Does my Serotta fit?

[pbarry]

Originally Posted by jlwdm

You need to get your saddle in the correct position relative to the cranks. Do not move the saddle to shorten the reach. If the reach is too long within a normal stem length range and proper bars then get rid of the bike.

If the saddle is too far back then a post with less setback is appropriate.

Jeff

+1
Well said.

Stock Serotta frames have slacker seat tube angles than most any track bike, even in smaller sizes. Get your setback, (saddle tip plumb line to BB distance, or plumb line to crank center measured to center of seat tube), figured out, and then see if the frame will work for you.

[FetchPro]

Originally Posted by parris

Can you ride the bike on the drops the way it's set up in the photo? It looks like the brifters are pretty far down on the bars which will tend to increase the effective reach.

Is the saddle to bar distance the same as on your track bikes? Also is it the same saddle as on the other bikes? Do you feel like there's a bunch of weight on your hands?

Haven't meaured the saddle to bar distances yet, I'll have to get back to you on that. The brifters were leveled by a friend who was very particular about where was "appropriate" for them to be positioned, which obviously isn't as important as functionality. They're all different saddles, but generally similar design with variant amounts of cushion, this one happens to be the most cushioned. I do feel like there is quite a bit of weight on my hands when I'm riding, I frequently change hand positioning due to fatigue, though that may be my own hands, carpel tunnel, etc.

[FetchPro]

Originally Posted by pbarry

+1
Well said.

Stock Serotta frames have slacker seat tube angles than most any track bike, even in smaller sizes. Get your setback, (saddle tip plumb line to BB distance, or plumb line to crank center measured to center of seat tube), figured out, and then see if the frame will work for you.

Thank you both, I believe this where I should start.

[FetchPro]

Originally Posted by jlwdm

You need to get your saddle in the correct position relative to the cranks. Do not move the saddle to shorten the reach. If the reach is too long within a normal stem length range and proper bars then get rid of the bike.

If the saddle is too far back then a post with less setback is appropriate.

Jeff

Thanks, I'll readjust and see what changes. This was very helpful, precisely the information I think I was looking for.

[Ti Designs]

No.

[TimD]

... substituting so-called 'compact' or 'short reach' bars, such as these:

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/f...r-wing-compact

Tim

[colker]

The way you set your bike, no racing road bike will fit.
Get a longer stem, 100mm, and lower the hbar by 1in. Then move back the saddle. Change your position on the bike and see how it goes.
Also, a shallow hbar is a better fit for a smaller bike.

[FetchPro]

So I've taken all of your suggestions to heart, readjusted the saddle and seatpost, lowered the stem, and am happy with the new fit. Will go for a solid ride this weekend and report back on the new configuration. Thank you all again for your help, it was invaluable. Worst case scenario, I'll have to sell it and get something that fits properly, but I'm hoping for greatness. Thanks again.

[Nooch]

Originally Posted by FetchPro

So I've taken all of your suggestions to heart, readjusted the saddle and seatpost, lowered the stem, and am happy with the new fit. Will go for a solid ride this weekend and report back on the new configuration. Thank you all again for your help, it was invaluable. Worst case scenario, I'll have to sell it and get something that fits properly, but I'm hoping for greatness. Thanks again.

and if you want to sell it, feel free to hit me up

[cmg]

on the bottom side of the crank (bottom bracket) you'll find a number, what is it? should be a CO_ _ or it could be CCO52 or something close, what is it? it sizes the frame. then we can look at a geometry chart and comment.

[FetchPro]

THe serial number is CO 50 047 it's a C III.

[FetchPro]

Originally Posted by Nooch

and if you want to sell it, feel free to hit me up

If I do sell it, for sure I'd love for it to go to someone on the forum.

[jmoore]

Originally Posted by TimD

... substituting so-called 'compact' or 'short reach' bars, such as these:

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/f...r-wing-compact

Tim

I'll second this. Shorter reach bars might help. Esp if they aren't an ergo abomination

[kingpin75s]

Originally Posted by jmoore

I'll second this. Shorter reach bars might help. Esp if they aren't an ergo abomination

Glad the suggestions so far are helping but ^ Third on the above. I think you could benefit from different bars as well.

I like fast bikes that are comfortable and even with the short HT, you should be able to get the bars in a good position as you are not showing tons of post. I prefer a steeper effective STA generally so I like straight posts and also prefer 110mm stems.

If I were refitting this and could make the fit work I would ideally go:

- Straight post (adjust for your set back needs if you have defined ones)
- 110mm stem with at least 10 degrees rise
- Cowbell 2 handlebars (42 or 44 - I like 44cm) or similar as recommended above
- Get the tops of the bars close to the top of the saddle

Creates nice flat top section if that change works for you and will give easy access to the drops which you will likely ride more.

YMMV and all that.

[cmg]

here's the geometry table for the CIII