Quote:
Originally Posted by benb
It's probably important to not conflate fit and geometry.
You can put your contact places in identical places on a MTB, Gravel Bike, and Road bike and yet they can have substantially different geometry. That might not be the perfect bike fit for all three but you can definitely do it and still have 3 different bikes.
All the other differences that don't affect your contact points still matter and make those bikes handle differently, handle different terrain differently, have different strengths and weaknesses, etc..
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This seems to me the heart of the matter in thinking about how to select the geometry for a gravel bike, and is the hardest part for non-experts to understand--both in terms of what actual effects of gravel geometry might have on the ride, and what we might actually want those characteristics to be.
I've gone the route of using 650b wheels with what to me are fattish tires (38 on the front, 42 on the back--the limits of the frame/form) on my endurance road to ride some gravel roads. Those roads have been fairly smooth. I've also done one gravel race on another endurance bike (my Synapse) fitted with 34 mm cross tires. So my experience is very limited. The race on my Cannondale did feel VERY sketchy on some quite rocky gravel, and I wouldn't want to do that again. The fatter tires on my Pursuit with 650b wheels feels pretty good on most of the gravel roads I would prefer to ride. And those wider tires make the bike feel more stable than the regular 30mm tires I have on the 700 wheels. But I have to keep those wider tires at about 30psi or more, or I get oversteer (is that the same as wheel flop?), which I find quite disconcerting.
All of which is to say that like Angry Scientist, I feel quite at sea in thinking about what kind of gravel bike geometry I should be looking for. I feel pretty confident that I want a bike with similar fit, which because I'm long-legged, means higher stack and shorter reach than most standard endurance or gravel geometry.