Play in Bora Ultra rear hub- help please

[tbike4]

This is a Bora Ultra rim brake wheel from what year I do not know. It has some minimal side to side play. I looked at the hub and it is a foreign object to me. I have adjusted my share of non Campaq hubs over the years. Eazy peezy.

I did not find the help I need in a Google search. Do I need to remove the cassette? I think I would.
Photo below.

[Philster]

Have you seen these diagrams of Campi hubs?

https://support.campagnolo.com/media...rt_C_Rev00.pdf

[Mark McM]

If you think other hubs are easy, then you should be able to do the Campy hubs in your sleep. Not only do you not have to remove the cassette, you don't even have to remove the wheel from the frame (in fact, it is better to adjust the bearings with the wheel in the frame and QR tightened).

On the left side of each wheel (front and rear) you'll find what looks like a split collar tightened by a screw. That split collar is the threaded bearing pre-load adjuster. Loosen the screw on the collar, then rotate the collar CW to the tighten the bearings or CCW to loosen the bearings. Tighten the bearings just enough to remove play. Then tighten the collar screw to lock the collar in place. It should just take a couple of minutes to adjust each hub.

[tbike4]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

If you think other hubs are easy, then you should be able to do the Campy hubs in your sleep. Not only do you not have to remove the cassette, you don't even have to remove the wheel from the frame (in fact, it is better to adjust the bearings with the wheel in the frame and QR tightened).

On the left side of each wheel (front and rear) you'll find what looks like a split collar tightened by a screw. That split collar is the threaded bearing pre-load adjuster. Loosen the screw on the collar, then rotate the collar CW to the tighten the bearings or CCW to loosen the bearings. Tighten the bearings just enough to remove play. Then tighten the collar screw to lock the collar in place. It should just take a couple of minutes to adjust each hub.

Thank you. That does sound like it could be done while sleeping.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

If you think other hubs are easy, then you should be able to do the Campy hubs in your sleep. Not only do you not have to remove the cassette, you don't even have to remove the wheel from the frame (in fact, it is better to adjust the bearings with the wheel in the frame and QR tightened).

On the left side of each wheel (front and rear) you'll find what looks like a split collar tightened by a screw. That split collar is the threaded bearing pre-load adjuster. Loosen the screw on the collar, then rotate the collar CW to the tighten the bearings or CCW to loosen the bearings. Tighten the bearings just enough to remove play. Then tighten the collar screw to lock the collar in place. It should just take a couple of minutes to adjust each hub.

2mm allen wrench...

[tbike4]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

2mm allen wrench...

Good to know. I have a couple of the 2mm allens which feel like they might break if you twisted it too hard. If you wanted to adjust the hub on the bike it looks like maybe this Park tool in the photo would be nice to have.

Opinion?

2 mm Sliding T-Handle Hex Wrench> https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...x-wrench-thh-2

I will ask Santa for this> https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...nch-set-ph-1-2

[AngryScientist]

If you dont already have them, ask Santa for a set of these. Best hex keys on the market and every bike tinkerer should have a set.

[tbike4]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

If you dont already have them, ask Santa for a set of these. Best hex keys on the market and every bike tinkerer should have a set.

I have requested from Santa. I love good tools.