options available to builders

2. Nope, not a bit.

3. He probably will if you just tell him you want to be able to run both a regular and a compact. It's not that big a deal; he just needs to exercise care and precision with where he puts the mount, so that you can use all of its range to accommodate the two types of cranks.

Originally Posted by Jerrous

Why would there be different tab sizes? Does having a longer tab mess up the fit of a standard setup? Why wouldn't the builder automatically choose the most accommodating tab?

[Jerrous]

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[Scooper]

This drawing provides guidance on where the FD braze-on should be positioned vertically on the seat tube for various chainring sizes. It may help you work with the framebulder in deciding where to position it.

[zetroc]

My advice: Forget the braze-on and go with clamp-on front derailleurs. Don't overthink it - you'll only add stress and complication to your life.

[thirdgenbird]

The center spec covers you from 48-54t that seems like a pretty sensible option.

[jmoore]

If you are not positive on your preferred gearing, the going with something in the middle is always a good choice. 12-25 or so will give you a good range. If you find you need more climbing help, then you can bump up to a 12-27 with little problem. Same thing the other way, 11-23 is easy to drop to.

Cassette changes are simple and inexpensive, assuming you have a properly built frame, which this one is likely to be.

[Ralph]

I ride a custom steel frame (Jonathan Greene Cycles). Also use a clamp on FD with plastic shim underneath. Wanted the ability to run any size chainring. Also didn't want to mess up nice paint on seat tube where the clamp goes around. The seat tube is 28.6 and I run the size larger FD with a plastic shim underneath the clamp. I change out chainrings a lot, larger and smaller, and go from double to triple and back probably once a year. This way....my paint is still same as new under the shim under the clamp. This was my plan. There are also some paint saving adapters that bolt on to a braze on FD, but I prefered to clamp around a plastic shim. My LBS had a drawer full of shims in various sizes for various FD's. So they are common.

[Jerrous]

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[zetroc]

Originally Posted by Jerrous

How serious is the filing business if I had to have it? Would it be a cruel, ugly thing to do to a beautiful frame?.

Don't sweat it - cruelty is for living beings. steel can't feel.

[cnighbor1]

If built in Italy I would go sans any chrome
Why not ask him to verify 130mm in rear
also what type of frame are you looking for racing, day touring, touring he needs those answers
Charles
PS My new 57cm Masi Gran Corsa (built in Italy) is still FS $725

[Gsinill]

Just out of curiosity: why would that be?

Originally Posted by cnighbor1

If built in Italy I would go sans any chrome...

[OtayBW]

Originally Posted by Jerrous

Fortunately or unfortunately, all questions regarding the frame are theoretical. I think now it just needs chrome and paint. I'm happy that the FD tab is brazed on for looks. It's clean and simple. I'm not 100% sure that it will accommodate a compact as well, but that doesn't bother me too much. How serious is the filing business if I had to have it? Would it be a cruel, ugly thing to do to a beautiful frame? The state I live in is pretty flat and I am in decent shape. My current bike is a hybrid triple 26/36/48, 11-25. I almost never go into the smallest crank. Even on steep hills, I find it more comfortable to pedal in higher gears than I have to. I admittedly know very little about gearing, but my calculations suggest that if I wanted to be cautious a standard 39/53, 12-27 would basically be comparable to the way I ride now. Is that correct? There is also a 12-29 available for the Athena group I want, but I guess these cassettes with larger ranges are going to sacrifice some comfy gears in between. One resource suggests that all other factors being equal the difference between low gears on a standard versus a compact is about 23%. I take this to mean that difficult hills are almost 25% more difficult with a standard crankset. That sounds like a large number, but I don't know if it is really that significant. I'm trying to think of these extreme scenarios. For instance, I decide I want to bike through the Rockies. If I decided to bike through the Alps, couldn't I just swap cassettes and have about the same benefit offered by a compact? From what I understand, compacts are quite popular now, but I have this kind of stubborn faith that the word "standard" is not going to make most hills feel like the Zoncolon. Can someone confirm that it's not uncommon or a herculean feat to climb with a standard crankset, particularly for a regular rider at about 170lbs?

The Milanese builder I am working with does not speak a word of English as far as I know, but his hand gestures are excellent. I had to consult with a few intermediaries and translators in order to place the preferences. Although communication isn't easy, I'm confident I'll be getting a quality frame. The guy basically measured every joint in my body and even took my foot size. He built bikes for Benotto pros back in the day.

Sounds to me like you're overthinking this quite a bit. Based on your description of the local flat terrain and your fitness, I'd say you'd be more than fine with a standard crankset and a 12-27. The best advice I can give is to settle on something reasonable and then spend some time riding and getting to know what works for you in your conditions. You will answer your own questions pretty quickly, and no one but you can know what is the best course to take. If something is not working for you, then it is no problem to change. If you want to ride the Alps or Rockies, you will know what you need only after you gain some time in the saddle with what you've got. That may be a new cassette, or going to a compact - or both. Seems to me to be to early to make that decision right now.