#16
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To the OP, curious how tall you are. I also noticed the stack and reach numbers and based on your saddle height you have really long arms and maybe torso? I use the same numbers on my road and gravel bike for stack and reach and I'm 172ish cm tall. My saddle height is always set around 69.3 cm and saddle to bar drop is about 4-5 cm. I know this doesn't tell the whole story but your numbers seem even more extreme than mine by an appreciable amount. Seems like you are going to have be in a pretty aggressive position relative to your height which you may or may not find you like for gravel riding. Not sure you'd find a bike you could rent to get your numbers but might be worth trying before having a custom frame made and then finding out you hate the position.
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Kirk MRB, Crux, Wilier Filante & Top Fuel. |
#17
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The geometry of the gravel bike copies over my current road bike set up (is that sufficient? or I need to search for a gravel bike with that geometry?). What I mean is that the saddle to handlebar reach on my road bike is the same as shown in the geometry and the stack is the same as well. The only difference is that reach is 378mm on my road bike + 120mm stem while it is 403mm reach + 100mm stem on the "longer" version of gravel bike. I honestly have been surprised by how aggressive my position is but I haven't felt major discomfort on ~4hrs road rides. Not sure if that is of any value? Do you think I should still consider going less aggressive? I am planning to do more 5-6 hrs ride this summer to make sure there is no problem but I feel like it's hard with really long rides to know if some soreness is just inevitable or indicative of wrong-fit? For the records, though I have felt some soreness on my back at times during my 4-6 hours ride, the sensation goes away if I just get off of the saddle and stretch for a couple seconds and I have never finished a ride with back pain. Perfect! Yeah, I should just stick with ultegra. I have never used Rotor crankset before so good to know about the shifting experience. I was just on a weight-weenie mode for the past couple days looking at Rotor but I don't think it's worth the $500-600 extra. |
#18
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__________________
Kirk MRB, Crux, Wilier Filante & Top Fuel. |
#19
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Hey if it works then it works. You are very flexible and/or have a long torso and arms. Everyone is different, so getting a bike fit and custom bike is exactly why its so cool that everyone can be different and have a bike that works for them. Just wanted to make sure the outlier number(reach) was pointed out. Sounds like its on purpose so cool. |
#20
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#21
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#22
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I run 40c Conti Terra Speed tires. The bike is exactly what I was going for. Lots of road sectors where I'm at to get to the gravel. Most of the chunky stuff isn't terribly long in duration and the bike handles it just fine. Depending on the route 70ish miles or so I'll bring a small CamelBak and 2 bottles, never have to stop. Had a DT cage on my checkpoint, never liked it, a stainless Arundel cage couldn't hang on to a bottle when things got rowdy.
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#23
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#24
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__________________
Kirk MRB, Crux, Wilier Filante & Top Fuel. |
#25
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55cm is a lot of top tube for somebody of your height. And as others have said, that headtube is quite short for a tt of that length (applies to both of your drawings). This could be the correct TT + HT dimensions for you, impossible to know. I'm 5'10" (178cm) and ride 55 or 56 TT bikes. (and one with a 57 TT and a shorter stem which feels fine)
It sounds like you're able to get long and low and if that's the case, then perhaps it's spot on! Comparing the ride between the two drawings - I don't see a whole lot of difference there. I think most folks couldn't differentiate a 71.7 vs 72 degree steerer, at least I don't think I would. With tires that big, I'd suggest you think about lowering the BB a little bit. |
#26
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Do you think I should consider 78mm to 80mm BB drop? |
#27
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I'm about the same size.. I pick #2 I think bigger front center and shorter stem works better for off road.
some thoughts, I like a bit more stack on the gravel bike to look around on trails. If you're super flexible then probably not an issue, but if you get into more rugged terrain it may help. Even if you think you'll be running 35-38 try to design with 45-50 clearance, I continue to get wider. (went from 35 to 43 on 700c and have 47-2.1 on 650) there's not much of a penalty in my opinion with the quality of tires now. Finally get some fender mounts, makes my winter road riding better! |
#28
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#29
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mine's probably 25mm higher stack and about 1/2 that in reach shorter overall. I can fit my 43 GKSS under fenders (I hate "swamp butt" )
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#30
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Either of these geometries looks fine for a road-biased gravel bike. 72…71.7…fine. A roomier front center is useful on a bike this size.
There is a lot to like with T47 because a lot of nice cranks have 30mm spindle. I like a gravel fit that is a bit less long and low than a road bike, but you do you. |
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