Sram 10-33 or 10-36? Your opinion is appreciated

[deluz]

Where I live (SoCal) there is every kind of terrain from very flat to very steep.
Currently running Shimano 50/34 with 11-34 (12 speed) on one bike and 11/32 (11 speed) on the other. I don't really notice much difference between the 11-32 and 11-34 but the 32 cog is definitely smoother. At one point I tried a 46/30 crankset. I found it did not help that much, at some point you just need to improve your hill climbing so that you are comfortable on the roads you ride.
I am in that process now after being out of shape and it is long and gradual especially at my age.

[gospastic]

Originally Posted by Roberto Yunge

Everyone has a different preference or taste for this I guess.
I`m running one bike with 46/33 and 10/33 and it has taken me a while to get used to it. I really really hate the jump from 28 to 33 when I`m using the little ring.
On the other hand, the smallish big ring is great for those not too long climbs that you can do entirely on the "big" ring. This would be even better with a 10-36 cassette.

I`m a climber, and I think I wouldn`t miss much the 14, and would prefer two 4 teeth jumps that one big 5 teeth one.

The jump from 13 to 15 is a bigger percentage difference than the jump from 28 to 33.

[Dave]

Originally Posted by gospastic

The jump from 13 to 15 is a bigger percentage difference than the jump from 28 to 33.

Virtually identical for all practical purposes. I use a 48/13 to travel at around 28 mph. The 48/15 is good for around 24. I don't need a 14 that badly.

[gospastic]

Originally Posted by Dave

Virtually identical for all practical purposes. I use a 48/13 to travel at around 28 mph. The 48/15 is good for around 24. I don't need a 14 that badly.

Not sure what you're saying, but okay.

[NHAero]

Originally Posted by gospastic

The jump from 13 to 15 is a bigger percentage difference than the jump from 28 to 33.

I'm not sure I agree.

15/13 = 1.154
33/28 = 1.179

[gospastic]

Oops, not percentages, but in terms of gear inches, 13 to 15 is bigger.

[ltwtsculler91]

Originally Posted by NHAero

I'm not sure I agree.

15/13 = 1.154
33/28 = 1.179

My experience has been that I am much more sensitive to gearing/effort/cadence at the speeds where I am in the 13/14/15 versus climbing when I'm switching between the 28 and 33. This is all based on riding style, and I know folks who don't mind, but that mid cassette is my sweet spot on rides so I like having more options there. It was a factor in me swapping from Shimano to SRAM with my 11speed stuff because the 11 speed SRAM stays tighter through the middle with a 16t in there. I miss it on the 12 speed, but with the smaller front ring it is less noticeable in terms of the jump than it was on 11speed.

[Spdntrxi]

My bike with SRAM red is my climbing bike... so at first I used the red 10-33 with a 48/35. Because I have some bumps like Mt Diablo in my immediate region I opted for the force 10-36 and I dont regret it. Now they have the RED 10-36 (E1) but I doubt I opt for that.

My other road bike has a 54/40 with a 11-34. Sustained climbing sucks with this bike.

[bianchi10]

Originally Posted by Spdntrxi

My bike with SRAM red is my climbing bike... so at first I used the red 10-33 with a 48/35. Because I have some bumps like Mt Diablo in my immediate region I opted for the force 10-36 and I dont regret it. Now they have the RED 10-36 (E1) but I doubt I opt for that.

My other road bike has a 54/40 with a 11-34. Sustained climbing sucks with this bike.

I was talking to a buddy from my bike shop today. He races, commutes and rides a ton. He is a strong rider. His response to all this was he would do a 48/35 adn 10/36 ALL DAY long over a 10/33. He said, "I've never once been on a climb or any degree and thought, this sucks because I'm too comfortable." It made good sense! I'm not unfit. I'm not weak. But if there was one thing in all the things of cycling I like the least, I would say it's climbing. Long steep climbs, I really don't like. I may not need the 36, but if I had it an did come to desire it, it would be there and probably be a God send.

A 48/35 and 10-33 will essentially be what I already have (50/34 and 10-30). I can totally continue to ride what I have and not be all that effected. However, there are some climbs where I've been maxed out and thought, "it would be really nice to have a couple extra gears, right now".

[Bob Ross]

Originally Posted by bianchi10

"I've never once been on a climb or any degree and thought, this sucks because I'm too comfortable."

That seems like a variation on the advice I once heard a well-respected cycling mentor offer when asked what gear one should use while climbing; he said "The easiest one you have! Why would you want to make it any harder than it has to be?"

And the problem I have with both of those pieces of advice is, they presume that discomfort and/or difficulty correlate to gear inches. Their assumption is that the lower the gear, the more comfortable/less difficult climbing will be

...to which I say, Bullschidt. There comes a point of diminishing returns where your cadence is either so high or your speed is so low that it's more uncomfortable to spin that super-low gear than it would be to upshift into a higher gear and pedal at a more reasonable cadence. Where that point is will be different for every individual rider...so the "correct" [sic] answer isn't always to get the bigger pie plate.

[bianchi10]

Originally Posted by Bob Ross

That seems like a variation on the advice I once heard a well-respected cycling mentor offer when asked what gear one should use while climbing; he said "The easiest one you have! Why would you want to make it any harder than it has to be?"

And the problem I have with both of those pieces of advice is, they presume that discomfort and/or difficulty correlate to gear inches. Their assumption is that the lower the gear, the more comfortable/less difficult climbing will be

...to which I say, Bullschidt. There comes a point of diminishing returns where your cadence is either so high or your speed is so low that it's more uncomfortable to spin that super-low gear than it would be to upshift into a higher gear and pedal at a more reasonable cadence. Where that point is will be different for every individual rider...so the "correct" [sic] answer isn't always to get the bigger pie plate.

That is a good point!

[Dave]

I reached the point with my 30/44 low gear that it really was barely practical to use, going 4.3 mph at 80 rpm. I didn't like it, but the 30/38 low gear on the next smaller sprocket was an improvement over my previous 30/36.

I've been riding my Cervelo Rouvida since May. It's 1x with a stock low gear of 46/44. That low gear has never really been needed on 12-13% grades unless it's used to ride slower and conserve battery on a very long and steep ride. I even bumped up the chain ring to a 48 to get the perfect 48/13 for pushing 28 mph. I'm sure that weighing 135 helps with the climbing and extending battery life.

[Hakkalugi]

Originally Posted by Bob Ross

There comes a point of diminishing returns where your cadence is either so high or your speed is so low that it's more uncomfortable to spin that super-low gear than it would be to upshift into a higher gear and pedal at a more reasonable cadence.

So if you’re spinning uncomfortably in the biggest cog, isn’t shifting to a smaller one an option? What if you’re grinding uncomfortably in the largest cog and wished you had a bigger one? Not every hill requires a granny gear, but when you need it, you need it. Hence the term “bail out gear”.