#16
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I wouldn't worry about a mm or two in stack change. Once you run a lower pressure in the wider tire in front, it's probably all a wash anyway. |
#17
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I have aesthetic objections but I think they're probably dumb.
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#18
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Yup!! This was always the way when I raced in the 90’s
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#19
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Don't just go wider, go more aggressive. I run a larger and more aggressive front tire and a faster rolling rear tire. Control can trump pure rolling resistance.
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#20
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#21
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Quote:
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#22
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Better examples:
https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en-US/bikes/hightower https://yeticycles.com/bikes/sb160/buy etc. 2.5 F / 2.4 R is pretty standard for long travel builds. One of the things that I've learned on the Paceline is that 2.5mm really, really matters sometimes |
#23
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I was running Gravelking X1 45's and got puncture in rear. Only tire I had on hand to replace it was a Tufo Speedero 40. Thought it would be temporary, but to be honest the combo works really well for the mixed terrain I like to ride.
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#24
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Tell me you don't ride MTBs without telling me you don't ride MTBs....
And yes, 0.05 width on paper, but also a perceptible volume difference for those who make both sizes. (caveat being, within the same mfg; they all do their own thing) Last edited by rice rocket; Yesterday at 01:27 PM. |
#25
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this. I've found that the rear tire wears quickly no matter what and it ends up looking smooth no matter what tire you start with.
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