What's in the Workstand ? ?

[Velocipede]

Originally Posted by Toddtwenty2

Nice pickup- it is getting tougher to find them in nice condition, and there are few equals aesthetically, imo.

Yeah, it's a nice kit. He didn't have cranks in my size but I can find a new one so I can make basically a new silver alloy kit. Which will be great for a classic frame I have on order.

[Velocipede]

Originally Posted by thirdgenbird

It’s making me think I should have gone record 12 without logos over chorus 12. Yes, petty as it sounds, logos were considered when I was deciding between the two. Granted, the alloy bits on chorus do feel at home on an aluminum cross frame.

Originally Posted by pdmtong

yes, call me Petty too... (not tom or richard though)

my C11 were all white since I bought the year after the all white SR11

the red just would not have worked given the frame paint and build.

I agree that color, even the graphics play a part in a complete bike build. I've done everything from painting, colored clear coats, removing badges, polishing, lots of things to components so they look better.

[thirdgenbird]

Originally Posted by Velocipede

I just picked up an almost new silver Chorus 10 kit from someone. He had them on show bikes and had 3 or 4 of them. I couldn't pass up the price.

Does he have a mint all-alloy chorus 10 rear derailleur?

[Velocipede]

Originally Posted by thirdgenbird

Does he have a mint all-alloy chorus 10 rear derailleur?

He did. All gone now. I got a partial group(no cranks) and some dealer in the UK bought everything else. The parts were from show bikes so they are basically brand new.

[gbcoupe]

Originally Posted by Toddtwenty2

I think you are good as long as you keep a positive attitude and a grin:


http://www.bikerecyclery.com/columbu...-head-50-x-20/

Now where have I seen that banner?

[cmbicycles]

Originally Posted by Velocipede

He did. All gone now. I got a partial group(no cranks) and some dealer in the UK bought everything else. The parts were from show bikes so they are basically brand new.

Dang, I just "need" some silver 10s shifters.

[El Chaba]

Originally Posted by Velocipede

I just picked up an almost new silver Chorus 10 kit from someone. He had them on show bikes and had 3 or 4 of them. I couldn't pass up the price.

These parts are getting quite scarce now in new or mint condition. The price are rising rapidly as quite a few people recognize that the Campy Record and Chorus parts from the 10 speed era are the finest that have ever been made for a ( racing) bicycle.

[jamesdak]

Today I need to put this beast I picked up yesterday in the stand to sort it out. If I can figure out how, LOL!

[mhespenheide]

Originally Posted by jamesdak

Today I need to put this beast I picked up yesterday in the stand to sort it out. If I can figure out how, LOL!

The hot tip by the handful of racers who used them was to get some kind of strap between the saddle and frame so that the saddle didn't bounce back up higher than it started. Which I can imagine would be disconcerting.

[El Chaba]

A few years back, I got these wheels with a French camper bike that I bought. They were well built, but became excess when I converted that bike for use with a more modern drivetrain built around 130 mm spacing. They were nicely built wheels, and I eventually decided to put them in use as a sturdy set of winter/harder use wheels for older vintage bikes. The rear wheel was very nicely built wrt to tension etc., but as you can see in the photo, the valve was in the wrong position wrt the spoke crossings. That drove me nuts, and I vowed to fix it some day. Some day came and I disassembled the wheel for rebuilding. I laced them up as I normally do and I guess my brain was a bit on autopilot....and I had the valve in a bad spot as well....I re-laced without much more thinking as I was distracted by some other things in the process and messed it up again. The third time, I decided that I had better think about it a bit and get it right....At this point I should mention that what makes it a bit difficult is that the drive side spoke holes are keyed to allow the replacement of a spoke without removing the freewheel. (Remember when companies actually put forth some design effort to allow for servicing of equipment?) So the spokes can only exit in one direction either head in or head out. I usually build wheels from left side to right and it is better to do it the opposite with these hubs so that you can start with your key spoke in the correct orientation. It is hard to get started, though as the spokes want to pop out of the keyhole while you are lacing and before they have any tension to hold them in place. I felt like I was being forced to rediscover some dark arts..Anyhow, as you can see, the job was completed and the wheels are back in service for winter use. BTW, the hubs are MaxiCar. They are fabulous and have a well deserved great reputation for durability and great engineering. As they are about 40 years old, I thought I would like to clean and relive them. I opened the front, marveling at the sealing mechanism only to discover plenty of clean grease. I never bothered with the rear. They are incredibly smooth and spin forever in the truing stand. In addition to allowing convenient spoke replacement, the spoke drilling on the DS back is slightly offset to allow for the use of one spoke size . It was a fun project.

[jamesdak]

Originally Posted by mhespenheide

The hot tip by the handful of racers who used them was to get some kind of strap between the saddle and frame so that the saddle didn't bounce back up higher than it started. Which I can imagine would be disconcerting.

I am curious about how this will feel. I know each time I get on one of my Y-Foils I feel some bounce for the first couple of hundred yards until my mind smooths out my spin. I imagine it will be more pronounced on this.

[Velocipede]

Originally Posted by jamesdak

Today I need to put this beast I picked up yesterday in the stand to sort it out. If I can figure out how, LOL!

Depending on the range of your stand clamp, you can lightly clamp it on the beam right in front of the saddle carriage. These beams are stupidly strong. You won't damage it. If you take the bottle cage off the upper downtube, you can clamp it there too. I built one of these years ago for a friend. It's still going strong. I replace the hardware kit every other year unless it's not used and it's been perfect. He's used it in RAAM and a ton of unsupported rides around the country. Including ones he's designed himself. Loves it. He has the tall saddle carriage which is an awesome upgrade. Make it fit much better and smooths out the ride a bit since the beam isn't at such an odd angle and so high. His is the alloy framed version.

[Velocipede]

Originally Posted by cmbicycles

Dang, I just "need" some silver 10s shifters.

I can still get them thru a place I know. But they aren't cheap is the problem. But they are NOS and come with the cables and housings.

[WNC rider]

,

[mhespenheide]

Originally Posted by WNC rider

Time to start building this, and finding out what parts I still need to source.

Dang. That's nice.