OT: no heat to new dryer

[bigbill]

Originally Posted by Veloo

This is 100% on them to come and fix it asap.
Could be a bad circuit board for all you know and you're prob not set up to to probe it to figure out what's wrong anyway.

I tore my out of warranty dryer apart this year to replace a squealing tensioner pulley. Mechanically it's not rocket science but electronically could be a number of things.
But again, it's a day old so they need to get their asses over to your place and get it running. You paid enough money for them.

Unfortunately I've heard many people (including repair guys) that Samsung and LG appliances are very poor quality.

About six years ago, when my Samsung dryer was only eleven years old, I replaced the drum rollers, which look like inline skate wheels, as well as the drive belt. The drive belt was fine, but you have to take the old one off to get the drum out, and they're cheap, so you might as well install a new one. I used a youtube video to disassemble and reassemble, taking the time to take all the internal ducting apart to clean out lint. When I put it all back together, it was basically new, and it's been trouble free and quiet since.

[robt57]

Originally Posted by unterhausen

I would check that both sides of the circuit are hot, but some people probably shouldn't.

This.


Is it 220w electric dryer? Did not see in thread [but only breezed thru]. Assumed this as mention for loosing 1/2 the main prior.

Was the new dryer direct plug in to same plug as old? I ask that as possible new plug not connect correctly. Or I've seen non electrician installers just hack a 4 blade plug to get it to fit and drop one of the 220 wires.

Also I've seen new dryer connected to old circuit with a new pigtail matching old plug. Often the new 30AMP unit gets plugged into a 40AMP circuit. This needs to be checked also.

It is possible 1/2 the 220 breaker got killed from your 1/2 outage. In my case when this happened it was 1/2 the main that killed.

Also seen non electricians knock a blank outta the panel cover in the main box and add a breaker down low that is only catching 1/2 the bus.

A multi meter to check the wall plug is properly live and connected in correct fashion be good starting point.

[C40_guy]

Originally Posted by VC Slim

The cleaner guy found that the vent was packed full of lint after 35 years of neglect. He recommended cleaning every two years. Dryer works great now.

Cleaning the dryer vent should be an annual exercise, at minimum. At minimum, it will keep your dryer working optimally. Potentially, it could avoid a house fire.

Easy enough to do, in many cases. Gent a cleaning tool with an extension that fits on a drill, will take about 10 minutes, including the shower beer afterwards.

[C40_guy]

Originally Posted by Veloo

Unfortunately I've heard many people (including repair guys) that Samsung and LG appliances are very poor quality.

Maytag, Whirlpool or GE appliances for me, only. I've heard too many horror stories of LG and Samsung appliances...refrigerators, washers, dryers...

[KonaSS]

My current house came with a relatively new Samsung washer and dryer. I have already sunk too much repair money in both. Next time one of them needs a repair - getting a new set.

My repair guy says the same thing about Samsung. Will never buy one of their appliances.

[C40_guy]

When we bought our house eight years ago we were left reasonably new LG washers and dryers.

The washer has developed a crack in the top of the case, which will eventually cause the lid to misalign and fail.

I'm not spending a dime on this setup.

Of course, getting eight plus years of of the two wasn't bad...but...

[AngryScientist]

Most big companies now have aggressive goals to maximize profits and minimize expenses. Quality is the obvious victim. As long as it looks good in the showroom, and takes good "lifestyle" pictures for the website, the products will sell. It's the consumer's problem when they break down in short order.

As for the OP, I have no idea why anyone is advising anything other than call the company that just installed it.

OP, please do come back and tell us what happened.

[Cat3roadracer]

Good news.

Neighbor across the street is a PE, electrical.

Brought over his volt meter, 220 on one side of the outlet, 85 on the other.

Over to the breaker box. Right side 220, left side 85.

Breaker replaced. All operating correctly.

All very interesting to me.

Thanks for all the comments.

Dave

[jds108]

Originally Posted by Cat3roadracer

Brought over his volt meter, 220 on one side of the outlet, 85 on the other.

Over to the breaker box. Right side 220, left side 85.

Breaker replaced. All operating correctly.
Dave

Interesting, I didn't know that was possible.

[Veloo]

Glad you're back up and running.
Always good to have friends with tools and knowledge.

And I find that interesting as well. Good to have the reference for the future.

[C40_guy]

Originally Posted by Cat3roadracer

Good news.

...

Breaker replaced. All operating correctly.

Yay!

[cnighbor1]

When the power was cut off and then restored it blew out something in dryer.
Charles

[Peter P.]

Originally Posted by Cat3roadracer

...

Brought over his volt meter, 220 on one side of the outlet, 85 on the other.

Over to the breaker box. Right side 220, left side 85.

Breaker replaced. All operating correctly...

Dave

Something similar happened to me recently.

My iMac crapped out, or so it seemed-it was dead but my stereo on the other side of the room worked. I actually bought a new iMac same day and when I got home, things didn't seem right. Long story short, my row of condos lost one leg of the 220V and the way the condos were wired, one side of each condo got 120V and the other half got the other leg.

The utility company had the bad leg replaced by a generator until they could repair the underground wiring fault which took a few days. I returned the iMac to the Apple store; never opened the box, and now I have a better understanding of how houses are wired for AC.

[unterhausen]

I would just like to claim my prize for troubleshooting this over the internet and saving OP a trip from the dealer.

Originally Posted by jds108

Interesting, I didn't know that was possible.

When there is a no-power condition after a power outage, it's not unusual for the outage to cause a failed breaker. I was going to suggest that earlier, but OP never gave any indication he was qualified to test for a bad breaker. Classic symptoms, there really wasn't much else to go wrong.

[robt57]

Originally Posted by unterhausen

I would just like to claim my prize for troubleshooting this over the internet and saving OP a trip from the dealer.


When there is a no-power condition after a power outage, it's not unusual for the outage to cause a failed breaker. I was going to suggest that earlier, but OP never gave any indication he was qualified to test for a bad breaker. Classic symptoms, there really wasn't much else to go wrong.

Yep, as in my long winded possibility post.