Rear D touching spokes Tink tink tink tink

[redir]

Originally Posted by rowebr

Chiming in to second this comment. My Park DAG has paid for itself many times over, not just on my own bikes but for friends and neighbors as well.

For the OP, now that you've hopefully narrowed the issue down to wheel flex, have you checked for lateral play in that rear hub? Hold the rim by the rear brake bridge and try to move it back and forth towards and away from a seatstay. Any looseness or knocking in that side-to-side direction?

It doesn't feel like it's loose but I can definitely push it and the rim deflects even to the point where it touches the brake pads which I do have set fairly close. But I've definitely felt loose hubs and headsets and so on and it doesn't feel like that if you know what I mean.

Originally Posted by Lewis Moon

From the stupid human tricks department: check to see that your "over/under" on your spoke lacing is correct and also make sure one spoke didn't get drawn the wrong way through the hub (3 heads in a row on one side)

Just checked. They alternate one by one.

[redir]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

Have you checked the wheel dish? Maybe this wheel is over-dished to the right.

So compare it to the good wheel? I have another Zipp 303 that doesn't have a Powertap hub and currently has 9-speed on it but it is an 11-speed hub.

[MikeD]

I had this happen on a wheel that was laced with outside pulling spokes. Pedaling torque on such a laced wheel pulls the crossed point towards the derailleur.

Do you have that thin spacer installed between the cassette and the freewheel (check the manufacturer instructions for the hub and cassette, to make sure)? Is the low gear limit screw adjusted properly?

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by redir

So compare it to the good wheel? I have another Zipp 303 that doesn't have a Powertap hub and currently has 9-speed on it but it is an 11-speed hub.

The traditional way to check wheel dish is reversing the wheel in the drop outs. In other words, installing the wheel so that the cassette is on the left instead of the right. Measure the distance of the rim to the stays and/or the brake pads with the wheel installed normally and reversed. If the wheel is perfectly dished (rim is perfectly centered on the axle), then the rim should line up the same with the stays and brake pads whether it is installed normally or reversed. If the rim lines up differently, then the dishing is off-center. The error in the dish is half of the difference in the rim position between normal and reversed.

[dddd]

One thing that I often check for is how many turns that the lock ring can be tightened after it first finds engagement with the threads.

Even with alloy lock rings and freehub bodies, a full mere two turns is as good/sufficient as most installs that I have inspected. So if the lock ring can be tightened three turns, then a 1mm spacer (as supplied by Shimano with their 10s cassettes) would be a fix for your setup.

There are also longer-threaded lock rings that can be useful for certain fitments, so as long as cog spline engagement of the smallest cog remains at least a full 2mm, then perhaps a spacer can be added behind the cassette in cases where the threaded engagement would otherwise fall short of 2 full turns.

I don't like having less than two full turns of lock ring thread engagement, but I have worked on plenty of bikes where slightly less than two full turns was in play and nothing had fallen apart.

[redir]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

The traditional way to check wheel dish is reversing the wheel in the drop outs. In other words, installing the wheel so that the cassette is on the left instead of the right. Measure the distance of the rim to the stays and/or the brake pads with the wheel installed normally and reversed. If the wheel is perfectly dished (rim is perfectly centered on the axle), then the rim should line up the same with the stays and brake pads whether it is installed normally or reversed. If the rim lines up differently, then the dishing is off-center. The error in the dish is half of the difference in the rim position between normal and reversed.

I flipped the wheel around and the drive side was indeed a bit closer to the left (nondrive side) brake pad. Which makes sense since I gave the drive side spokes a half a turn and trued it up at first. After doing that though I didn't notice any space difference between the frame and the brake pads. But when I flipped the wheel around it was clearly off.

So I gave the non-drive side spokes a half turn and trued it up and guess what?

No more Tink tink tink in the spokes. And after doing that it's right in the middle of the brake pads.

I never did test the RD hangar because I don't have the tool but the logical conclusion here is that there was too much flex in the wheel and tightening up the spokes stiffened it up? I'm going with that anyway.

Thank you to all for your comments and suggestions.

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by redir

I never did test the RD hangar because I don't have the tool but the logical conclusion here is that there was too much flex in the wheel and tightening up the spokes stiffened it up? I'm going with that anyway.

Spoke tension doesn't affect wheels stiffness, so tightening the non-drive side spokes didn't make the wheel stiffer. But shifting the rim to the left means that the wheel has to flex further to the right before the derailleur contacts.

It's still a good idea to get the derailleur alignment checked.