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  #16  
Old 10-25-2024, 09:51 AM
ColonelJLloyd ColonelJLloyd is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Louisville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowPokePete View Post
I've tried to true a rotor with the Park tool.

Yes, you can make it better, but hard to make good as new.

Why not just get a new rotor?

SPP
I just don't agree here. I've had to do minimal truing, but it was very easy. Seems a shame to toss a rotor with lots/all of it's useful like, especially when it retails for >$85.

I have this Jagwire tool. It's been great. https://www.treefortbikes.com/Jagwir...ake-Multi-Tool


Last edited by ColonelJLloyd; 10-25-2024 at 09:55 AM.
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  #17  
Old 10-25-2024, 11:21 AM
deluz deluz is offline
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I originally built the bike from frameset myself.
The internal routing is really no big deal, you just thread the brake hose through the fork and it comes out a hole in the steerer tube and then out the top of the head tube. I did not use internal routed bars so that was not an issue. I don't see it as much extra work. The fork was replaced as "goodwill".
I had no experience with the Specialized expander plug and instructions were scarce and torque values changed on the fly. I take some blame since I continued to hammer down on the lower wedge, but I don't understand why it did not free up when I first hit the bolt. I suspect it was already stuck since the red aluminum tube part came out easily before I even started hitting the bolt. In any case I look at it as getting a new fork for 1/2 price considering the $265 charge and I am over it. Disc tool is due today and I will be watching some videos, but I am thinking I should inform the shop in case I can't get it straight enough.
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  #18  
Old 10-25-2024, 12:13 PM
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Hilltopperny Hilltopperny is offline
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Internal routing on a fork shouldn't cost $265 IMHO, it's pretty easy to do. Routing through the entire frame is a different story, but it is also dependent on the shop and area you live in.

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  #19  
Old 10-25-2024, 09:29 PM
rothwem rothwem is offline
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You guys and your fancy tools. Am I the only person out there that straightens their rotors out with their thumbs? I usually wash my hands first, if that makes any difference to you.
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  #20  
Old 10-26-2024, 10:59 AM
irideti irideti is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2008
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My last 4 Shimano rotors - 2 old style DA/XTR and 2 new style DA all required truing out of box. 1 of them was really bad that took me a while to get it right. Shimano can definitely do better
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  #21  
Old 10-26-2024, 11:52 AM
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Applesauce Applesauce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilltopperny View Post
Internal routing on a fork shouldn't cost $265 IMHO, it's pretty easy to do. Routing through the entire frame is a different story, but it is also dependent on the shop and area you live in.

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I’ve worked on several bikes- a Rodeo Labs comes to mind - where the fork was well harder than the rest of the bike. Not saying that’s necessarily the case here, I dunno, I haven’t worked on one of these Specializedses. Just saying, when it’s a super cramped space to get a hose through, it’s often much harder than getting it through a down tube where there’s room to work.
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  #22  
Old 10-26-2024, 11:57 AM
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Hilltopperny Hilltopperny is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Applesauce View Post
I’ve worked on several bikes- a Rodeo Labs comes to mind - where the fork was well harder than the rest of the bike. Not saying that’s necessarily the case here, I dunno, I haven’t worked on one of these Specializedses. Just saying, when it’s a super cramped space to get a hose through, it’s often much harder than getting it through a down tube where there’s room to work.
I have done quite a few and never run into a fork where it was much of an effort to feed one line through. Getting it through the down tube isn't typically as easy depending on where it enters the frame and exits in the seat stay IME. I have not put a Rodeo Labs fork on, but have done a bunch of others and they haven't taken much effort, but I'm sure those exist as well.
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  #23  
Old 10-26-2024, 02:22 PM
deluz deluz is offline
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Got the tool from Amazon last night.
This morning I checked the rotor and there was no more rubbing noise.
But there was still some slight wobble.
I found it really difficult to pin point the spot but eventually did some slight adjustment. Also the pads do not seem centered, maybe an attempt by the mechanic to avoid the rubbing IDK. I might try to fix that but it is certainly rideable as is. Also noticed handlebars were slightly crooked.
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