#1
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Cup and cone bearing adjust
I've always adjusted cup and cone bearings to just seated and maybe back off an eighth of a turn, then lock down, such that there is no play, or maybe just the very slightest bit of play. I guess if there is no play there is not telling if it is tighter than you want. In any case, I'm not convinced that installing the wheel in the dropouts tightens things further, in which case we want a little play. Also, might it be desirable to have just a bit of play when installed? Maybe that would facilitate the flow of grease. Also, I would bet that binding begins to occur exactly at the threshold of no-play in the adjustment. So if that is the case we want a tad of play.
Basically I'm talking myself into adjusting for more play here. Curious how others do this, and if practices vary. |
#2
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Quote:
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Chisholm's Custom Wheels Qui Si Parla Campagnolo |
#3
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I leave a tiny bit of play I can feel with my fingers on the axle while on the bench. It seems to translated into a free spinning wheel on the bike with no play felt when mounted with the QG tightened. If I can detect play in the wheel with it mounted (by grabbing the rim/tire and trying to move that) I always preload more.
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#4
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Same here.
As a matter of fact right now I have one bike with a very tight front QR… just too lazy to take it off and tighten the bearings ‘the right way’ another millimeter or so. It’s a 7810 Dura Ace hub… the more recent Campy cup & cone hub designs can be adjusted while on the bike… QR tightening has essentially no effect.
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Old... and in the way. |
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